AUTHOR: Julia TITLE: Vietnamese Street Food (Recipe: Bun Cha) DATE: 1/14/2009 09:28:00 AM ----- BODY:

If you want to eat authentic Vietnamese, you must eat the street food, whether it's a food cart attached to a bicycle or just outside a store front. While the tour books will recommend gourmet, “authentic” restaurants, you will rarely see a native Vietnamese. Why, you ask? Because most Vietnamese don’t eat this way, except on very special occasions. Their culture is to eat street food or at home. To me, this inherently makes an upscale restaurant lacking in the full authenticity -- while the flavors of the food may be right, the atmosphere is not. The locals are accustomed to paying $2 or less for a meal. The price of a restaurant (which to many of us still seems cheap) is astronomical. The average annual salary in Vietnam is just over $1,000 USD. [[To be fair, I ate many meals at the "gourmet" restaurants when I was craving a little serenity (and a glass of wine) within the hecticness of the crazy metropolis]]

When I say street food, I really mean sidewalk food. Food vendors set up shop on the sidewalks. They will cart out a propane tank to fuel their wok or stock pot, a bucket of water to rinse dishes (and another soapy bucket) and a few plastic chairs and tables. They may have a glass display for their herbs and meats. It’s unlikely that they have any refrigeration. Some vendors have store fronts, and others just transport their cart on the back of their bicycles.

Most people will caution you against eating the street food. In developing countries like Vietnam, the water sources are questionable at best, and drinking the water can make the uninitiated sick. You’ll be advised to only eat foods/vegetables that have been cooked or peeled. A good approach is to slowly ease your way into the questionable territory. Our systems aren’t used to the bacteria, so we need to slowly introduce it into our systems. On my first day in Vietnam, I even brushed my teeth with bottled water. On the second day, I ate a slice of raw cucumber. By the third day, I was brushing my teeth with tap water. And by the end of the trip I was eating with abandon and never got sick!

The best way to discover new dishes is to follow your nose. When wandering the streets of Hanoi, I smelled some incredibly delicious grilling meat the sign on the cart said, “Bun Cha.”

I watched for a few minutes, decided everything looked fresh and healthy, and plunked my big, American bum into the tiny Vietnamese chair. I held up my index finger, “One, please.” I wasn’t sure what I ordered, but there was a lovely woman to guide me through.

They brought me a bowl of broth with the grilled pork meat balls and floating slices of green papaya and carrot. On the side was a plate of fresh herbs, rice vermicelli and spring rolls. The condiment dish had fresh sliced garlic and chilies. With a combination of Vietnamese and sign language, she told me to put garlic and chilies in the broth. Dip the noodles in and eat with the meat balls. The spring rolls are wrapped in the lettuce and herbs, and eaten on the side.

Much to my delight, I learned this recipe in my first cooking class.

Bun Cha (adapted from Hidden Hanoi)
(serves 4)

1 pound fresh rice vermicelli or rehydrated noodles.
1 head boston lettuce
1 bunch mint
1 bunch cilantro
1 pound ground pork
1 large shallot, peeled and diced
2 stalks lemongrass
2 garlic cloves
1 small red chili
2 tablespoons honey
2 tablespoons plain oil
1 tablespoon fish sauce
2 tablespoons coconut caramel (or palm sugar or brown sugar)
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper.
Dipping Sauce/Broth

1. Wash lettuce, mint and cilantro. Soak in salt water for 5 minutes. Drain and set aside on a serving plate.

2. Finely chop lemon grass, garlic, shallots and chilies (or grind with a mortar and pestle). Mix with ground pork. Add remaining ingredients and mix to combine. Let marinate for 10 minutes.

3. Form meat into meatballs about 1 inch in diameter. Put on a grill-rack.

4. Cook meatballs over a charcoal fire until caramelized on the outside and cooked through, about 10 minutes depending on the fire.

Dipping Sauce
1 cup water
6 garlic cloves, chopped
1/2 small kohlrabi or or green papaya
1 small carrot, peeled
1 small chili, seeds removed and sliced
2 tablespoons fish sauce
1 tablespoon rice vinegar
1 tablespoon lime juice
3 teaspoons sugar
1 teaspoon salt

1. Thinly slice kohlrabi adn carrot. Toss with salt and let stand for 5 minutes. Rinse.

2. Heat water to a boil. Add garlic, chilies, fish sauce, vinegar, and sugar. Stir until sugar dissolves. Remove from heat and add kohlrabi, carrots and lime juice.

Labels: pork, recipes, vietnam

----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:

noble pig DATE:1/15/2009 02:16:00 AM How yummy, street food is always a treat. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:

Psychgrad DATE:1/15/2009 02:23:00 PM Wow - so you just got back? Did you go for fun, work, cooking class? I'd be nervous about street food in a foreign country (particularly without refrigeration). I brushed my teeth with bottle water for the entire time in the Dominican. But I think even the locals don't drink the water there.

At the same time, I find it funny how cautious everyone is in North America. Between driving habits, food standards, etc., it becomes pretty obvious how much society is driven by fear here.

Can't wait to hear more about your cooking class!

Also - thanks for the fish tip. Are you going to post your recipe? The mackerel sounds like it would be good! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:

Julia DATE:1/15/2009 03:32:00 PM Noble Pig, Have you been to Vietnam?

Psychgrad, Yeah, just got back... fighting off the jetlag. I went on vacation, but I did take a cooking class...details coming soon. And I agree about North Americans - probably one of the reasons I love traveling so much. I'll post the mackerel soon. Stay tuned :) ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:

white on rice couple DATE:1/24/2009 02:24:00 AM Another great dish to make Julia! I'm so glad you learned this in your cooking class. It's one of our favorites and Anthony Bourdains too!

The street food is amazing, isn't it? I can't wait to go back again. Your descriptions are making me homesick. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:

Anonymous DATE:1/26/2009 01:18:00 PM I think you are very brave to go Vietnam on your own. I like to travel but usually with a group. I did travelto Australia with a friend but I guess because they are Western and speak English I wasn't afraid. I also like the experience of tasting the local cusine but I think I'd hesitate at vietnamese street food. Glad you didn't get sick. ----- --------