AUTHOR: Julia TITLE: Swimming Upstream (Recipe: Shad Roe with Braised Cabbage) DATE: 3/31/2010 08:42:00 AM ----- BODY:
Like salmon, shad spawn in the spring… They generally live in salt water, but swim up fresh water rivers, like the Delaware River, in the spring to lay their eggs. It’s during this season that the female shads swell up with eggs in anticipation.

Though many fish are available year round now, despite preferred seasons, the shad roe can’t be forced or rushed, and it’s limited to a 5 week window in March and April.

The roe are held together by a thin membrane. Honestly, I think this is a euphemism for ovary sacs. The tiny eggs inside are the size of sturgeon (caviar) roe. But unlike caviar, it’s sold fresh, and not salted or preserved. As such, it must be cooked. A “pair” of shad roe, as it is sold, is ample for two people.
The earthy, sweet and rich flavor of the shad roe classically pairs with bacon, capers and/or balsamic vinegar. I’ve been trying to branch out from the standard. And thinking about the flavor profiles of the traditional accompaniments, I opted for the sweet and sour flavor of braised cabbage (and a side of latkes to give a little texture to the otherwise soft meal)

Shad Roe with Braised Cabbage
1 onion
2 slices bacon (opt) or 2 tbs. butter
1 small red cabbage, cut in half, core removed and sliced thin
¼ cup red wine
¼ cup red wine vinegar
1 tbs. red currant jelly
1 tbs. sugar
1 pair shad roe
1 tbs. flour
2 tbs. plain oil
salt, pepper and lemon juice to taste

1. In a medium pan, render bacon fat over medium heat for about 3 minutes… add the onions and cook until onions are soft, about 5 minutes. Add red wine, red wine vinegar, sugar, red currant jelly and cabbage. Cover, and cook for 20 minutes, or until cabbage is nice and tender. Remove cover and continue cooking until most of the liquid has evaporated. Set aside in a warm place

2. Heat another skillet over high heat. Season shad with salt and pepper, and dust it with flour. Use a fork to poke a few holes in the membrane -- this will keep the roe from exploding. When the pan is hot, add the oil. Gently place the shad roe in the pan. Cook for 5 minutes on the first side, or until golden brown. Flip over and cook for a few minutes more. Squeeze a few drops of lemon juice on top just before serving.



Labels: ,

----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous Anonymous DATE:3/31/2010 09:50:00 AM Well i think you don't have to go that far (ovary sacs) to see what that shot is a euphimism for. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Julia DATE:4/01/2010 08:49:00 PM You must be in one of those rare areas that didn't get a ban on shad fishing. Looks good! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Lori Lynn DATE:4/03/2010 05:54:00 PM I used to eat Shad years ago, from a jar. Haven't come across it on a long time!

This sounds amazing!
LL ----- -------- AUTHOR: Julia TITLE: Where the Wild Things Are DATE: 5/06/2009 09:14:00 AM ----- BODY:
Nowadays, it seems you can get anything, any time of year. Asparagus in January? No problem… probably flown in from Chile. Apples in August? New Zealand. Even "wild" mushrooms aren’t wild. They’re cultivated, and perhaps generously called exotic.

I love spring for so many reasons, but especially for the seasonal spring foods that are truly seasonal. Ramps (wild leeks), for example, are only available in the May.

Ramps taste like a cross between garlic and scallions, with a white bulb and elongated, broad leaves. Like scallions, both the leaves and bulb are edible. I slice the bulbs thinly and sauté them before adding the leaves. I mix them with spring greens for dumplings or with a mix of peas and asparagus and morels for the quintessential spring vegetable mix.

Pickling ramps helps preserve their spring flavor for a few months longer.
Shad Roe is an east coast spring delicacy, also only available in the spring, when the shad leaves the ocean to mate in the fresh waters of the Delaware river. The roe is harvested in “sacs” (or ovaries if you want to be graphic about it). The thin membrane holds together millions of little roe, the size of typical caviar.

But unlike caviar or taramasalta, the roe is fresh, not salted or preserved. The flavor is sweet and earthy (like fresh-water fish) with a mild saltwater taste.

I pan-fried shad roe with the classic garnishes of capers and bacon, and the less classic pickled ramps. I made a sauce with balsamic vinegar, tomatoes (canned from last summer) and butter.
The greens in the background is from the first harvest of my own mesclun. No dressing, but enough other flavors on the plate that it really didn't need anything.

Labels: , ,

----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous Rob Sama DATE:5/06/2009 03:37:00 PM I made shad row last week. It's like sweetbreads from the sea... ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Heather DATE:5/06/2009 08:12:00 PM i just pre-wrote a post about ramps too!! they're so amazingly delicious!!!! mmmm. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Reeni DATE:5/06/2009 08:22:00 PM I've never had a ramp. But I love garlic and scallions. I will have to look for them, I would love to try them. Your dish looks delicious! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Dewi DATE:5/07/2009 01:14:00 PM I saw ramps yesterday at my local grocery store. I didn't buy, but now I am tempting. I actually want to grow my own if possible. I guess it's too late now.

That pickle ramps, sounds so tempting...
Cheers,
elra ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Emily DATE:5/07/2009 05:17:00 PM I've never had ramps, but I'm excited to try them! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Julia DATE:5/08/2009 07:42:00 AM Rob -- and I love sweetbreads too! Great analogy.

Heather -- Can't wait to see what you did with the ramps. I just saw a recipe for ramp pesto... yum!

Reeni -- I think you would love them!

Elra -- That would be great if you could grow them... I've never heard of anyone doing that.

Emily -- you should! It's definitely a spring treat. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Melissa DATE:5/08/2009 07:59:00 PM Finally tried ramps last weekend. Loved them! Don't know if I want to post the dish though, I actually didn't photograph it well. But it was a simple pasta with the ramps and olive oil and a bit of parm reg. I was amazed at the taste. Hard to describe and very strong (in a way I liked, obviously). ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Julia DATE:5/09/2009 07:47:00 AM Melissa -- I"m glad you tried them and liked them! I just bought more yesterday. And as you can see, bad photography never stops me from posting! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous Jude DATE:5/10/2009 07:48:00 PM I love ramps. Gonna have to try that pickling recipe if I can still find them here. ----- --------