AUTHOR: Julia TITLE: The Origins of a Recipe (Juniper Scented Duck with Caramelized Balsamic Sauce) DATE: 4/07/2010 06:05:00 AM ----- BODY:
They say no idea is original, nor is any recipe. Most recipes take inspiration from someone else’s ideas. And my recipe for Juniper Scented Duck with Caramelized Balsamic Sauce and Celeriac Puree is no different.

Lorenza de Medici has a recipe for wild boar stew that has all sorts of unique flavorings and techniques. The marinade and subsequent braising liquid calls for juniper (the pine berry that is also the prominent flavoring in gin), red wine, carrots celery and onions. Separately, she caramelizes sugar with garlic, and then adds red wine vinegar to create a sweet and sour flavor. When the pork is cooked, the meat is pulled out, and the braising liquid (along with all the mushy vegetables) are pureed to act as a thickener to the stew. She finishes the sauce with chocolate, prunes and almonds.

As I often do, I substitute proteins within a recipe… chicken for pork, pork for duck, duck for beef or tuna, and so on… for this recipe, I decided duck breasts would be a fine substitute for the wild boar. And since duck breasts don’t require a long braising time (and in fact suffer from that) more modifications were necessary.

The duck received the same marinade as the original recipe. I then poached a technique from Thomas Keller to cook the duck “sous vide” I removed the skin, rolled up the duck breast lengthwise, the duck was rolled in a blanched cabbage leaf and then wrapped in plastic wrap like a tootsie roll. The whole package is poached in boiling water for 8 minutes for a perfect medium rare.

I liked the idea of the caramelized sugar for a sweet and sour sauce. But since I didn’t have red wine vinegar, I used balsamic instead. I didn’t want to lose the essence of the marinade, so I cooked that until the vegetables were tender, pureed that, and added it to the caramelized balsamic. Going back to the original recipe, I finished the sauce with chocolate. And recognizing my personal preferences, I omit the bay leaves, candied citron, raisins and pine nuts.

The prunes transformed into a tart relish with fresh plums, shallots and thyme.

Celeriac Puree pairs magically with the sauce – complimenting both the sweet and sour flavor, as well as the juniper.

Of course, I couldn’t lose the duck skin. Those went into the oven until they transformed into cracklings.

All together, this was an elegant main meal for the Passover Seder last week. I serve this dish year-round, sometimes with duck, other times with pork tenderloin, and sometimes even with tuna.

Original Recipe:
3 pounds wild boar
2 carrots, peeled and roughly chopped
2 celery stalks, roughly chopped
2 yellow onions, peeled and roughly chopped
½ bottle red wine
4 tbs. extra virgin olive oil
1 tsp. juniper berries
2 bay leaves
salt
1 tsp. black pepper
¼ cup sugar
½ cup red wine vinegar
4 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped
2 oz. grated bitter chocolate
1/3 cup raisins, soaked in water
½ cup pitted prunes, soaked in water
¼ cup pine nuts
1 tbs. candied citron, finely chopped.

1. Twenty-fours ahead, put the meat in a good-sized, flameproof casserole together with the carrots, celery and onions. Add the wine and marinate for 24 hours, turning from time to time.
2. On the serving day, remove the meat from the marinade and pat dry. In a large skillet, heat the olive oil until it begins to color. Brown the meat on all sides. Strain the vegetables from the marinade add to the meat with the juniper berries, 1 of the bay leaves, salt and pepper. Pour some of the marinade over. Cover and simmer for 1 ½ hours or until the meat is tender, adding the remaining marinade, a little at a time.
3. Transfer the meat to a flameproof casserole. Puree the vegetables, then pour them over the meat and reheat. In a sauce pan, melt the sugar with the garlic and remaining bay leaf, and cook until lightly colored. Add the vinegar and bitter chocolate. Boil for a few minutes. Add the sauce to the meat together with the raisins, prunes, pine nuts and candied citron. Simmer for an additional 10 minutes before serving.

Julia’s Revised Recipe

Duck Roulade with Caramelized Balsamic Sauce, Roasted Plums and Juniper


8 duck breasts, skin removed
2 carrots, peeled and chopped
2 celery stalks, chopped
2 onions, peeled and chopped
2 cups red wine
1 tsp. juniper berries
8 big leaves from savoy cabbage (with no splits or tears)
1/4 cup sugar
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1/2 cup balsamic vinegar
2 oz. chocolate or butter
2 plums, quartered and chopped
6 prunes, pitted and chopped coarsely.
1 tsp. thyme, chopped
1 shallot, sliced or diced
salt and pepper to taste

1. Marinate duck with wine, juniper, salt, pepper, carrots, onions, and celery for up to 24 hours.

2. Bring a pot of water to boil. Cook cabbage leaves for 1 or 2 minutes, or just until wilted. Drain. Carefully, cut away large rib.

3. Remove duck from marinade.

4. Tear off a piece of plastic wrap about 20 inches long, and lay it across a work surface. Place cabbage leaf down. Roll duck breast, lengthwise into cylinder, and place cylinder of cabbage leaf. Roll leaf around breast. Trim edges, and roll tightly into plastic wrap. Roll both ends of wrap to secure shape and tie with kitchen string. Refrigerate packets until ready to cook.

5. Meanwhile, combine the sugar with the garlic and ¼ cup of water in a small sauce pot. Stir, over high flame just until the sugar dissolves. When the sugar begins to caramelize and turns a deep amber color, add the vinegar. Simmer for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the sugar re-dissolves (it will seize up with the vinegar is added)

6. Cook marinade in a covered sauce pot over medium flame until carrots are tender. Puree the vegetables with a little bit of the wine and add  about 1/2 - 1 cup to the balsamic sauce (taste after adding 1/2 cup and add more to taste). Swirl in chocolate and set aside in a warm place.

7. Toss plums with shallots and thyme. Season with salt, pepper, and balsamic vinegar. Roast in the oven for 15 minutes. Mix with prunes

8. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add duck packages and cook for 8 minutes, for medium/medium-rare. Remove from water and let rest for a few minutes before removing the plastic and slicing.

9. Serve with asparagus and celeriac puree

Celeriac Puree
3 knobs celery root (celeriac)
½ - 1 cup cream
truffle carpaccio
salt, pepper and lemon juice to taste

Peel celery root. Cut into 1/8th. Put in a pot of cold salted water. Boil the be-jeebies out of it. When tender, drain. Put in a food processor, and puree with approximately 1/2 cup of cream. Add lemon juice, 1 squeeze at a time, until it is seasoned to your taste. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper.





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----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous Lydia (The Perfect Pantry) DATE:4/07/2010 10:59:00 AM Thanks for sharing your recipe and the thought process that goes into adapting a recipe for both available ingredients and personal preferences. Too often I think we're afraid to mess with what's written on the page, but here you've shown that not only can you mess with it, but you can turn it into something completely different while retaining the essence of what you liked about the recipe in the first place. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous nazarina DATE:4/07/2010 04:05:00 PM You have really poured your love into this delicious dish!I bet the recipients could not wait! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous easy recipe DATE:4/07/2010 04:17:00 PM Thanks for sharing this recipe, it looks amazing. ----- -------- AUTHOR: Julia TITLE: Rice Paper DATE: 2/05/2010 01:55:00 AM ----- BODY:
I arrived in Hong Kong at 6pm, bleary-eyed from a 24 hour flight but also fully aware that I should get a bite to eat and try to stay awake until 9pm. I headed down Wanchai Road in search of food and adventure.

One of the first windows I peered into, a woman was steaming rice-noodle rolls. The next had a man hand-pulling la mein noodles. And if you have never seen this, you should, it’s amazing!!

I was intrigued since I had never seen such culinary action in the US. And so the quest began to learn how to make these two dishes. The la mein has been a long saga without a happy ending, so I won’t regale the details here. The rice noodles on the other hand…

I took two cooking classes during my trip to mainland China, but had to wait until my trip to Vietnam to see the rice paper/noodle in action. As I explored various cooking school options, I focused on a course that would teach me had to steam rice paper or rice noodles.

A woman in the Mekong Delta making rice paper

In the class at Red Bridge Cooking School, we learned how to steam the rice paper for fresh summer rolls. The chef gave us instructions for making the batter… soaking raw white rice in water over night and then pureeing it with 4 parts water for 7 minutes. The batter was already made for the students to then steam on the steamer-contraption they had set up. Imagine a tambourine (without the jingle) with a taut, translucent fabric set over a steamer. The batter is poured onto the drum and smoothed out with a ladle; I made one rather successfully. As I started to make a second, the instructor stopped me… “No, no, no. Only make one.” I was disappointed but also felt I had enough resources to try again when I returned home.

Attempt #1 was an unmitigated disaster. I tried to fashion a steamer-drum using a cotton napkin and an extra-large rubber-band. I soaked the rice overnight and then put it in the blender to puree. And puree. And puree. The batter never became smooth enough to make the thin crepe-like batters, but I tried cooking a few anyway. The napkin smoldered around the burner, the batter seeped through the napkin leaving the grainy rice on top. I was defeated and didn’t think about it again until I saw the recipe for steamed rice rolls on Ravenous Couple’s blog.

For their batter, they used rice flour and tapioca starch. This seemed doable to me. So I set out again to make the rice paper. Making a steaming device remained the unresolved challenge. But then the flash of brilliance passed before me just long enough to realize that a silk screen (typically used for making art and t-shirts) might also work.

Did you know that silk is flame-proof? I learned this in the Arab markets in Jerusalem. If the salesperson claims the fabric is pure silk, ask if you can take a match to it. If they say okay, they know that the silk won’t catch fire. If they say no, then fabric is probably made of polyester or other flammable material.    This was a useful factoid to remember as the silk of the steamer dangled precariously above the burner.


At the local craft store, I bought a sheet of silk (though I could have also bought the whole silk screen set up, the size didn’t seem right for me) and a large rubber band. I wrapped the silk around the bamboo steamer. Success #1.

I then made a filling of pork and mushrooms to go inside the eventual rice papers. Pretty straightforward, and another check in the success column.

Batter…. Easy. I measured out the flours and mixed with water. Check.

Cooking the batter was a bit of challenge, but after a few attempts I was able to successful ladle the batter onto my steamer-drum, fill it with the pork and roll it up.



As I was photographing the final dish, I thought to myself, “Self, this was good, but I don’t think it’s good enough to go through the effort. Glad I tried it.” And then I tasted it and thought, “Well, okay. That was pretty damn tasty. Let me think of an occasion when it would be appropriate.”


And then I started to clean the kitchen....

Steamed Rice Noodle Rolls with Ground Pork

4 oz. rice flour
3 1/2 oz. tapioca flour
1/4 tsp. salt
2 1/2 cups water
plain oil
filling (see recipe below)
dipping sauce (see recipe below)

1.  Mix together flours, salt and water.
2.  Put silk-steamer over a water bath.  Bring water to a boil.
3.  Brush oil over silk.  Brush oil over cookie sheet.  Brush oil over spatula that will be used to turn noodle.
4.  Ladle a scant quarter cup over silk-drum.  Spread the batter so it's very thin.  Cook for 2 minutes, or until it begins to look translucent.
5.  Sprinkle pork on top of noodle, and use the spatula to roll it up, starting from the edges.
6.  Gently remove from steamer and placed on greased cookie sheet until ready to serve.
7.  Serve with dipping sauce, garnish with scallions and fried shallots.

Filling

1/2 lb ground pork
8 shiitake mushrooms, steams removed, caps chopped
1 shallot, peeled and diced
2 garlic cloves, peeled and diced
1 tbs fish sauce
1/2 tsp. sugar
1 tsp. oil
pinch salt and pepper

1. Heat a medium skillet over high heat. Add the oil. When oil is hot, add shallots and garlic.
2. Season pork with salt, pepper and sugar.  Add to the pan, breaking up the meat.  Cook until there is no more pink.
3.  Drain excess fat.  Season with fish sauce.

Dipping Sauce
2 tbs. sugar
2 tbs. fish sauce
2 tbs. mirin
2 tbs. rice vinegar
1 garlic clove, smashed
1/4 lime juiced

Mix Everything together.



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----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Ravenous Couple DATE:2/05/2010 02:28:00 AM kudos for your ambition and success and so glad that we inspired you to try this!! The next time we see one of these banh cuon pots, well reserve it for you! It does cut down on the time! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous Lydia (The Perfect Pantry) DATE:2/05/2010 07:18:00 AM For me, this would go into the same column as making pita bread -- do it once, check it off the life list, and get thee to a store to buy some rice paper rounds! I love seeing the photo of your screen contraption, but don't envy you the clean-up job! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous Anonymous DATE:2/05/2010 10:53:00 AM Maybe stretching the silk over an embroidery hoop would be easier than the rubber band over the steamer. You could trim the silk so it doesn't touch the flame.

I don't think I'd test your claim that silk doesn't burn. I found a few fire department web sites that said silk burns hot! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger T.W. Barritt at Culinary Types DATE:2/07/2010 06:55:00 AM Very impressive! From the class to your home attempts, I know much more than I ever did. ----- -------- AUTHOR: Julia TITLE: Imperfect Inspiration (Recipe: Spice Rubbed Pork with Pineapple Salsa) DATE: 11/23/2009 05:38:00 AM ----- BODY:

Joan Gussow, author of This Organic Life: Confessions of a Suburban Homesteader, hasn’t bought a vegetable in 15 years. Everything she cooks at home has been grown in her backyard in Suburban New York. I listened to her speak about the importance of land sustainability and the health of our planet at the Slow Money Conference this past September. She acknowledges that people have fewer choices when eating purely local. But the rewards are insurmountable.

The audience was rapt, and all I could think about were lemons. Whether I could grow enough vegetables in my garden to sustain me year-round is questionable at best. But what I would really miss the most are lemons and limes… and for sure, I would not be able to grow them here in zone 6 without a greenhouse (as a reference, most of California and Florida are zone 9 or 10). They make so many of my recipes pop with flavor. They give a dish that je nais se quoi, a brightness that can’t be achieved through salt, sugar or butter.

Now that things in my garden are quieting down, I’m buying more and more from the supermarket. And farther away from Joan’s idyllic word.

This dish couldn’t be farther away from local… the ingredients, the flavor profile. The only thing sustainable in this dish were the scallions and jalapenos from my garden. Hey, we can’t be perfect all of the time.

From the garden: scallions and chilies.

Spice Rubbed Pork Tenderloin with Caramelized Coconut Sauce and Pineapple Sauce
adapted from Jean Georges Vongerichten 

1/4 cup plus 2 teaspoons sugar
1/2 teaspoons ground coriander
1 1/2 teaspoons ground cumin
1/2 teaspoon turmeric
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Cayenne pepper
2 pork tenderloins
2 tablespoons water
1 stalk lemongrass, chopped fine
2 cloves garlic, minced
1/2 cup unsweetened coconut milk
2 tablespoons Asian fish sauce
1 Thai green chile, minced
1 lime juiced
Salt

1 cup diced fresh pineapple
1/4 red bell pepper, diced
2 scallions, cut into rounds
2 tablespoons thinly sliced cilantro


1. In a small bowl, mix 2 teaspoons of the sugar with the coriander, cumin, turmeric, black pepper and a pinch of cayenne. Season the pork with salt and rub the spices over it.  Cover and refrigerate for about 1 hour.

2. Meanwhile, in a saucepan, mix the remaining 1/4 cup of sugar with the water and bring to a boil. Add the garlic and lemon grass.  Simmer until an amber caramel forms, about 10 minutes. Off the heat, pour in the coconut milk and stir until the caramel dissolves. Add the fish sauce and chile, then let stand for 5 minutes. Strain the sauce and season with salt.

3. In a medium bowl, toss the pineapple, red pepper, scallions and lime juice with a pinch each of salt and cayenne.

4. Heat a large skillet over high heat.  Add a tablespoon of plain oil.  Brown the pork on all sides, and finish cooking in a 400 degree oven for about 12 minutes or cooked to your desired doneness.

Serve Pork Medallions with Sauce and Pineapple Salsa.  Jasmine Rice is a wonderful accompaniment.











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----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger T.W. Barritt at Culinary Types DATE:11/23/2009 11:30:00 AM It's a tough transition this time of year. I have enough stocked in the freezer to probably take me into December, but after that it will likely be back to the supermarket for most things. Fortunately, my CSA experience has altered my shopping habits, so I will be buying different things during the interim. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Melissa DATE:11/24/2009 03:16:00 PM At least you do what you can. Most people never even give it a thought. We're so immersed in our food obsessed lives, along with others who think the same way, that I think we often forget how much in the minority we are. So hey, you can't be perfect every day, but at least you're not unaware.

I love this pork too. With the flavors you used, I obviously would. ;) ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger foodbin DATE:11/25/2009 02:21:00 AM a great and healthy dish ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Pam DATE:11/25/2009 09:03:00 AM Very Nice Blog and Congrats on the foodie blogroll!

Enjoy! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Simply Life DATE:11/25/2009 04:00:00 PM I LOVE pineapple salsa but have never actually made it - this sounds great! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger chow and chatter DATE:11/25/2009 09:14:00 PM oh wow what a wonderful tropical dish once in a while is ok to get non local
Happy thanksgiving ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous Kitchen Butterfly DATE:11/26/2009 12:27:00 AM I'm really learning to cook pork. Apark from bacon....I haven't cooked it a lot! This looks nice, especially with the asian flavours...and the lime. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Lori Lynn DATE:11/28/2009 08:55:00 PM The pork sounds lovely.

I have 3 citrus trees. Mexican Lime, Yuzu, and Citrus Salad. Just planted a year ago, limes are the only fruit harvested so far.

I have room for one more tree, but haven't decided what to plant.

Hope you had a wonderful Thanksgiving and safe travels.
LL ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger PG DATE:12/01/2009 12:07:00 AM I just learned that I'm in zone 5...not sure what that means. I can't wait to attempt a garden next summer. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Julia DATE:12/02/2009 08:09:00 AM T.W. -- Good for you! I'm glad the CSA has had such a positive impact for you.

Melissa -- Thanks for understanding ;)

foodbin -- you could use lite coconut milk to make it healthier.

Pam -- thanks for visiting.

Simply Life -- this is pretty simple too, especially if you can find fresh pre-cut pineapple.

Chow and Chatter -- i agree!

Kitchen butterfly -- this is also great with chicken.

Lori Lynn -- I vote for kaffir lime. Lucky you!!

Pyschgrad -- It means you're in an even colder climate than Boston! So happy for you that you can have a garden in the new house! ----- -------- AUTHOR: Julia TITLE: Something Old, Something New DATE: 8/04/2009 03:01:00 PM ----- BODY:
This year, I planted several new crops: leeks, kale and beets.

I purchased the leeks on a whim. For $2, I got a little pot with dozens (if not hundreds) of leek-hopeful sprouts. Given my propensity to over-seed, I was skeptical about the density of the sprouts.

When I got home, I tried to tease apart the seedling and spread them out across 3 rows. The roots, already sufficiently established, knotted together. As I gingerly pulled them apart, the sprouts drooped.... I propped them up in the soil, half burying each seedling. Some leeks got sufficient room, others remained crowded. With all the rain, they managed to reinvigorate themselves.

This week, I tried to thin them some more. Can you believe, the roots are still tangled? Seriously, though, as I tried to pull out one of the larger leeks, some of the smaller ones came along for the ride.

With the fresh leeks and a plethora of fresh herbs from the garden, I recreated an herb rubbed pork tenderloin with melting leeks. Even better the second time around.

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----- -------- AUTHOR: Julia TITLE: Introducing Katie from Eat this. DATE: 4/30/2009 04:54:00 PM ----- BODY:
I’ve officially crossed over from novice blogger to experienced blogger. This comes thanks to Kristen’s (of Dine and Dish) great program, “Adopt-a-Blogger”. Kristen founded this program to pair experienced bloggers with novice bloggers in a sort of mentoring program. I missed being a novice (though I had some wonderful mentoring from Lydia -- THANK YOU LYDIA!). And now I’m *experienced*.

So without further ado, let me introduce you to my adoptee: Katie from Eat This. She hails from a small town outside of East Lansing. She’s cooking up a storm of whole grain and natural foods while finishing up her PhD in neuroscience. I’m psyched to try some of her recipes because she’s cooking with interesting yet common ingredients, inspiring me to get out of my usual ruts. You know, things like venison, jicama and bulgur. Also, very cool -- she has a "cookbook of the month." Each month she cooks several recipes out of one cookbook... it's a great way to really delve into one particular style or theme. So check out her blog and say hello!

Honestly, I still feel like a novice blogger... just this week I'll celebrate my one year blogiversary. As I peruse Katie’s site, it looks like she’s figured out a lot of the technical things of blogging that I’m still working on (like widgets). Since I know that so many of you are more experienced blogging than me, I ask:

What advice would you offer the novice?
__________________________
I never posted these Vietnamese Spring Rolls that I made during my cooking class in Hanoi.

¼ pound ground pork
¼ pound peeled and deveined shrimp
1 small bundle of glass noodles
2 eggs
5 scallions
1 handful wood ear mushrooms
1 handful dried shiitake
½ carrot
½ kohlrabi
½ small onion
4 small shallots
4 garlic cloves
Handful cilantro
1 tsp fish sauce3
1 tsp. black pepper
2 tbs. oil
1 pack rice paper
Vegetable oil for frying

1. Soak Mushrooms in warm water for 15 minutes
2. Soften glass noodles in a bowl of hot water. When soft, drain and set aside
3. Remove woody stems from mushrooms, and slice thinly.
4. Chop onions, shallots, garlic, cilantro and scallions. Combine in a bowl with the mushrooms.
5. Chop shrimp finely, and add along with pork to above mix.
6. Cut glass noodles into short lengths and add to the mix along with bean sprouts and remaining ingredients (except rice paper and vegetable oil for frying).
7. Mix well and let rest for 10 minutes.
8. Dip each sheet of rice paper in hot water for 30 seconds. Place a spoonful of the mixture onto the paper. Tuck in the ends and roll into a tight cylinder. Continue until all the mix is used up.
9. To fry: heat about 2 cups of oil in a frying pan. When it’s hot, a chopstick will sizzle when placed in oil. Put spring rolls into the oil, seam side down. Fry until golden brown, turning continually with a low fire.

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----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Reeni DATE:4/30/2009 08:19:00 PM Those spring rolls are loaded with goodies! They look crispy and delicious. I don't know if I have any good advice. I've been blogging for under a year. It's been learn as I go. I will definitely check her out. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Katie DATE:4/30/2009 09:30:00 PM Thanks for the wonderful intro!! I didn't realize that Lydia adopted you - I love her blog. Also, those spring rolls look amazing! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous Anonymous DATE:5/01/2009 06:28:00 AM I'm also part of the adopt a blogger! I'm a newbie :-) ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous Lydia (The Perfect Pantry) DATE:5/01/2009 07:35:00 AM Julia, I'm really proud of you for adopting Katie. I've adopted three bloggers in the past couple of years, and tried to give advice to many others, and I know you will enjoy the experience of mentoring as much as I have. My first piece of advice? Be yourself. Then, be a generous member of the blogging community. Everything else is a technicality. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Julia DATE:5/01/2009 05:50:00 PM Reeni and burpandslurp -- I had no idea you were also novices. You seem quite experienced. :)

Katie -- Lydia has just been a wonderful mentor, not an official "adopted."

Lydia -- Great advice as always. Thanks! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Claudia DATE:5/01/2009 06:55:00 PM Congrats on being an experienced blogger! I just finished one year and am learning every minute I spend on the computer. Lovely spring rolls - my hsband adores them and I've never made them. It may be time to try! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger PG DATE:5/02/2009 05:13:00 PM Wow..Vincent is bumping into a lot of blogs lately. (Can you tell I'm in a bad mood? Revising thesis...rather - avoiding revisions by commenting on blogs)

The whole idea of being an experienced blogger is awkward for me too. But, I'm sure you've gather some useful experience over the past year to share with a new bloggers.

Vietnamese spring rolls are weakness of mine. Growing up, one of my best friends was Vietnamese and all of her family events would include spring rolls. I miss those spring rolls. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Julia DATE:5/03/2009 07:56:00 AM Claudia -- What are some of the highlights of the things you've learned?

Psychgrad -- I can imagine revising a document over 100 pages long is quite a challenge! This recipe tastes like the real thing (unfortunately, not all recipes I've received abroad do), so definitely worth a try if you're feeling nostalgic. ----- -------- AUTHOR: Julia TITLE: Inspiration from the Blogosphere: Alosha's Kitchen DATE: 4/02/2009 08:46:00 AM ----- BODY:

Since I started blogging almost a year ago, I've discovered a whole world of food writers and talented home cooks. I stumbled across Melissa's blog, Alosha's Kitchen after she posted a rant about Cook's County (a sibling of Cooks Illustrated).

Melissa just started cooking a few years ago, and I've enjoyed reading about her adventures in the kitchen and how she's developed her own "voice" -- learning how to take other people's recipes and make them her own.

And I've been drawing inspiration from her recipes. Most recently, she posted a recipe for mustard and tarragon rubbed chicken with braised leeks. Everything about this sounded delicious... but as I started to organize myself, I began imprinting my own style on the recipe.

First, I used pork instead of chicken. I decided to serve the bread crumbs on the side so they'd stay crispy. And I opted to cooked the leeks separately in butter so that I could better time the individual components. Since the final dish looked a little drab, color-wise, I fried the only thing that had color in my pantry: carrots. I cut them into threads, dusted them with corn starch and fried them with parsley leaves in canola oil [[ the colors are still a bit drab, but they had a wonderful textural contrast to the rest of the dish]]. Here's Melissa's recipe.

This is what I did:
1 pork tenderloin
1 tablespoon each: scallions, parsley tarragon
1 tablespoon olive oil
salt and pepper
1 tablespoon canola oil
3 tablespoon butter
3 leeks, white and light green parts, washed and diced
1 tablespoon chopped garlic
1 cup panko bread crumbs
1 tablespoon chopped parsley
1 small shallot, peeled and finely diced
1 tablespoon fresh tarragon
2 teaspoons whole grain mustard
1 tablespoon honey
1 cup chicken stock

Marinate pork with herbs, spices and olive oil for at least one hour or over night.

Meanwhile, melt 1 tablespoon butter in a skillet. Add leeks. Cook over medium heat, stirring often, until the leeks are soft and start to brown. About 15 minutes.

In another skillet, melt remaining butter over medium high heat. Add garlic. When garlic starts to brown add bread crumbs. Continue cooking, stirring constantly, until bread crumbs begin to toast. Add parsley and cook for 3 minutes more. Season with salt and pepper.

Turn oven to 400F. Heat an oven-proof skillet over high heat. Remove pork from marinade and pat dry. Add oil to pan and then pork. Sear on both sides, about 5 minutes. Put in the oven and continue cooking for about 5-10 minutes depending on the degree of doneness you desire

Remove pork from pan and let rest. To the pork pan, drain off any excess fat and add shallots. Deglaze the pan with white wine and reduce by half. Add mustard, tarragon, honey and chicken stock and continue cooking until sauce is thick and reduced by half. Season to taste with salt, pepper and lemon juice.
_________________
That week, I also craved a steak and cheese sub after reading this post. I ended up making burgers with roasted peppers instead. As simple and delicious as these were, it was so far out of my normal cooking habits (I rarely roast peppers) and I thank Melissa for inspiring another delicious dinner.

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----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous Anonymous DATE:4/02/2009 10:28:00 AM Today I am admiring your photography, color palatte and styling, in particular. The blue wedgwood plate, for example, sets off the foods on it very nicely.
I am less enthusiastic about repeated rants: Sounds clubby, like cooks in this blogsphere are writing only for each other. I would prefer to read what Melissa offers which has merit without her rant. Anon. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger adele DATE:4/02/2009 11:43:00 AM I think this is one of my favorite aspects of blogging - seeing someone put out one idea, and watching other people come up with their own interpretations. :) ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Heather DATE:4/02/2009 09:16:00 PM i love cooking with pork. it is so often an underused meat. sounds delicious here! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger tammy DATE:4/03/2009 11:48:00 AM That's a great meal you put together (I'm a Melissa fan, too!). Can't wait to see what you do with your three morels! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Susan from Food Blogga DATE:4/03/2009 07:59:00 PM I love that this is such as elegant meal that is pretty easy to make. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Reeni DATE:4/03/2009 10:33:00 PM Your Pork sounds delicious! But that giant burger is really calling my name. I haven't had one in quite a while. It looks so thick and juicy! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Claudia DATE:4/03/2009 10:42:00 PM Interesting take on rants. Chicken with mustard and tarragon - yes! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger T.W. Barritt at Culinary Types DATE:4/04/2009 09:12:00 AM That's part of the fun of the blogosphere - so many infinate styles and variations to be discovered! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous noble pig DATE:4/04/2009 12:39:00 PM Yes, Melissa is a great inspiration and this is a beautiful meal! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Melissa DATE:4/05/2009 02:17:00 AM This comment has been removed by the author. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Melissa DATE:4/05/2009 02:27:00 AM Thanks all - and appreciate Tammy's remark - you know I love your page! Many thanks to you, Julia. I am so pleased to have inspired you to make two lovely meals. It made me smile so goofy when I saw. So sorry to not have made it over sooner, as I usually do, but I was on vacation seeing my mom. :) Everything looks just beautiful. ----- -------- AUTHOR: Julia TITLE: Million Dollar Recipe: Vanilla Scented Pork DATE: 3/27/2009 05:13:00 AM ----- BODY:
Here it is folks – the one recipe that will impress all your friends.

When I first ventured on my own as a private chef, business was a little slow. To make ends meet, I picked up a few events for other private chefs. On one occasion, after a long night of dinner parties, we all returned to the head chef’s home where he cooked us dinner. He tossed a few extra duck breasts in a bowl with soy sauce, vanilla, garlic and thyme and then roasted them. When the duck skin rendered enough fat, he added a few sliced apples to the pan. The vanilla flavor filled my mouth with its intoxicating aroma.

This marinade has become a staple in my repertoire and amplifies both duck and pork tenderloin. Sometimes, I add a sliver of Tahitian vanilla bean for an added explosion of flavor. Sweet potatoes taste like cotton candy when scooped up with a slice of the meat.

1 pound pork tenderloin
½ cup soy sauce
1 tablespoon vanilla
1 sprig thyme
2 garlic cloves, smashed
¼ teaspoon fresh ground pepper
1 teaspoon plain oil.

Put pork in a bowl with remaining ingredients. Let sit for at least one hour or overnight.

Turn oven to 400F. Heat an oven-proof skillet over high heat. Remove pork from marinade and pat dry. Add oil to pan and then pork. Sear on both sides, about 5 minutes. Put in the oven and continue cooking for about 5-10 minutes depending on the degree of doneness you desire.

Serve with sweet potato puree and green vegetables. If you're feeling saucy, you can also serve with a port reduction sauce.

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----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger ChristyACB DATE:3/27/2009 09:22:00 AM That sounds absolutely declicious! Currently I've been experimenting with Vanilla paste, a very good one. I wonder if this would be a good substitute? ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Sara DATE:3/27/2009 10:57:00 AM Vanilla and pork sounds like a very unique and delicious flavor combination. I can't wait to make it! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Melissa DATE:3/27/2009 03:10:00 PM Huh. Vanilla. Never would I have thought to use that with meat. I'll keep it on file to try though because now I'm curious. Your pictures looks fabulous. :) ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger jesse DATE:3/27/2009 04:28:00 PM Beautiful! I never would have paired vanilla with a savory dish, let alone meat, but it makes so much sense! I can almost taste it now... yum! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger T.W. Barritt at Culinary Types DATE:3/27/2009 06:29:00 PM I keep hearing more and more about the magic of vanilla - it's not just for dessert anymore! This looks like a beautiful dish, and anything but "plain vanilla." ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Heather DATE:3/27/2009 10:30:00 PM vanilla scented pork?! yummo!! i'm definitely trying this. i love pork. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous noble pig DATE:3/27/2009 11:10:00 PM Wow, it sounds impressive, I would have never thought to add vanilla! Thanks for this. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Unknown DATE:3/27/2009 11:35:00 PM this sounds amazing, and I must try it!! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Julia DATE:3/28/2009 06:40:00 AM ChristyACB - I have not used vanilla paste before, but I imagine if you can mix it into the soy based marinade it would be fine.

Sara -- You'll have to let me know how you like it.

Melissa -- Thomas Keller also uses vanilla with savory dishes -- a vanilla saffron sauce he serves with black sea bass is AMAZING!

jesse - thanks.

TW -- vanilla rarely is plain.

Heather -- I'm thinking we have very similar tastes... first the bacon, now the pork ;-)

noble pig -- i was surprised when I first discovered it too.

ttfn300 -- thanks for stopping by my blog! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger adele DATE:3/28/2009 04:42:00 PM Sounds incredible. I'll definitely keep this one in mind. :) ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous Anonymous DATE:3/29/2009 11:13:00 AM I am actually going to try this and I love your tip. I like find a secret ingredient and using it in different recipes. For instance, I use anchovy in a lot of sauces and braises to add depth. Thanks.

--Marc ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous chefectomy@gmail.com DATE:3/29/2009 11:14:00 AM I am actually going to try this and I love your tip. I like find a secret ingredient and using it in different recipes. For instance, I use anchovy in a lot of sauces and braises to add depth. Thanks.

--Marc ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger giz DATE:3/29/2009 10:51:00 PM Had I looked at this without the glowing report, I likely would have passed it by - now I really have to try it. Great sales job!! It really looks fantastic. ----- -------- AUTHOR: Julia TITLE: Vietnamese Street Food (Recipe: Bun Cha) DATE: 1/14/2009 09:28:00 AM ----- BODY:
If you want to eat authentic Vietnamese, you must eat the street food, whether it's a food cart attached to a bicycle or just outside a store front. While the tour books will recommend gourmet, “authentic” restaurants, you will rarely see a native Vietnamese. Why, you ask? Because most Vietnamese don’t eat this way, except on very special occasions. Their culture is to eat street food or at home. To me, this inherently makes an upscale restaurant lacking in the full authenticity -- while the flavors of the food may be right, the atmosphere is not. The locals are accustomed to paying $2 or less for a meal. The price of a restaurant (which to many of us still seems cheap) is astronomical. The average annual salary in Vietnam is just over $1,000 USD. [[To be fair, I ate many meals at the "gourmet" restaurants when I was craving a little serenity (and a glass of wine) within the hecticness of the crazy metropolis]]

When I say street food, I really mean sidewalk food. Food vendors set up shop on the sidewalks. They will cart out a propane tank to fuel their wok or stock pot, a bucket of water to rinse dishes (and another soapy bucket) and a few plastic chairs and tables. They may have a glass display for their herbs and meats. It’s unlikely that they have any refrigeration. Some vendors have store fronts, and others just transport their cart on the back of their bicycles.

Most people will caution you against eating the street food. In developing countries like Vietnam, the water sources are questionable at best, and drinking the water can make the uninitiated sick. You’ll be advised to only eat foods/vegetables that have been cooked or peeled. A good approach is to slowly ease your way into the questionable territory. Our systems aren’t used to the bacteria, so we need to slowly introduce it into our systems. On my first day in Vietnam, I even brushed my teeth with bottled water. On the second day, I ate a slice of raw cucumber. By the third day, I was brushing my teeth with tap water. And by the end of the trip I was eating with abandon and never got sick!

The best way to discover new dishes is to follow your nose. When wandering the streets of Hanoi, I smelled some incredibly delicious grilling meat the sign on the cart said, “Bun Cha.”

I watched for a few minutes, decided everything looked fresh and healthy, and plunked my big, American bum into the tiny Vietnamese chair. I held up my index finger, “One, please.” I wasn’t sure what I ordered, but there was a lovely woman to guide me through.

They brought me a bowl of broth with the grilled pork meat balls and floating slices of green papaya and carrot. On the side was a plate of fresh herbs, rice vermicelli and spring rolls. The condiment dish had fresh sliced garlic and chilies. With a combination of Vietnamese and sign language, she told me to put garlic and chilies in the broth. Dip the noodles in and eat with the meat balls. The spring rolls are wrapped in the lettuce and herbs, and eaten on the side.

Much to my delight, I learned this recipe in my first cooking class.
Bun Cha (adapted from Hidden Hanoi)
(serves 4)

1 pound fresh rice vermicelli or rehydrated noodles.
1 head boston lettuce
1 bunch mint
1 bunch cilantro
1 pound ground pork
1 large shallot, peeled and diced
2 stalks lemongrass
2 garlic cloves
1 small red chili
2 tablespoons honey
2 tablespoons plain oil
1 tablespoon fish sauce
2 tablespoons coconut caramel (or palm sugar or brown sugar)
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper.
Dipping Sauce/Broth

1. Wash lettuce, mint and cilantro. Soak in salt water for 5 minutes. Drain and set aside on a serving plate.

2. Finely chop lemon grass, garlic, shallots and chilies (or grind with a mortar and pestle). Mix with ground pork. Add remaining ingredients and mix to combine. Let marinate for 10 minutes.

3. Form meat into meatballs about 1 inch in diameter. Put on a grill-rack.

4. Cook meatballs over a charcoal fire until caramelized on the outside and cooked through, about 10 minutes depending on the fire.

Dipping Sauce
1 cup water
6 garlic cloves, chopped
1/2 small kohlrabi or or green papaya
1 small carrot, peeled
1 small chili, seeds removed and sliced
2 tablespoons fish sauce
1 tablespoon rice vinegar
1 tablespoon lime juice
3 teaspoons sugar
1 teaspoon salt

1. Thinly slice kohlrabi adn carrot. Toss with salt and let stand for 5 minutes. Rinse.

2. Heat water to a boil. Add garlic, chilies, fish sauce, vinegar, and sugar. Stir until sugar dissolves. Remove from heat and add kohlrabi, carrots and lime juice.

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----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous Anonymous DATE:1/15/2009 02:16:00 AM How yummy, street food is always a treat. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger PG DATE:1/15/2009 02:23:00 PM Wow - so you just got back? Did you go for fun, work, cooking class? I'd be nervous about street food in a foreign country (particularly without refrigeration). I brushed my teeth with bottle water for the entire time in the Dominican. But I think even the locals don't drink the water there.

At the same time, I find it funny how cautious everyone is in North America. Between driving habits, food standards, etc., it becomes pretty obvious how much society is driven by fear here.

Can't wait to hear more about your cooking class!

Also - thanks for the fish tip. Are you going to post your recipe? The mackerel sounds like it would be good! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Julia DATE:1/15/2009 03:32:00 PM Noble Pig, Have you been to Vietnam?

Psychgrad, Yeah, just got back... fighting off the jetlag. I went on vacation, but I did take a cooking class...details coming soon. And I agree about North Americans - probably one of the reasons I love traveling so much. I'll post the mackerel soon. Stay tuned :) ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous Anonymous DATE:1/24/2009 02:24:00 AM Another great dish to make Julia! I'm so glad you learned this in your cooking class. It's one of our favorites and Anthony Bourdains too!

The street food is amazing, isn't it? I can't wait to go back again. Your descriptions are making me homesick. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous Anonymous DATE:1/26/2009 01:18:00 PM I think you are very brave to go Vietnam on your own. I like to travel but usually with a group. I did travelto Australia with a friend but I guess because they are Western and speak English I wasn't afraid. I also like the experience of tasting the local cusine but I think I'd hesitate at vietnamese street food. Glad you didn't get sick. ----- -------- AUTHOR: Julia TITLE: Spicy Pork Tenderloin DATE: 12/01/2008 01:51:00 PM ----- BODY:
In a previous life, I must have been Chinese. My refrigerator shelves are loaded with different soy sauces, chili pastes, bean sauces and a host of other condiments necessary for many of my favorite recipes. I’m just as happy to whip up a spicy pork stir-fry as I am Chicken Picatta on an idle Tuesday. And I rarely tire of the flavors – even after three weeks in China eating “authentic” food 2 meals a day.


With a well stocked pantry, most Chinese recipes are easy to execute. The condiments I don’t have in the refrigerator, I have in the garden: ginger, scallions and celery.

Spicy Pork Tenderloin

1 pork tenderloin, cut into thin slices
1 egg white, beaten
1 tablespoon tapioca starch
½ teaspoon salt
¾ tsp. sugar

Sauce
2 tsp. double dark soy sauce
1tsp. sugar
1 tablespoon Shao-Hsing wine
2 tablespoons sweet bean sauce
1 tablespoon Lan Chi chili garlic paste (more or less to taste)
1 tsp. sesame oil
1 teaspoon sugar
1 tsp. vinegar

1 tbs. chopped ginger
1 tsp. chopped garlic
1 stalk celery
3 scallions diced.
1 tablespoon plain oil

1. Marinate pork with egg white, tapioca, salt and sugar.
2. Combine ingredients for sauce.
3. Heat a large skillet or wok over high flame. Add pork slices and cook until golden brown. Add garlic, ginger, and celery and stir fry for 1 minute.

4. Add sauce and continue cooking until pork is cooked through. It maybe be necessary to add a tablespoon of water or chicken stock if the sauce gets too thick. Add scallions
5. Serve with steamed rice and sautéed mustard greens.

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----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger krysta DATE:12/01/2008 04:34:00 PM i'm the same way, i could eat asian food every day for the rest of my life and i never tire of it. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous Anonymous DATE:12/02/2008 01:11:00 AM Those are a good variety to play with.
When it comes to Viet food, don't forget the FISH SAUCE!! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Julia DATE:12/02/2008 06:15:00 PM Krysta, there's just so much variety, isn't there?

White on rice, I have the fish sauce too! though I tend to cook Chinese style more than Thai or Viet style... ----- --------