Casablanca just celebrated 30 years open as a restaurant. The first celebrity chef it produced was Ana Sortun (of Oleana fame), and still pays homage with her signature Short Ribs appetizer. Ruth-Ann Adams took over the kitchen after honing her chops at Rialto – another Cambridge, Mediterranean mecca. She manages a consistent kitchen with little fan-fare. For better or worse, it conjures memories of other food experiences rather than creating its own.
The cocktails menu features a margarita with muddled sage. Finally, another use for the abundant sage in my garden! The medicinal earthiness of both the sage and tequila enhance the other without overpowering the fruity sweetness of the orange and pineapple juices.
The Mediterranean menu spans in flavors from Portugal to Israel. From Portugal, clam with sausages – a flavor combination that made its way to New England via New Bedford and Cape Cod. And to give the dish a New England flair it’s served with fried oysters. The briny clams reminded me of the best clam I ever tasted… standing ankle deep in Wellfleet harbor with Pat Woodbury, he dug into the sand to grab a few live clams. With a pocket knife, he pried them open and offered them up. They were still warm from the sun and salty from the bay water bath. No lemon or cocktail sauce necessary.
rice filling. The less familiar musabaha is a chunky style hummos, which I first tasted in the Arab markets in Jerusalem…
He quickly grabbed my hand and shook it, we had sealed the deal. Even though I know I overpaid, I had a wonderful morning of eating and drinking and talking. I also know that I couldn’t get these rugs in the US for less.
Alas, the Casablanca musabaha can’t compare to the memories of the first experience… and like the rest of the meal, it needed more salt.
Labels: restaurants
----- COMMENT: AUTHOR: Lydia (The Perfect Pantry) DATE:6/30/2008 09:49:00 AM Casablanca arrived in Harvard Square a few months after we moved to Boston, and for our first few years there, it was one of our favorite haunts. Sorry to hear that it has lost some of its sparkle. ----- --------