AUTHOR: Julia TITLE: Crop Rotation (Recipe: Lentils with Spinach and Scallops) DATE: 3/15/2010 02:24:00 AM ----- BODY:

Legumes – things like lentils, peanuts and chickpeas – are plants grown specifically for their seeds. They are also an integral part of crop rotation – a farming practice of planting different crops in one location as a way to replace nitrogen and other nutrients that other crops deplete. This practice minimizes the need for fertilizers and helps ward off insects and fungus.

Plants get nutrients from the soil. And unless we amend the soil, it will degrade every season as plants pull more and more from the soil. Amendments can come in the form of artificial fertilizers and organic compost. We can also add nutrients back by planting particularly nutrient dense crops, such as clover, wheat grass and legumes. Instead of depleting the soil, they add nitrogen and other important nutrients back into the soil… and planting these crops across a tapped area of soil can help it recover, so that future crops will grow better.

For me, lentils are a protein- and nutrient- dense food that is also very economical. They come in a variety of colors and shapes – red, green, brown and the rounder French (green) lentils. The French lentils are better for holding their shape, the red are great for their wonderful color and in soups since they puree easily.

In the past few weeks, a bevy of recipes have popped up on the blogosphere…
Barley Pilaf with Lentils from The Perfect Pantry
Palak Dal from Closet Cooking
Crock-Pot Curried Red Lentils from Eat This.

Last week, I made a variation on Mulligatawny soup from We Are Never Full, and garnished it with seared scallops and spinach.

Mulligatawny Soup
1 tbs. butter
1 onion, peeled and chopped
1 inch piece of ginger, peeled and chopped
4 cloves garlic, peeled, chopped into a few chunks
½ stalk of celery, chopped finely
1 carrot, peeled and chopped
2 tbsp. curry
1/2 cinnamon
2 tsp. ground coriander seed
1 tsp. ground cumin
1 tsp. black pepper
1 can tomatoes
1 1/2 cups of red lentils
6 to 8 cups of chicken stock
Juice of 1 lemon or lime
½ lb. scallops
½ lb. spinach
Sour cream or plain yogurt to garnish

1. Melt butter in a soup pot over medium heat. Add onions, garlic and ginger and sauté until they soften and become fragrant.
2. To the pot, add the spices, carrots and celery. Cook for 1 minute more, just to toast the spices and help them release their flavor.
3. Add the lentils, tomatoes and chicken stock. Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce the heat to simmer and cook for 30 minutes or until lentils are tender.
4. Meanwhile, season scallops with salt and pepper. Heat a large skillet over high heat. Add a tablespoon of oil. Add the scallops and cook for 2 minutes or until they start to brown. Flip them over and then cook for 2 minutes more. Remove the scallops from the pan.
5. Return the scallop pan to the heat. Wilt spinach. Season with salt and pepper and lemon juice.
6. When lentils are tender, puree in the blender or with an immersion blender. Adjust seasoning with salt pepper and lemon juice. Garnish with scallops and spinach.



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----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger T.W. Barritt at Culinary Types DATE:3/15/2010 09:15:00 AM I've been a fan of lentils for a long time - I love the earthiness and the texture. But I didn't know until now that legumes were used in crop rotation. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous Lydia (The Perfect Pantry) DATE:3/15/2010 11:00:00 AM I'm utterly in love with lentils. I picked up some white lentils at Sid Wainer a few weeks ago and have yet to cook with them (I'll turn them into soup, of course!). ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous noble pig DATE:3/15/2010 09:37:00 PM One of my fave soups but it has been so long since I mae it. I need to change that. ----- -------- AUTHOR: Julia TITLE: The Legend of the Macomber Turnip (Recipe: Macomber Turnip Soup with Lobster) DATE: 12/11/2009 03:45:00 PM ----- BODY:


Macomber Turnips are prized for their creamy texture and subtlety balanced sweet-tart flavor. Intuitively, I know they appear on restaurant menus all over New England in the fall. Just for kicks, I Googled, “Macomber Turnip Soup Menu” to see approximately how many restaurants in Boston feature them. Eight out of the ten results on the first page led to a different local restaurant’s menu.

(photo credit: Wendy Maeda, The Boston Globe)

They look like the purple top turnips in shape, size and color gradations. But instead of white with purple shoulders, they are flesh toned with more muted purple shoulders.

According to Cukie Macomber, as written in the New Bedford Standard Times, "It (ed:the macomber turnip)began when two brothers, Adin and Elihu, sixth-generation farmers from the Westport portion of old Dartmouth, began experimenting with seeds. They returned from a fair in Philadelphia in 1876 with seeds for experimentation, planting radishes next to rutabagas (17th century crossbreed of a cabbage and a turnip) to allow cross pollination. The Westport Macomber Turnip was born. Their new turnip inherited the white flesh of the radish parent and turnip grandparent, but an unusual sweetness and horseradish aroma, raw and cooked."

Every year, I see them at Russo’s and think I will buy a few and experiment. Nothing happened until this year. And how glad I am to have discovered them.

As a simple side dish, I roasted them with apples, ginger and garlic.


This dish transformed easily into a soup. With the addition of a little wine and chicken stock I pureed them. I added a little cream to give the soup a little richness. I started to add lemon juice as its part of my usual seasoning routine. But when I tasted the soup it was wonderfully bright without any more seasoning.

This soup can be easily dolled up with a little lobster and/or truffles on top.

Roasted Turnip Base
1 tbs. butter
1 macomber turnip
1 tsp. minced fresh ginger
1 tsp. minced fresh garlic
1 gala apple

1. Preheat the oven to 375.
2. Peel turnip and cut into ¾ inch cubes.
3. Melt the butter in a skillet over medium heat. Add ginger and garlic, and cook for 2 minutes, just to soften.
4. Toss the butter with the turnips. Season with salt and pepper. Spread them in a single layer on a cookie sheet and put them in the oven.
5. Roast t the turnips for 20 minutes.
6. While they’re roasting, core the apple and cut it into a ½ inch dice. Do not peel it.
7. After 20 minutes, add the apple to the turnips. Toss them together to make sure the apples get a little butter coating. Roast for 5 minutes more.
8. Serve as a side dish to braised short ribs or salmon.





Macomber Turnip Soup with Lobster
Turnip Base
1 quart chicken stock/broth
¼ cup heavy cream
1 small leek, white and light green parts, cut and washed.

½ pound lobster meat
1 tsp. fresh tarragon
1 scallion, cut into rings
1 tbs. butter
Lemon


1. In a large soup pot, combine turnip base, chicken stock and leek. Simmer for 20 minutes. Puree in a blender (in two parts if necessary) until smooth. Add cream. Return to pot, and set aside in a warm place.
2. In a medium skillet, melt the butter. Add the lobster and warm it through. Just before serving add tarragon, scallions and a squeeze of lemon.
3. Ladle soup into bowls. Top with lobsters and extra scallion rounds.


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----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Lori Lynn DATE:12/11/2009 06:40:00 PM You call that "a little lobster?"
The soup looks divine. I hope we can get these here on the West coast.
LL ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Tall Kate DATE:12/11/2009 07:55:00 PM There is a Macomber turnip soup recipe in the current Edible Boston, too. Russo's has them, hm? That sounds like a good excuse to brave the crowds one of these days soon. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous jo DATE:12/11/2009 08:18:00 PM Mmmmmm we are beginning to fall in love with turnips here. Roasted with butternut squash, but I've never tried it as a soup. I'm intrigued. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Fresh Local and Best DATE:12/13/2009 05:31:00 AM The macomber turnip soup with lobster looks incredible. I adore the combination of lobster and tarragon. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger meanhenry DATE:1/20/2010 09:56:00 PM love the lobster/macomber connection Julia! Nice to bump into your blog! I get a lot of macombers from a 98 year old farmer named Bob Motha in S. Dartmouth. They are pretty amazing. You have to remove every other turnip from the ground about 40 days before they mature, to let some grow big. He grows 20,000 every year so thats a lot of digging!
cheers
Didi Emmons ----- -------- AUTHOR: Julia TITLE: Growing Garlic (Recipe: Garlic Soup) DATE: 9/23/2009 10:50:00 AM ----- BODY:
picture from Cambridge Buzz

Every spring when I see garlic scapes at the Farmers’ Market, I slap my forehead wondering how I could forget again to plant garlic. Garlic, like Brussels sprouts, has a 6-month growing season. But unlike Brussels sprouts, which I see at the market when I’m gathering my other spring and summer crops, the garlic goes in when I’m cleaning up the gardening in preparation for the winter. Specifically, it’s planted four weeks before the ground freezes.

This year, I put the date on my calendar. September 24th: Plant Garlic. Thankfully, I received an email reminder from Seeds of Change to order my garlic seeds.

Garlic bulbs grow from the previous season’s cloves. But, you can’t just pick up a bulb from the local market. Not all garlic will sprout. Nowadays, much of the supermarket garlic is bred to not sprout. And most likely it is not organic. So, I accept that I will order garlic “seed” on-line. That was an easy decision.

Hard Neck vs. Soft Neck
The hard neck garlic produces the scape – the garlic flavored green shoot that sprouts up before the bulb is mature. The bulbs, once harvested, can be stored up to six months.

The soft neck garlic doesn’t produce the scape, but they have a longer storage life – up to one year.

Beyond that, there are about a dozen varieties of each. Purple skin, white skin, large bulb, small bulb. Spicy, mild. Suitable for warm climates, cold climates. And it’s unclear if I’ll actually get what I order… Seeds of Change does not guarantee quantities of any variety, so I threw a dart to the wall to decide.

I ordered one “unit” of soft neck and one “unit” of hardneck. Each unit has 3 bulbs, totally approximately 20-30 seeds. I'll be safe of vampires next summer. Stay tuned…

For more tips on growing garlic, go here.

And to get in the mood for garlic, here’s a variation on the classic Spanish Garlic Soup.

Garlic Soup with Romesco

12 + garlic cloves
8 slices bread
1/4 cup olive oil
8 cups chicken stock
3 tbs. sherry fino
3 eggs
2 tbs. cream
salt and pepper to taste

1. Heat oil in a large pan. Add garlic and cook until it begins to brown. Remove.
2. Fry bread in oil. Set aside.
3. Return garlic to pan, add chicken stock and sherry. Simmer for 20 minutes.
4. Puree.
5. Beat eggs with cream. Slowly pour a ladel of soup into egg mix. Whisk into remaining soup. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Heat to just below simmer. Garnish with Romesco and Parsley

Romesco
1 red peppers
1 hot pepper
1 shallot, diced
1 garlic clove,
1/4 cup olive oil
2 tomato
1/4 cup almonds
balsamic or red wine vinegar
salt and pepper to taste

1. Seed peppers and cut into quarters. Cut tomato into quarters.
2. Put all ingredients, except vinegar, in a pot. Roast until peppers begin to brown.
3. Drain oil and reserve. Puree remaining ingredients. Drizzle in oil. Adjust seasoning with vinegar, salt and pepper.


That extra loving touch: In a skillet, add 1/4 cup olive oil. Fry almond slices, garlic slices and parsley leaves. When garlic begins to brown, drain on a paper towel and season to taste with salt and pepper. Garnish crouton with crispies.

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----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous noble pig DATE:9/23/2009 03:19:00 PM Og garlic...I love you! This sounds wonderful! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous Lydia (The Perfect Pantry) DATE:9/23/2009 06:27:00 PM I love garlic soup. It sounds like it should have such a strong taste, but the garlic mellows in cooking and creates a wonderfully smooth soup. And even better that you've made it with your own garlic! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger adele DATE:9/24/2009 07:35:00 AM Hmm. I've been on a soup kick lately, and if it gets just a little colder, this might be dinner sometime on the weekend. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous Anonymous DATE:9/24/2009 12:33:00 PM Hood River Garlic (as you mentioned) has a wonderfull website: www.hoodrivergarlic.com and for those of your readers who are in the south, try:
www.GourmetGarlicGardens.com It is run by Bob Anderson in Texas, my home state.

Sincerely,
GarlicMan76458 ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous Steve DATE:9/24/2009 09:39:00 PM What a great post. I, like you, have been smacking myself for years for not growing my own. Nice to know at least one of us has broken that bad habit. The best garlic soup I ever had was years ago in Munich, Germany. This recipe looks like it could give that soup a run for the money, thanks for posting it. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger T.W. Barritt at Culinary Types DATE:9/25/2009 12:38:00 AM The soup sounds delicious! I really screwed up my garlic storage after I received it from the CSA - so I will go better next year. Kudos for growing yourself! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger grace DATE:9/25/2009 10:28:00 AM this soup'll keep the vampires away, that's for sure! i learned more about garlic from this one post than in 26 years of living. :) ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Julia DATE:9/26/2009 07:04:00 AM noble pig -- really, what's not to love about garlic? :)

Lydia -- I know! I was scared the first time I made it.

adele -- I guess that's the nice thing about fall -- cooler weather more soups.

GarlicMan -- Thanks for the endorsement.

Steve -- Let's hope I can take it all the way and have a harvest.

T.W. -- oh no! What happened?!?

Grace -- that and the burning sage - I think I'll be "evil spirit" free for a while. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Lori Lynn DATE:9/27/2009 12:41:00 AM Sounds way too good. We had a garlic soup in the mountains of Peru that we still long for... This recipe looks amazing to me. Alas, I am now cooking low cholesterol, no egg yolk, but I am wondering if it would work with the white only?
LL ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Karen DATE:9/28/2009 06:46:00 PM oh, yum! I wasn't going to grow garlic, but then I found out that our CSA doesn't offer it in bulk. So I ordered from Territorial, and got a little carried away. I think I have 6 kinds coming soon. Didn't realize that it should be planted 4 weeks before frost, tho, so I hope I'm not too late! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Mini Baker DATE:9/30/2009 07:30:00 PM yum yum yummm! aside from chocolate, garlic is my favorite thing on this planet.... another one of my new favorite things is your blog! I'm so excited I found it!
-Mini Baker ----- -------- AUTHOR: Julia TITLE: Garden Surprises DATE: 6/01/2009 12:12:00 AM ----- BODY:
As I pulled out my tape measure the other morning to thin some plants to precisely 5 inches apart, an onlooker might think I’m quite anal about tending to my vegetable garden. Perhaps. But in some ways I am also quite lazy. One thing I don’t do is label the plantings. I figure the vegetables will present themselves when they’re ready. While the initial sprouts of cucumber and zucchini look similar, the flowers and vegetables dispel any similarities. And since I have not reached the level of sophistication of watering or fertilizing plants on different schedules to suit the individual needs, I really see no point in taking the extra step to label the garden.

This year, I planted several new crops, including what I thought was going to be radishes. As the shoulders of the root began to push out above the surface of the dirt, I thought, “Perfect, ready to harvest.” So I began pulling up the first few, only to discover I had in fact planted turnips. Whoops! And being turnips, they still needed to grow a bit larger.

The turnip greens, however, can be cooked now. A search of the web yields recipes mostly for a southern style preparation with some form of pork product. As much as I love pork, I’m realizing that many of my favorite people don’t eat it, so I’m making a concerted effort to post more recipes without it.

Jody Adams suggests a simple preparation: sautéing the greens in extra virgin olive oil with lots of garlic and chili flakes.

For a more substantial meal, I offer this recipe:

White Bean and Turnip Green Soup with Chicken Sausage
(a variation of Tuscan Kale Soup)

2 tbs. olive oil
1 onion, peeled and coarsely chopped
4 garlic cloves, peeled and coarsely chopped
½ celery stalk, coarsely chopped
1 carrot, peeled and coarsely chopped
2 cups cooked white beans
5 cups chicken broth, water or combination of the two
1 piece of parmigiano reggiano rind
1 sprig fresh thyme, chopped
½ tsp. Black pepper
1/2 pound smoked chicken sausage, sliced
1 carrot
1 pound turnip greens, coarsely chopped
2 tsp. salt

1. Heat oil in a large pot over medium heat. Add onions, garlic, celery and carrots, and cook until soft, about 4 or 5 minutes. Add beans, liquid, cheese rind, and thyme. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Bring to a boil and reduce to a simmer. Cook uncovered for about 20 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, brown sausage in batches over medium heat.
3. Stir in turnip greens and sausage. Cook for 10 minutes or until greens are wilted and tender.
4. Add water, if necessary to thin soup. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper to taste.

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----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Dewi DATE:6/01/2009 01:10:00 AM Julia, this soup look so delicious! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger T.W. Barritt at Culinary Types DATE:6/01/2009 08:49:00 AM I'm trying to find as many ways as possible to use as much of the edible greens I get from the CSA. I know it will lead to a range of creative meals! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous noble pig DATE:6/01/2009 02:50:00 PM I love turnips and could never have enough! Love the white bean addition too. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger trapezeboy DATE:6/04/2009 06:17:00 PM I just heard about this:

http://thebittenword.typepad.com/thebittenword/2009/05/roasted-radishes-with-radish-greens.html

Sounds divine! ----- -------- AUTHOR: Julia TITLE: Asparagus Vichyssoise with Sautéed Morels DATE: 5/29/2009 11:18:00 AM ----- BODY:

I never know how much fiddleheads and morels I’ll be able to get each year, so I always make sure to cook them at least once each Spring. But with the temperamental prices and my cooking schedule, I never know if the second opportunity will arise.

The first cooking, I keep simple. I want to savor the flavors and textures, uncluttered. The second cooking, I tend to be more “creative.” An elegant way to serve the morels is atop an asparagus vichyssoise.

Asparagus Vichyssoise with Sautéed Morels

1 qt. chicken or vegetable broth
1 tbs. olive oil
2 small leeks, chopped
1/4 cup potatoes, diced
24 asparagus spears, trimmed, tips reserved
2 sprigs parsley
1 cup spinach
salt and pepper to taste

Morels
1/2 pound morels, wiped clean
1 large shallot, peeled and diced
2 cloves garlic, peeled and thinly sliced
1 teaspoon fresh thyme, chopped
1/4 cup dry sherry

For the Soup:
1. Heat olive oil in large pot. Sweat leeks and potatoes. Add asparagus, parsley and chicken broth. Simmer for 15 minutes or until asparagus and potatoes are tender.

2. Put 1/4 cup spinach in the bottom of a blender. Ladle soup into blender and puree. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Repeat process until all the soup is pureed.

3. Bring a small pot of salted water to a boil. Blanch the asparagus tips for 1 minute. Drain and run under cold water to lock in the color.

4. Garnish soup with asparagus tips and morels.

For the Morels:
1. Melt butter in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the morels. Sprinkle shallots, garlic and thyme on top. Season with salt and pepper. Let cook for 3 minutes without stirring or shaking. Stir a little and cook for another minute.

2. Deglaze the pan with sherry. Cook for another two minutes until the sherry is absorbed. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

If I have a third chance, I will serve sautéed morels with seared foie gras. I still have a small piece left over in the freezer.

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----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Katie DATE:5/29/2009 09:01:00 PM This looks great! I don't know that I'll be able to get fresh morels, but I might try this anyway. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Dewi DATE:5/30/2009 09:55:00 AM Yum! The addition of morels must give this soup a nice and smoky flavor. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Lori Lynn DATE:5/30/2009 04:10:00 PM We had a most extraordinary meal in Paris last week at Le Cinq.
The first course was asparagus with morels and risotto. It was profound. I'll be writing about it later in the week. Your dish here is reminding me of it. Looks lovely.
LL ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous Lydia (The Perfect Pantry) DATE:5/30/2009 09:07:00 PM Lovely! Nothing says Spring more than the two most wonderful Spring vegetables served together. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Melissa DATE:5/31/2009 04:30:00 AM While I am aware of how perfectly wonderful springy these are, I have yet to try morels. I know, I know. I should hurry to get some before it's too late.

I've also never tried asparagus pureed, but I bet it's awesome. I really want that bowl. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Julia DATE:5/31/2009 05:48:00 PM Katie -- You could also use dried morels... soaked in warm water for 20 minutes first.

Elra -- it did! And a little meaty too :)

LL - That sounds phenomenal! I can't wait to read about it on your blog.

Lydia -- I can't seem to get enough, either.

Melissa -- Sometimes I make it as a sauce for salmon, too, just adding less liquid. ----- -------- AUTHOR: Julia TITLE: Floaters or Sinkers? DATE: 4/10/2009 04:39:00 AM ----- BODY:
My friend Amy and I were both hosting our families for Passover this year and decided to collaborate on some of our holiday cooking. As we pulled together our menus and recipes, the inevitable question had to be asked, “Do you like floaters or sinkers?” Of course, we were referring the matzo balls in the soup that precedes every Passover meal around the globe.

Lead bombs may be a more accurate description of the matzo balls I’ve made in the past. As Amy astutely noted, they all really float. Nonetheless, every year I strive for feather light floaters. Every bubbe has her secret, but sadly, I was never taught. My mother, bless her heart, swore upon whipping up the eggs until they tripled in volume. Others advise using seltzer water. And every year, I follow exacting instructions… some years I’ve achieved success, but mostly lead bombs.

Both the seltzer and whipped eggs strive for the same effect – creating air pockets within the batter that expand when cooked. The expanded air pockets get trapped within the dough as it cooks. More air pockets beget lighter balls. The inherent problem with these recommendations is that after you’ve incorporated all these little air pockets, the recipe tells you to let the batter sit for 30 minutes before forming and cooking the matzo balls. During those 30 minutes all the air bubbles deflate and escape. No air-pockets in the matzo balls = lead bombs.

Finally, finally this year, I synthesized all my mistakes and wisdom to create feather light matzo balls. The secret is to make the batter as wet as possible and still hold together when cooked. The water in the batter turns into steam when cooked, pushing against the dough, expanding it to create air pockets. When the matzo balls “set” (i.e. the proteins coagulate and the starches gel), the air bubbles are trapped inside.

And just to be extra safe, I also whipped my eggs until they tripled in volume.

I combined two recipes from Joan Nathan’s “Jewish Cooking in America” If you don’t have this book, and enjoy Jewish cooking, I highly recommend you purchase it. I’ve made the gefilte fish, kugel and many others to rave reviews.

Stuffed Matzo Balls
4 eggs
2 tablespoons chicken fat, melted
½ cup water or seltzer
1 cup matzo meal
Salt and pepper to taste

Stuffing
1 onion, finely chopped
2 tablespoons chicken fat
1 egg
2 tablespoons matzo meal
½ teaspoon cinnamon


1. Whip eggs with an electric mixture at high speed until tripled in volume.
2. To the eggs, add the chicken fat, water and matzo meal. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Let stand for 30 minutes.
3. Meanwhile, make the stuffing: cook the onions with the chicken fat over medium heat, stirring frequently, until the onions are dark brown. Remove from heat and mix in the matzo meal, egg and cinnamon.
4. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Season generously with salt.
5. Form the matzo balls: with wet hands scoop out about 2 tablespoons of matzo ball mix. Flatten into a round disc around 2 inches around. Put a teaspoon of stuffing in the middle and form the matzo ball around it. Gently place into the boiling water. Repeat this process until all the matzo balls are made – should yield about 12.
6. Cook matzo balls for 30 minutes. Serve with chicken soup.

This recipe doubles and triples well.

Lori Lynn from TaSte WiTh ThE EyEs is hosting a passover round-up, to which I am submitting this recipe. She's posting the round-up on April 15th, but you should go to her blog sooner and often for great recipes and stories.

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----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger samaBlog DATE:4/10/2009 10:51:00 AM God, what a gross metaphor... not at all appetizing... ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous Rose's Lime DATE:4/10/2009 12:30:00 PM Can we find a Thermodynamics PhD to confirm or refute the "leavening by escaping steam" theory, because it sounds specious to me that a Matsoh ball that's busy absorbing water in a broth that's kept at a simmer would generate steam.

I've been working on Matsoh Balls all Winter. What you do to the dough has less to do with the result than how you cook them.

1) I agree, moist is key. You don't want a dry dough. Add more fat/oil if necessary... there's no Hanukah miracle that's happening in your kitchen.

2) Overhandle the dough when making the balls. You don't need to kneed them, but roll them around in your hands to make sure you really get a good smooth surface and they'll be less likely to break apart. A little water on the hands helps.

3) Cover the pot to keep the steam in. After dropping to the bottom when first dropped into the pot, the Matsoh Balls will bob and float. If the pot's not covered, they'll cook unevenly. Cover them. Get a good simmer going. Trust they'll come out OK and walk away. They'll boil on bottom and steam on top. Don't be tempted to peer into the pot to see if they're coming out fluffy or you'll let the steam out and have leaden lumps.

I've never tried stuffing the Matsoh balls. That sounds yummy. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Julia DATE:4/10/2009 02:02:00 PM samaBlog - I guess you have to be Jewish to fully appreciate the metaphor.

Rose's Lime -- I'm intrigued by your theories for cooking matzo balls. Perhaps we need to have more formal experimentations to isolate the key float-factors.

My theories are based on the food-chemistry I learned in cooking school as it relates to leavening cakes and souffles. But I'd be thrilled to have a thermodynamics PhD weigh in... do you know any? ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger adele DATE:4/10/2009 02:48:00 PM Hmm. I know you're supposed to let the batter sit to hydrate the matzo meal... couldn't you theoretically combine all ingredients except the beaten eggs, and add them at the very end?

This probably does call for some experimentation. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Julia DATE:4/10/2009 06:20:00 PM Adele -- I've tried that too. Unfortunately that doesn't work....the dough gets too thick and it's near impossible to incorporate the eggs without either deflating them or having lumps. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Melissa DATE:4/10/2009 07:55:00 PM Aw, make me some. :( This soup makes me so nostalgic. It was one of the only things my dad's mom cooked well and I miss it.

Glad you got much closer to having floaters. Heh. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Reeni DATE:4/10/2009 09:59:00 PM Thanks for all the tips! I've only made these once before and mine were lead bombs. My stomach hurt all night. But I'm inspired to try again. I love the idea of stuffing them! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous Lydia (The Perfect Pantry) DATE:4/10/2009 11:18:00 PM In my family, my matzoh balls are known as "the depth charges." Even when I learned to make floaters, my matzoh balls are subject to somewhat good-natured ridicule. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger PG DATE:4/11/2009 01:45:00 AM My baba showed me her recipe once and I think I have it written down (not that it would be easy to follow, since it's by feel anyway).

I'm usually lazy and just use the package (the one that you add 2 eggs and oil to). Add to that, I'm usually impatiently waiting for the matzo balls to finish and just end up eating them before they're fully ready.

Clearly, my matzo ball expectations are low.

I should try to dig up recipe...or give yours a try. Or both.

I hope your seder went well! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger michael, claudia and sierra DATE:4/11/2009 05:20:00 PM i never knew you could stuff them. that's brilliant! i kinda don't mind when they sink. i like them dense. as long as the flavor is there.

i gotta say though - these sound amazing... ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Julia DATE:4/12/2009 08:21:00 AM melissa - do you ever make your grandma's matzo balls?

Reeni - matzo has a way of doing that :(

Lydia -- How were they this year?

Pyschgrad -- I actually have low standards, too, but my guests don't.

ceF -- I agree, as long as the flavors good! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous chefectomy DATE:4/12/2009 10:51:00 AM Floaters, or else! Happy Passover.. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous Anonymous DATE:4/12/2009 11:15:00 AM That looks SUPER delicious. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Lori Lynn DATE:4/12/2009 05:48:00 PM Oh I have so enjoyed reading your post Julia, and the comments too!

OK, I'm going to weigh in, as I have made hundreds of matzoh balls in my life. We have had 32 people for our Seder for the last 8 years. That is 32 X 2 ea. X 8 = 512, and that is just for recent Passovers. Plus we make extras, nothing better than Matzoh Ball soup for breakfast.

Here is my fool-proof method for fluffy balls:
Use whatever your favorite method to make the batter. Be sure to use a big pot, give the balls some room to expand. Add the chilled balls to boiling water, cover the pot, turn the heat down to medium-low (not simmer). This creates lots of steam and a little agitation. Do not open the lid until the balls are fully cooked. Cut one open to see the interior to make sure they are cooked all the way through. OK, that's it!

Adore your stuffed version Julia. I can't believe I have never tried stuffing them, but I will. Definitely.
Oh and your soup bowl is beautiful!

Thanks for participating in the Round-up. I won't be posting it now until April 17th. Maybe Amy has a photo to share too? No need to have a blog.

Thanks again and Happy Passover,
Lori Lynn ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous limeduck DATE:4/12/2009 09:42:00 PM Honestly, I think most of this discussion is confused - not because the facts are wrong but because I'm in favor of sinkers. Kneidlach are related to dumplings as found in various middle European dishes, and I like them dense. I appear to be in the minority according to recent polling (I encourage you to weigh in here http://twtpoll.com/vv8jqj so to speak)

In my limited experience, the time you let the mixture sit has a lot to do with final density. I leave it around a long time.

I've even created sinkers with studiously whipped egg whites added at the end. Maybe it's a green thumb sort of thing - some people just have it. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Melissa DATE:4/13/2009 01:58:00 PM Julia - I never have. I don't have her recipe. I want to try the recipe from Smitten Kitchen that I've had printed out forever. Your tips will also be helpful. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Lori Lynn DATE:4/18/2009 07:41:00 AM Hi Julia - I wanted to come by to thank you for participating in the Passover Round-up. I am loving that stuffed matzoh ball soup!
LL ----- -------- AUTHOR: Julia TITLE: Sweet Potato Vichyssoise DATE: 11/20/2008 06:23:00 PM ----- BODY:
While we think of sweet potatoes as a winter vegetable, they are actually grown in the summer. Shooting up green vines from the earth, each plant will yield up to 5 pounds of this sweet tuber. They last for months if stored properly in a root cellar. Two months after harvest, I'm still enjoying my stash that I brought back with me to Cambridge.

An interesting factoid about sweet potatoes: they actually get sweeter after they've been harvested. Once the plant is cut away, a chemical reaction occurs turning the starches into sugars. As such,the sweet potatoes need to cure for at least one week after harvesting before eating or cooking.

There are dozens of varieties of sweet potatoes -- both white and orange. Typically, in New England, you'll find jewel. To hear Brett describe them, they are pure sugar. His favorite varieties are white hamon and beauregard. These offer sweet, nuanced and balanced flavor.

Here are some more thoughts from Brett about sweet potatoes:

Very large sweet potatoes are unjustly scorned by novices, but old-time Southern cooks treasure the mammoths for ease of use. They also know that a slowly grown but big sweet potato is more flavorful than a typical conventionally grown, smaller sweet potato whose growth was rushed and babied with agricultural chemicals.

Different sweet potato cultivars have markedly different flesh colors and flavors. The white types (actually beige, to my eye) usually have a nuttier, nuanced suite of flavors, and often a less creamy and more stringy texture, than the orange types. White Hamon is an exception, being both very sweet and creamy and with a unique beige-pale green flesh when cooked in certain ways. We will let you know the names of the types you are receiving. I personally prefer the white kinds for savory roasted uses and the orange types for pies, but there is naught more subjective than palate opinions.
Sweet Potato Vichyssoise is a fantastic summer-time chilled soup, but can also be served hot on a cold winter evening.

3 tablespoons butter
1 small onion, peeled and chopped
1 celery stalk
4 garlic clove
1/4 cup white wine
2 medium large sweet potatoes
4 cups water
2 leek -- washed
1/4 cup cream

1. Heat pot over medium heat. Add 2 tbs. butter. Add onions, garlic, leeks and celery. Sweat for about 5 minutes. Deglaze with white wine

2. Add potatoes and water. Simmer for about 30 minutes, or until potatoes are tender.

3. Puree soup. Add cream. Season to taste with salt, pepper and lemon juice

4. Chill soup.

5. While soup is chillin', heat a large sauté pan over high heat. Add remaining butter, corn, shallots and garlic. Sauté without shaking the pan, for 3 minutes, or until the corn becomes sweetly aromatic. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

6. Puree chipotle peppers with 1/4 cup water and 1 tbs. red wine vinegar

7. When soup is chilled, garnish with
a- corn and a drizzle of the chipotle puree, or
b- spicy sausage and scallions

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----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous Anonymous DATE:11/20/2008 08:52:00 PM my personal favorite is the japanese sweet potato -it tastes exactly like a chestnut, only it's huge. and purple-skinned. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous Anonymous DATE:11/20/2008 10:27:00 PM Personally, I like the garnet. I like the red of the skin and the orange inside. I don't really like the texture of the white ones, which is part of the fun of eating them ... ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous Anonymous DATE:11/21/2008 08:59:00 AM This soup would be a great variation on the gooey sweet potatoes often served at Thanksgiving dinners. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger jesse DATE:11/21/2008 12:59:00 PM Ohhh I have to agree with bostontparties... the Japanese sweet potato is my favourite potato of all! But wow, your soup looks so comforting... =) ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Julia DATE:11/21/2008 04:26:00 PM BostonTparties, Is that the yamakaki? or a different variety. I've only had the yamakaki shredded with tuna sashimi. The texture is quite unique.

Bishop22, Texture counts for so much, doesn't it?

Lydia, You make a good suggestion -- perhaps use a little less broth and serve it as a pureed side dish with corn and sausage on top! YUM!

Jesse, Now I'm thinking this is a different variety all together! I must find it and try it! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger LKB DATE:12/07/2008 06:16:00 PM Hi Julia - this sounds yummy, but i don't see corn and peppers in the recipe list. I am missing something? Can you send it to me?

Hope you are well, LKB ----- --------