AUTHOR: Julia TITLE: Brick Oven Pizza at Home DATE: 3/29/2010 12:35:00 AM ----- BODY:
“Brick-oven” pizzas are revered because the brick bottomed ovens get screaming hot and retain heat very well. And, in fact, all pizza ovens are set at about 700F, some getting as hot as 800F. This high heat gets the crust extra-crispy, and prevents the toppings from sogging up the dough.

Getting a crispy crust at home is more challenging. Most ovens max out at 500F. Pizza stones mimic the pizza oven floor in that they absorb heat and will get that much hotter than the ambient air of the oven.

I don’t have a pizza stone, but still have a few tricks up my sleeve for getting a crispy crust:

The first, I pre-fry the dough in canola oil before topping and baking the pizza. During the baking process, the oil releases itself from the dough helping to further crisp the crust. This has been my default, but it does have a few drawbacks – mainly that it adds extra fat along with the extra step.

Lately, I’ve been baking my pizzas on the floor of the oven. This gives the crust direct, intense heat as opposed to the ambient heat of baking the pizza on a lower shelf. With this method, the crust crisps up in about 5 minutes. You can then move the pizza to a higher shelf to finish browning the toppings.


Pizza is a great way to use up left-overs. From last night’s dinner, I had some eggplant and smoked tomato coulis. With the addition of fresh mozzarella, I had a perfect dinner for both kids and adults!

There is no "perfect" recipe for pizza. It's really a matter of what you're in the mood for and what you have on hand. Here's my recipe for pizza dough.

Dough
1 cup water
1 tsp. yeast
2 cups bread flour
1/2 cup semolina
2 tbs. olive oil
1 ½ tsp salt
1/2 tsp. sugar

1. Heat water to 105F. Dissolve yeast in water. In a separate bowl, combine flour, semolina, salt and sugar.

2. Using a dough hook, combine flours, yeasted water and olive oil. Knead for 10 minutes until the dough is smooth and elastic. Place dough in oiled bowl, cover with plastic and let rise in warm place until doubled, about 1 hour. Punch down and form into pizza rounds.

Place dough on cookie sheet before topping.








Labels: , , ,

----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous Lydia (The Perfect Pantry) DATE:3/29/2010 07:22:00 PM Great technique, and that is one gorgeous crust! Also much less messy than sliding dough on cornmeal onto a pizza stone. Somehow the pizza gets there, but the cornmeal goes all over the place! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger T.W. Barritt at Culinary Types DATE:3/29/2010 11:31:00 PM I like the idea of baking on the bottom of the oven - like Lydia, I usually end up with cornmeal everywhere. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger PG DATE:3/31/2010 12:41:00 AM Good tips. I'm looking for a pizza stone. We make calzones pretty regularly, but don't have anything appropriately shaped for a regular pizza. ----- -------- AUTHOR: Julia TITLE: Breaking Out Summer (Recipe: Eggplant Portobello Torta) DATE: 12/04/2009 11:27:00 AM ----- BODY:

When winter seems interminable, usually around the beginning of February, I break into my stash of jarred tomatoes. The red jewels of the summer garden were canned at their peak of flavor. And when I need a dose of sunshine, the bright, sweet acidity exudes summer warmth.

In typical years, I can about 2 dozen jars. After I give a few out as gifts, I ration myself – one or two jars a month. I try to hold off as long as I can before I start digging in so that during the coldest days, I know I’ll have an antidote to dreary New England winters.

This year, I had a canning-palooza, with a record 72 jars! I’ve become a little reckless. Yes, I know, winter doesn’t officially start until December 21st. But last night, I opened the first two jars.

I pureed a can of smoked tomatoes with a can of tomato sauce for a simple, yet flavorful sauce to grilled leg of lamb. A “Portobello” napoleon rounded out the plate.



Roast Leg of Lamb with Eggplant Portobello Torta and Smoked Tomato Coulis
Serves 4
4 portobellos, caps only
1 shallot, diced
2 cloves garlic, sliced
2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
2 tablespoons olive oil (optional)
1 tablespoon fresh chopped thyme
1 eggplant
1/4 cup flour
1 egg mixed with ¼ cup water
1 cup bread crumbs
1 can smoked tomatoes
Canola/olive oil mix for cooking

Marinade
½ cup extra virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon ground cumin
½ teaspoon ground coriander
½ bunch fresh sage, chopped
½ bunch fresh thyme, chopped
½ bunch scallions, green and white parts, chopped.
1 small onion, peeled and finely chopped
3 cloves garlic, chopped

Salt and pepper, to taste

1. Make the marinade: Heat olive oil over medium heat. Add onions and garlic. Cook until soft, about 5 minutes. Add herbs and spices, and cook about 2 minutes more, until they are fragrant. Let marinade cool. Add lamb, and marinate overnight.
2. Put mushrooms in a single layer on a baking sheet, fins up.
3. Sprinkle with garlic, shallots, vinegar, oil, and thyme.
4. Season with salt and pepper.


5. Roast in 400F oven for 15 minutes, or until tender.


6. Cut the eggplant on a bias into at least 4 slices. Season eggplant with a generous sprinkling of salt. Let sit for 20 minutes. Rub off excess salt off and pat dry.
7. Bread the eggplant: use three dishes, one for flour, one for the egg, and one for the bread crumbs. Coat with flour, then dip in the egg mixture and finally coat with bread crumbs.
8. Heat a skillet over medium-high heat. Add the oil to coat the bottom of the pan, by ¼ inch. Fry eggplant for 4 minutes on each side or until golden brown and crispy. Let the eggplant drain on a paper towel.
9. Puree tomatoes. Warm in a sauce pan over medium heat. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper as desired.
10. Preheat oven to 425F.
11. Heat a large skillet over high heat. Sear lamb on all sides until brown
12. Roast lamb for 15 minutes, or until cooked to desired doneness.
13. Make a “sandwich” with the eggplant, cheese and Roasted Portobellos.
14. Bake at 400F until the cheese is melted.
15. Meanwhile, slice lamb.
16. Garnish with sandwich, tomato coulis and broccoli.


Labels: , ,

----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Fresh Local and Best DATE:12/04/2009 08:14:00 PM Wow! 72 jars! That is impressive! It's great to see the fruits of your harvest all year long. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous noble pig DATE:12/06/2009 12:06:00 AM Those mushrooms are making my mouth water. And the tomato sauce, heaven at this time of year. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Melissa DATE:12/06/2009 10:04:00 PM Okay, now I envy YOU. I forgot about the palooza and how many jars you had this year. Lucky lady. The only summery thing I still have in my freezer is one bag of Hatch chiles. But I realized just from having those saved that it really is nice to have summer in December. Maybe next summer I can find a partner... ----- -------- AUTHOR: Julia TITLE: Eggplant Extravaganza (recipe: baba ganoush) DATE: 8/31/2009 08:28:00 AM ----- BODY:

Did you know that blackening the skin of eggplant over an open flame gives the meat a smoky flavor? And did you know that if you don’t prick little holes in the skin, the steam inside builds up and creates a big explosion?

Not that this has *ever* happened to me. I’ve only read about it. Really.

And that old-wives tale about salting the eggplant before cooking to remove the bitterness... For some varieties (like the big American eggplants) this is important. The smaller Asian varieties don't have the bitterness. Nonetheless, it's a crucial step for any recipe that calls for frying eggplant slices. The salting prevents the eggplant from absorbing the oil like a sponge. You'll use the less oil and the eggplant will be less greasy. Win-win, if you ask me.

___________________
I returned from the farm with a car-load of tomatoes and more produce to enjoy at home, including several varieties of eggplant. And much to my (pleasant) surprise, my garden had not wilted in the heat, and in fact I had a bumper crop of eggplant.

The fastest way to process (and preserve) the eggplant was to make baba ganoush and an eggplant chutney.

For the eggplant chutney, (after salting the slices) I fried it in a blend of canola and olive oils until very dark brown.
I chopped it up, tossed it with lemon and basil. Depending on your taste, it could use an extra shot of salt and pepper.

Baba Ganoush is a traditional Middle Eastern dip made with eggplant and sesame seed paste (tahini). Typically, it's served with pita. At Oleana, they garnish braised shortribs with it.

Baba Ganoush
Traditionally, raw garlic is added to the dip, but I prefer the flavor of roasted. If you like raw garlic, reduce the quantity to one clove.

4 cloves garlic
1 tablespoon olive oil
4 medium eggplant
2 tablespoons tahini
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
1 lemon, juiced
salt and pepper
parsley or scallions for garnish

1. Prick whole eggplant with a fork. Place directly over a fire...


...and cook until blackened on all sides and the flesh is tender. Let cool.
2. In a piece of tin-foil, wrap up the garlic and olive oil. Roast in 350 oven for 30 minutes, or until the garlic is soft and golden brown.
2. Peel the black skin away and discard.
3. Put the eggplant pulp, tahini, cumin, garlic and lemon juice in a food processor. Blend until smooth. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
4. Garnish with scallions or parsley

Labels: ,

----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Katie DATE:8/31/2009 09:18:00 AM Wow, I had no idea that salting affects the amount of oil absorbed. That makes it worth the extra effort! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous noble pig DATE:8/31/2009 11:03:00 AM I miss eggplant. My husband is allergic so it never enters our home. Boo-hoo! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger T.W. Barritt at Culinary Types DATE:8/31/2009 01:36:00 PM Oh, I wish I had a gas flame and not an electric stove. It's awfully hard to get a smokey flavor from one of those radiant coils! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Katie DATE:8/31/2009 08:05:00 PM Yep, you converted me. I wanted some simple grilled eggplant for dinner, but I made sure to leave time for salting. I ended up using about half the amount of oil that I usually need. I'm so glad I learned that it's not just to get rid of bitterness! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Valerie Harrison (bellini) DATE:9/02/2009 08:22:00 AM This is one of my favourite dips or spreads. Excellent tips on eggplant too. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous ntsc DATE:9/02/2009 11:38:00 AM My father did not like egg-plant so it was never served. He also didn't like steak and neither parent liked rare meat.

I learned about rare/medium-rare beef in my teens, but my wife has been working for years to get me to eat egg plant. I do like it grilled and something she calls egg-plant caviar. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Julia DATE:9/02/2009 11:45:00 AM Katie -- I'm glad your experiments proved this theory. I tried it both ways this week, too, and was amazed at the difference.

noble pig -- It's funny how controversial it is. Maybe it's a textural thing?

T.W. -- Do you have a charcoal grill? That would work too.

Bellini Valli -- the smokiness makes it addictive!

ntsc -- eggplant caviar is very similar to baba ganoush. So if you like that, this recipe may be worth a try. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger adele DATE:9/03/2009 08:35:00 AM My blog list has been reading my mind. I have two eggplants from a friend's CSA in my fridge, and I was just thinking baba ganoush... ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger grace DATE:9/03/2009 11:35:00 AM first of all, i just get a kick out of saying baba ganoush. i also enjoy eating it, and i appreciate your insight into the process of making it! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Lori Lynn DATE:9/06/2009 06:24:00 PM I'm a fan.

Love the idea of eggplant chutney, got to try that one!
LL ----- -------- AUTHOR: Julia TITLE: The Best of Times, The Worst of Times DATE: 8/17/2009 08:39:00 AM ----- BODY:
Early in the summer I began noticing worms in the soil. I knew the soil started out in excellent condition, 3 summers ago, when I imported 5 tons of compost, but worried that I hadn’t sufficiently amended the soil in the subsequent seasons. The worms told me that I was doing okay.

Over the years, I have tried and given up on growing heirloom tomatoes. I’m lucky if I harvest one tomato at the end of September. Despite my track-record, I plant at least one heirloom every year. This year, I planted three. And so far, I’ve had 10 tomatoes! It must be the worms.

The threat of blight still looms. I regularly trim back any yellow spotted leaves that show signs of disease. The foliage is thinning, but the tomatoes stalks are heavy with fruit.


And I’m tense. Because, in fact, they are too heavy. The plants are drooping, bending the stalks despite all my efforts to stake them.
I wonder if the tomatoes will get the required nutrients and energy from the plant with a weakened structure.

The tomatoes still ripen on the vine (i.e. they don’t rot), so I continue to enjoy them: lots of tomato/mayo sandwiches and a few tomato sauces.


Mediterranean Eggplant and Tomatoes
With the glut of eggplant and tomatoes, I made a Mediterranean style dish. With basil, it takes an Italian bent and pairs beautifully with grilled steak and potatoes. With dill, the Turkish inspiration takes over making it perfect with mackerel and basmati rice. The dill is in short supply and I’m reserving it for pickles. I decided to lean Italian.
¼ cup plain oil
5 Japanese eggplants, sliced in half lengthwise
2 tablespoons currants or raisins
2 tablespoons pine nuts or pistachios
1 tablespoon butter
¼ cup white wine
1 shallot, peeled and diced
1 large garlic clove, peeled and diced
2 cups diced tomatoes – whatever you have in your garden
2 tablespoons fresh basil or 1 tablespoon fresh dill
Salt and pepper to taste

1. In a large skillet heat oil over high heat. Add eggplant to pan, cut side down, and cook until a deep brown. Flip over and cook on the other side until the eggplant is soft, about 1 more minute. It’s important to cook the eggplant in a single layer, so you may need to cook them in batches. Drain on a paper towel and season with salt.

2. When eggplants are cooked, pour off the oil from the pan. Return the pan to a medium heat. Add the pine nuts and raisins and cook for 2 minutes, stirring constantly, or just until the pine nuts start to brown. Remove from heat and drain.

3. Wipe the pan clean, return to medium high heat, and add the butter. When the butter melts and shallots and garlic. Cook for 5 minutes, or until soft. Add the wine and reduce. Add the tomatoes. Cook until the tomatoes have released their liquid and start to thicken. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

4. Just before serving, stir in the fresh herbs.

When serving, sprinkle toasted pine nuts and currants on top.

Labels: , , ,

----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger T.W. Barritt at Culinary Types DATE:8/17/2009 10:37:00 AM This recipe sounds so good - I've been really happy with the Japanese eggplants I've been getting from the farm, and this really showcases them. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Alanna Kellogg DATE:8/23/2009 08:22:00 PM This whole blight thing sure is putting a crimp in tomato enjoyment this year - it makes me realize, once again, how much risk we allow when we rely on food from one source, whether one variety or one geography. ----- -------- AUTHOR: Julia TITLE: Garden Updates and Confessions DATE: 8/25/2008 10:19:00 AM ----- BODY:
Each morning, while savouring my first cup of coffee, I inspect the garden for what’s ready or near ready to harvest. It’s been an exciting week: 3 Chinese eggplants, 2 Italian eggplants, 5 cucumbers, 4 tomatoes, 3 kohlrabi and lots of herbs. I had wanted to take a photo of the bounty, but I’ve been eating everything just as quickly as I harvest. The cucumbers are surprisingly sweet. Cut in half or sticks, they make a great snack. I’ve sliced tomatoes with the intention of making a sandwich, but with a little sprinkle of salt, I can’t get them from the cutting board to a plate without “tasting” them first. Needless to say, I have yet to make a sandwich or collect enough cucumbers to make pickles.

The eggplant is too bountiful to consume on my own. On Thursday evening, my neighbors (who have since returned from vacation and reclaimed their CSA subscription) and I combined the corn from their farm share with my eggplant for a Japanese-inspired vegetable feast: Miso-Rubbed Grilled Eggplant and Chile Glazed (think Spicy Tuna Roll sauce) Corn on the Cob.

Last week, in a fit of discouragement, I started yanking up the non-zucchini producing zucchini plants to make room for my fall lettuces and broccoli raab. As I inspected the plants for squash blossoms that would be worth saving, I discovered that I had been premature: the plants had *finally* started to produce fruit. I immediately stopped, and now have two or three zucchini-ettes well on their way to become a full-grown zucchinis.

Miso-Rubbed Grilled Eggplant
(inspired by Nobu)

3 Japanese Eggplant, sliced in half lengthwise
3 cloves garlic
3 tablespoons olive or canola oil
1 cup white miso
½ cup sugar
¼ cup mirin (sweet rice wine)
¼ cup sake

1. Finely chop garlic. Toss eggplant with garlic and oil to marinate.

2. Combine remaining ingredients in a sauce pot. Cook over medium heat, stirring constantly until completely combined and sugar has dissolved.

3. Prepare a charcoal grill. Grill Eggplant, cut side down, for 3 minutes or until lightly charred. Flip over and brush with miso paste. Cook for 2 minutes more. If you’d like, flip again to char the miso paste onto eggplant.

4. Serve with rice, or shrimp or grilled corn.

Labels: , , , ,

----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Lydia (The Perfect Pantry) DATE:8/25/2008 11:45:00 PM I love Japanese eggplant -- no seeds! Your garden has been giving you an amazing harvest this month. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous Anonymous DATE:8/26/2008 09:00:00 AM Hi Julia; it's Kristina from orientation yesterday. I covet your garden, even though I could never keep one myself. Cool blog!I'll keep my eye on it. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Julia DATE:8/26/2008 01:03:00 PM Kristina, Nice to meet you yesterday and thanks for visiting. Look forward to seeing you again soon on campus. ----- -------- AUTHOR: Julia TITLE: Garden to Table: Eggplant DATE: 7/31/2008 09:09:00 AM ----- BODY:
I harvested my first eggplant today! It’s especially exciting since I’ve tried growing this purple vegetable before with little success. My previous attempts yielded a total of one eggplant. When I tried grilling it, it was so small that it fell through the grates and instantly burst into flames.

This year, I’m already ahead of the game. The eggplant I harvested today was large enough for two people to share, and I have several more coming in on its heels. No doubt my success this year can be attributed to the fact that I did not crowd the plants. Each plant had a solid 18 inches of growing room in any direction.
The fresh eggplant had no traces of bitterness, even without salting. It cooked more quickly than the conventional variety, and the flavor was sweeter with a creamy texture.

This recipe is an adaptation from Eileen Yin-Fei Lo’s Chinese Kitchen.

2 Italian Eggplants
2 ½ tablespoons tapioca flour
2 tablespoons plain oil
1 tablespoon fresh ginger, chopped
1 teaspoon fresh garlic, chopped
3 scallions, cut into rings

Sauce:
2 tablespoons oyster sauce
2 teaspoons dark soy sauce
1 teaspoon sugar
2 teaspoons gin
¾ cup chicken stock
1 – 2 teaspoon chili paste or sriracha – depending on taste

1. Combine ingredients for sauce.

2. Cut eggplant into 1 inch cubes and toss in tapioca starch

3. Heat a large skillet over high heat. Add the oil. When oil is hot, add eggplant in a single layer.


4. Cook eggplant until it starts to brown, and toss. Add ginger and garlic and cook until fragrant.

5. Stir in sauce and scallions and cook until the sauce thickens.

6. Serve over rice.

Garden to Table: 20 minutes

Labels: , , ,

----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Dina S DATE:7/31/2008 02:11:00 PM that's one good looking eggplant. and those photos.... ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Lydia (The Perfect Pantry) DATE:7/31/2008 04:32:00 PM Wahoo! Your first eggplant! Gardening is always exciting, isn't it? ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Unknown DATE:8/01/2008 09:15:00 AM A perfect, unblemished eggplant is a beautiful thing. Well done! ----- --------