AUTHOR: Julia TITLE: Rice Paper DATE: 2/05/2010 01:55:00 AM ----- BODY:

I arrived in Hong Kong at 6pm, bleary-eyed from a 24 hour flight but also fully aware that I should get a bite to eat and try to stay awake until 9pm. I headed down Wanchai Road in search of food and adventure.

One of the first windows I peered into, a woman was steaming rice-noodle rolls. The next had a man hand-pulling la mein noodles. And if you have never seen this, you should, it’s amazing!!

I was intrigued since I had never seen such culinary action in the US. And so the quest began to learn how to make these two dishes. The la mein has been a long saga without a happy ending, so I won’t regale the details here. The rice noodles on the other hand…

I took two cooking classes during my trip to mainland China, but had to wait until my trip to Vietnam to see the rice paper/noodle in action. As I explored various cooking school options, I focused on a course that would teach me had to steam rice paper or rice noodles.

A woman in the Mekong Delta making rice paper

In the class at Red Bridge Cooking School, we learned how to steam the rice paper for fresh summer rolls. The chef gave us instructions for making the batter… soaking raw white rice in water over night and then pureeing it with 4 parts water for 7 minutes. The batter was already made for the students to then steam on the steamer-contraption they had set up. Imagine a tambourine (without the jingle) with a taut, translucent fabric set over a steamer. The batter is poured onto the drum and smoothed out with a ladle; I made one rather successfully. As I started to make a second, the instructor stopped me… “No, no, no. Only make one.” I was disappointed but also felt I had enough resources to try again when I returned home.

Attempt #1 was an unmitigated disaster. I tried to fashion a steamer-drum using a cotton napkin and an extra-large rubber-band. I soaked the rice overnight and then put it in the blender to puree. And puree. And puree. The batter never became smooth enough to make the thin crepe-like batters, but I tried cooking a few anyway. The napkin smoldered around the burner, the batter seeped through the napkin leaving the grainy rice on top. I was defeated and didn’t think about it again until I saw the recipe for steamed rice rolls on Ravenous Couple’s blog.

For their batter, they used rice flour and tapioca starch. This seemed doable to me. So I set out again to make the rice paper. Making a steaming device remained the unresolved challenge. But then the flash of brilliance passed before me just long enough to realize that a silk screen (typically used for making art and t-shirts) might also work.

Did you know that silk is flame-proof? I learned this in the Arab markets in Jerusalem. If the salesperson claims the fabric is pure silk, ask if you can take a match to it. If they say okay, they know that the silk won’t catch fire. If they say no, then fabric is probably made of polyester or other flammable material. This was a useful factoid to remember as the silk of the steamer dangled precariously above the burner.

At the local craft store, I bought a sheet of silk (though I could have also bought the whole silk screen set up, the size didn’t seem right for me) and a large rubber band. I wrapped the silk around the bamboo steamer. Success #1.

I then made a filling of pork and mushrooms to go inside the eventual rice papers. Pretty straightforward, and another check in the success column.

Batter…. Easy. I measured out the flours and mixed with water. Check.

Cooking the batter was a bit of challenge, but after a few attempts I was able to successful ladle the batter onto my steamer-drum, fill it with the pork and roll it up.

As I was photographing the final dish, I thought to myself, “Self, this was good, but I don’t think it’s good enough to go through the effort. Glad I tried it.” And then I tasted it and thought, “Well, okay. That was pretty damn tasty. Let me think of an occasion when it would be appropriate.”

And then I started to clean the kitchen....

Steamed Rice Noodle Rolls with Ground Pork

4 oz. rice flour
3 1/2 oz. tapioca flour
1/4 tsp. salt
2 1/2 cups water
plain oil
filling (see recipe below)
dipping sauce (see recipe below)

1. Mix together flours, salt and water.
2. Put silk-steamer over a water bath. Bring water to a boil.
3. Brush oil over silk. Brush oil over cookie sheet. Brush oil over spatula that will be used to turn noodle.
4. Ladle a scant quarter cup over silk-drum. Spread the batter so it's very thin. Cook for 2 minutes, or until it begins to look translucent.
5. Sprinkle pork on top of noodle, and use the spatula to roll it up, starting from the edges.
6. Gently remove from steamer and placed on greased cookie sheet until ready to serve.
7. Serve with dipping sauce, garnish with scallions and fried shallots.

Filling

1/2 lb ground pork
8 shiitake mushrooms, steams removed, caps chopped
1 shallot, peeled and diced
2 garlic cloves, peeled and diced
1 tbs fish sauce
1/2 tsp. sugar
1 tsp. oil
pinch salt and pepper

1. Heat a medium skillet over high heat. Add the oil. When oil is hot, add shallots and garlic.
2. Season pork with salt, pepper and sugar. Add to the pan, breaking up the meat. Cook until there is no more pink.
3. Drain excess fat. Season with fish sauce.

Dipping Sauce
2 tbs. sugar
2 tbs. fish sauce
2 tbs. mirin
2 tbs. rice vinegar
1 garlic clove, smashed
1/4 lime juiced

Mix Everything together.

Labels: culinary experimentations, noodles, pork, vietnam

----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:

Ravenous Couple DATE:2/05/2010 02:28:00 AM kudos for your ambition and success and so glad that we inspired you to try this!! The next time we see one of these banh cuon pots, well reserve it for you! It does cut down on the time! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:

Lydia (The Perfect Pantry) DATE:2/05/2010 07:18:00 AM For me, this would go into the same column as making pita bread -- do it once, check it off the life list, and get thee to a store to buy some rice paper rounds! I love seeing the photo of your screen contraption, but don't envy you the clean-up job! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:

Anonymous DATE:2/05/2010 10:53:00 AM Maybe stretching the silk over an embroidery hoop would be easier than the rubber band over the steamer. You could trim the silk so it doesn't touch the flame.

I don't think I'd test your claim that silk doesn't burn. I found a few fire department web sites that said silk burns hot! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:

T.W. Barritt at Culinary Types DATE:2/07/2010 06:55:00 AM Very impressive! From the class to your home attempts, I know much more than I ever did. ----- -------- AUTHOR: Julia TITLE: Introducing Katie from Eat this. DATE: 4/30/2009 04:54:00 PM ----- BODY:

I’ve officially crossed over from novice blogger to experienced blogger. This comes thanks to Kristen’s (of Dine and Dish) great program, “Adopt-a-Blogger”. Kristen founded this program to pair experienced bloggers with novice bloggers in a sort of mentoring program. I missed being a novice (though I had some wonderful mentoring from Lydia -- THANK YOU LYDIA!). And now I’m *experienced*.

So without further ado, let me introduce you to my adoptee: Katie from Eat This. She hails from a small town outside of East Lansing. She’s cooking up a storm of whole grain and natural foods while finishing up her PhD in neuroscience. I’m psyched to try some of her recipes because she’s cooking with interesting yet common ingredients, inspiring me to get out of my usual ruts. You know, things like venison, jicama and bulgur. Also, very cool -- she has a "cookbook of the month." Each month she cooks several recipes out of one cookbook... it's a great way to really delve into one particular style or theme. So check out her blog and say hello!

Honestly, I still feel like a novice blogger... just this week I'll celebrate my one year blogiversary. As I peruse Katie’s site, it looks like she’s figured out a lot of the technical things of blogging that I’m still working on (like widgets). Since I know that so many of you are more experienced blogging than me, I ask:

What advice would you offer the novice?
__________________________
I never posted these Vietnamese Spring Rolls that I made during my cooking class in Hanoi.

¼ pound ground pork
¼ pound peeled and deveined shrimp
1 small bundle of glass noodles
2 eggs
5 scallions
1 handful wood ear mushrooms
1 handful dried shiitake
½ carrot
½ kohlrabi
½ small onion
4 small shallots
4 garlic cloves
Handful cilantro
1 tsp fish sauce3
1 tsp. black pepper
2 tbs. oil
1 pack rice paper
Vegetable oil for frying

1. Soak Mushrooms in warm water for 15 minutes
2. Soften glass noodles in a bowl of hot water. When soft, drain and set aside
3. Remove woody stems from mushrooms, and slice thinly.
4. Chop onions, shallots, garlic, cilantro and scallions. Combine in a bowl with the mushrooms.
5. Chop shrimp finely, and add along with pork to above mix.
6. Cut glass noodles into short lengths and add to the mix along with bean sprouts and remaining ingredients (except rice paper and vegetable oil for frying).
7. Mix well and let rest for 10 minutes.
8. Dip each sheet of rice paper in hot water for 30 seconds. Place a spoonful of the mixture onto the paper. Tuck in the ends and roll into a tight cylinder. Continue until all the mix is used up.
9. To fry: heat about 2 cups of oil in a frying pan. When it’s hot, a chopstick will sizzle when placed in oil. Put spring rolls into the oil, seam side down. Fry until golden brown, turning continually with a low fire.

Labels: adopt-a-blogger, pork, vietnam

----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:

Reeni DATE:4/30/2009 08:19:00 PM Those spring rolls are loaded with goodies! They look crispy and delicious. I don't know if I have any good advice. I've been blogging for under a year. It's been learn as I go. I will definitely check her out. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:

Katie DATE:4/30/2009 09:30:00 PM Thanks for the wonderful intro!! I didn't realize that Lydia adopted you - I love her blog. Also, those spring rolls look amazing! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:

Anonymous DATE:5/01/2009 06:28:00 AM I'm also part of the adopt a blogger! I'm a newbie :-) ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:

Lydia (The Perfect Pantry) DATE:5/01/2009 07:35:00 AM Julia, I'm really proud of you for adopting Katie. I've adopted three bloggers in the past couple of years, and tried to give advice to many others, and I know you will enjoy the experience of mentoring as much as I have. My first piece of advice? Be yourself. Then, be a generous member of the blogging community. Everything else is a technicality. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:

Julia DATE:5/01/2009 05:50:00 PM Reeni and burpandslurp -- I had no idea you were also novices. You seem quite experienced. :)

Katie -- Lydia has just been a wonderful mentor, not an official "adopted."

Lydia -- Great advice as always. Thanks! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:

Claudia DATE:5/01/2009 06:55:00 PM Congrats on being an experienced blogger! I just finished one year and am learning every minute I spend on the computer. Lovely spring rolls - my hsband adores them and I've never made them. It may be time to try! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:

PG DATE:5/02/2009 05:13:00 PM Wow..Vincent is bumping into a lot of blogs lately. (Can you tell I'm in a bad mood? Revising thesis...rather - avoiding revisions by commenting on blogs)

The whole idea of being an experienced blogger is awkward for me too. But, I'm sure you've gather some useful experience over the past year to share with a new bloggers.

Vietnamese spring rolls are weakness of mine. Growing up, one of my best friends was Vietnamese and all of her family events would include spring rolls. I miss those spring rolls. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:

Julia DATE:5/03/2009 07:56:00 AM Claudia -- What are some of the highlights of the things you've learned?

Psychgrad -- I can imagine revising a document over 100 pages long is quite a challenge! This recipe tastes like the real thing (unfortunately, not all recipes I've received abroad do), so definitely worth a try if you're feeling nostalgic. ----- -------- AUTHOR: Julia TITLE: Inspiration: Cinnamon DATE: 2/11/2009 10:55:00 AM ----- BODY:

For as long as I’ve been cooking, cinnamon has been an integral part of my pantry… its sweet and spicy scent enhances so many dishes, both sweet and savory. I add it to chocolate desserts for a little kick or blueberries for a warm accent. Since I’m not much of a baker, I more often use it in savory dishes: Moroccan Style Chicken, Italian-Style Braised Chicken or Grilled Lamb Kebabs.

Beyond my staple recipes, I never really thought about cinnamon beyond the basic ground or sticks I keep in 4 oz. jars in the spice drawer. I first learned about Vietnamese Cinnamon just a few months ago, when reading White on Rice Couple's blog…. I was intrigued! First, because of its particularly spicy flavor, it seemed better suited to my style of cooking. Second, I knew I’d be traveling to Vietnam, so I’d have a chance to buy at its source.

Indeed I purchased several quills of cinnamon on my recent trip. When I returned home, I scoured on-line and in my cookbook library for recipes that use cinnamon, but little other spicing. I wanted the cinnamon to really be able to shine. Then, as I was procrastinating one day, reading “Equal Opportunity Kitchen” I noticed that Psychgrad had cinnamon rolls on her list of recipes she’d like to try. This seemed perfect... and even more fun, I thought we could cook together! I invited Psychgrad over for a virtual cooking party.

Cinnamon Rolls are a spin-off from Brioche or Challah. All three use a similar enriched yeast dough; the richness coming from either butter or oil, and eggs. The cinnamon roll dough gets an extra kick from the swirls of sugar and butter in the middle.

The Vietnamese quills of cinnamon, which come from the bark of a variety of evergreen tree, are huge – 15 inches long and 4 inches around.

I used my coffee bean grinder (which I cleaned first, of course) to break down the sticks into a coarse powder. I’ve normally kept my pantry stocked with both ground and stick cinnamon, and pull out the jar that is necessary for a given recipe. I’ve never actually ground my own cinnamon, so my initial thought with the coarse grind was that this is a liability. In fact, I rather liked the little bits of cinnamon sprinkled throughout – they offered an unexpectedly pleasant, spicy burst.

I further modified the traditional cinnamon bun recipe by adding a ½ teaspoon of cinnamon to the actual dough – ignoring Penzy’s recommendation to use less of the Vietnamese variety than what a recipe suggests of the usual variety.

Be careful with these… if you’re like me, and can’t tolerate a lot of sugar, you could be in trouble… the spicy sweetness is addictive. The neighbors have been complaining about the noise from me bouncing off the walls with too much sugar.

½ cup warm water
2 ¼ teaspoons dry yeast
½ cup milk
¼ cup sugar
½ stick butter
1 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon cinnamon

2 eggs
3 ½ cups flour

1 ½ sticks unsalted butter
1 ¼ cups brown sugar
1 tablespoon ground cinnamon
1 tablespoon melted butter

1. In a small bowl, combine warm water and yeast. Stir to dissolve. Let sit for 10 minutes to let the yeast activate.

2. In a small skillet, melt the butter with the sugar. Removed from heat and whisk in the milk. Stir until sugar is dissolved.

3. Combine milk/butter mix, yeast and eggs in an electric mixing bowl fitted with a dough hook. Add ½ cup flour and begin mixing. Add salt and cinnamon.

4. Continue mixing and adding flour until the dough comes together in a firm ball, you may not need all the flour… or you could need a little extra depending on the day’s humidity.

5. Knead the dough for an additional 5 minutes or until it’s smooth and elastic.

6. Let dough sit covered in a warm area until doubled in volume. About one hour.

7. Meanwhile, melt remaining butter with ¾ cup of brown sugar over low heat. Stir until combined and sugar is dissolved. Pour into a 13 x 9 inch pyrex dish. Mix together remaining sugar and cinnamon

8. When dough is doubled, roll it out on a well floured table into a rectangle, about ½ inch thick and 18 x 14 inches. Brush with butter. Sprinke sugar mix on top.

Tightly roll up dough. Cut into 1 inch slices. Put slices in baking sheet. You don’t need to crowd the pan as the rolls will expand as they rise and bake.

Pre Rise....

Post Rise....

9. You can bake the rolls immediately, or refrigerate them overnight and bake first thing in the morning. Bake at 375 for 20 minutes.

10. Let cool for 5 minutes before flipping out of pan. Serve warm with coffee.

I'm submitting this recipe to Southern Grace's Cinnamon Celebration.

Labels: cinnamon, recipes, vietnam

----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:

PG DATE:2/11/2009 11:54:00 AM Bouncing off of walls is a good way to describe it. Thanks for the push to make these. Any time you feel like procrastinating - let me know. Though, let's go for something a bit healthier next time. :) ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:

grace DATE:2/11/2009 06:26:00 PM perfection. this vietnamese cinnamon is something special, and that's for sure. :) ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:

Heather DATE:2/11/2009 08:52:00 PM cinnamon is the best, huh? these look delicious! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:

Anonymous DATE:2/11/2009 10:36:00 PM I could get seriously addicted to these! A friend who traveled to Vietnam last year brought me some lovely Vietnamese cinnamon in a box made of a large piece of cinnamon bark. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:

Peter M DATE:2/12/2009 04:16:00 PM I've yet to refuse a cinnabon bun/roll. Theire aroma alone in the morning could solve world peace. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:

Anonymous DATE:2/12/2009 04:52:00 PM Just awesome! Glad you got them done...so beautiful. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:

Julia DATE:2/13/2009 12:02:00 PM Pyschgrad - yes, healthy next time! :)

Grace - Indeed! What have you been making with in?

Heather - it really is!

Lydia -- I loved those cinnamon boxes! I'm not sure why I didn't buy one to go along with the cinnamon.

Peter -- I'm right there with you.

noble pig -- thank you! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:

Dewi DATE:2/14/2009 10:56:00 AM Julia, those cinnamon buns look so good. I never seen Vietnamese cinnamon before. Your house must have been smell wonderful when you bake it.
Cheers,
Elra ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:

Donna-FFW DATE:2/16/2009 08:26:00 AM These look so awesome. Lots of work, but I bet they were worth it. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:

test it comm DATE:2/19/2009 10:39:00 PM Those cinnamon buns look good. I am going to have to look for some Vietnamese cinnamon. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:

Anonymous DATE:3/06/2009 10:19:00 PM Julia, do you think everyone knows CSA? that is, what it stands for? ----- -------- AUTHOR: Julia TITLE: I've Been Defeated DATE: 1/23/2009 04:07:00 PM ----- BODY:

(Don't forget about the Celebration Peachy Mama Giveaway, now through January 29th. To put your name in the pot, simply leave a comment on any post between now and then. Winners will be announced on January 30th)

Before leaving on my trip, I had a lovely phone conversation with Diane from White on Rice Couple. She's Vietnamese and lives in southern California, has traveled back many times and is a huge foodie. Her insights gave me good background as I ate my way through the country.

In our conversation, she mentioned snails. Specifically, a street in Saigon that has a plethora of food stalls selling dishes of snails. I wasn't scared of snails... I had eaten them before in French restaurants, sauteed in butter with garlic and parsley. Escargot (French snails) are usually pretty small, about 1/2 inch. They have a mildly briny taste and firmly chewy texture. To me, they are more a vehicle for eating bread with garlic and butter.

I never found snail street, but looked for them every time I was in a restaurant. In Hanoi, at Quan An Ngon, I finally ordered snails. The couple sitting next to us romantically scooped out the meat, tilted their heads back and dangled them into their mouths.

When mine arrived, I tried to exude the same romance. The shells were huge, at least 2 inches. I wasn't able to pull them out as effortlessly, but nonetheless, popped the whole thing into my mouth. I bit into the first one and the juices burst in my mouth and trickled down my throat, making me gag a little and cough a lot. I tried again anyways. Oy. I couldn't do it. The flavor of the broth was nice with chilies, lemongrass and basil. But without a spoon or any bread to sop up the juices, I wasn't able to fully enjoy it.

So now on the list of things I've tried, but don't need to eat again:
1. Cow's Feet
2. Kidneys
3. Large Snails

What's on your list?

Labels: vietnam

----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:

Anonymous DATE:1/23/2009 09:24:00 PM Cow's feet...okay that's on my list...ugh...wow. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:

The Mailes DATE:1/23/2009 10:07:00 PM While I've learned to eat tripe [at least when it shows up in pho] I still can't force down chittlins, or however you spell it. I've accidentally ordered it twice traveling in China and all but lost my cookies. Of course, as a mom who doesn't want to influence my kids food tastes, my distaste for such things is a big secret meaning when I've ordered the stuff, I've basically shorted myself food. Kidneys are on my list too. I tried them in France figuring it was the best place and nearly choked. I keep seeing them on menus in Chinese restaurants and just haven't gotten up the nerve. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:

Anonymous DATE:1/23/2009 11:10:00 PM Witchedy grubs. Had one in Australia, once a long time ago. Don't need to eat one ever again. Also durian. Really don't like it! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:

Anonymous DATE:1/24/2009 02:36:00 AM Ohhhh, you had the big apple snails. Don't worry, our really good foodie friend was defeated by these as well.

I should have mentioned to you to start with the smaller sea snails first. Oooops! :D

But that was an experience, huh? When we get together one day, I'll regain your confidence in these snails with a different variety. You'll love it!

I can't stomach snake wine. Just can't do it. Period. Gag. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:

Anonymous DATE:1/24/2009 09:22:00 AM Jello... wiggly and in psychedelic colors. Ugh!

Sylvie ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:

Anonymous DATE:1/24/2009 12:11:00 PM you crack me up. i give you credit for trying. i always hate when people automatically say the would hate somethign w/o trying but you're a trooper! i have a stomach of steal, so it takes alot of nastiness for me to be turned off. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:

Julia DATE:1/24/2009 01:16:00 PM Noble Pig, oddly, I have no problem (and rather enjoy) chicken feet.

3monstermama, I give you credit for trying kidney... and if you didn't like it in France, I think you're free and clear to swear it off.

Lydia, I've never heard of Witchedy grubs. I'll need to google that! You're right about Durian, I need to add that to my list.

WORC - Now you tell me.... I didn't try the snake wine, but did buy a bottle as a souvenir.

Sylvie -- you're too funny!

WANF -- I'm impressed! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:

Melissa DATE:1/25/2009 01:27:00 AM Good on you for trying them. I have that same attitude - at least TRY it. I got hubby that way too, thank god.

I don't know if I have anything quite like that. As much as I have shied away from lamb, I'm already considering making it again after a 6-month hiatus. Same with capers.

I guess it's hard for me to truly hate anything, though I'm sure something like snails or tripe will get me one of these days! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:

Julia DATE:1/25/2009 10:07:00 AM Melissa, I'm glad you're going to try lamb and capers again!

And I'm with you, I couldn't be with a man that wouldn't try things... that's why things never worked out with Fred Flintstone (http://www.growcookeat.com/2008/08/cooking-for-fred-flintstone.html ) -- he was too much of a culinary cave man! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:

Anonymous DATE:1/25/2009 02:38:00 PM itfeet of any kind...kidney, not rinsed and not thoroughly cooked...cheese with maggots still living and crawling Is that enough..I'm fairly adventuresome,BUT there are some limtits ----- -------- AUTHOR: Julia TITLE: Cooking Classes in Vietnam DATE: 1/16/2009 09:32:00 AM ----- BODY:

One of the best ways to learn about a foreign cuisine is to take a cooking class. In the past few years, dozens of options have popped up in Vietnam -- capitalizing on the booming tourist industry. The larger hotels in Saigon and Hanoi offer upmarket classes at Western prices. In Hoi An, every other restaurants offers some sort of course. With little planning, you can arrange a class any day of the week. Your budget can help in deciding your best option. Here are some other considerations:

Hands-On or Off? For sure, the best learning happens when you try the recipes yourself. However, some people prefer to just watch a demonstration, especially when they're on vacation. And there are varying degrees of hands-on -- some schools will have all the vegetables and other prep done in advance, while other will have you chopping everything right down to the garlic cloves. In any case, most hands-on programs will offer a burner, cutting board and knife for each participant. This allows you to prepare the entire recipe and eat your own creation.

The Recipes? Most cooking schools have set programs and menus. Be sure to inquire in advance about the recipes. If you're interested in learning a particular recipe or technique, you may need to schedule the cooking class on a particular day. If the menu doesn't interest you, look for other options.

The Program? For sure, all programs involve some amount of cooking and eating. Some will offer a market tour as part of the program, others may offer a small section on ingredient identification or on the eating culture. The market tour can be especially interesting if you are unfamiliar with the open, central markets common around the world (except in the US). If you are new to a culture or cuisine, this also offers a great opportunity to become familiar with the more unusual ingredients.

Private or Group? The larger hotels and schools usually offer group classes for up to 16 guests. This can be a fun way to meet other travelers and hear about their adventures. A group class does not necessarily mean the class will be less "hands-on." The smaller restaurants usually offer private classes. Depending on the skill of the instructor this can also mean more opportunity for customization.

On my trip, I took two cooking classes, both of which were recommended by the Lonely Planet.

Hidden Hanoi

These classes are offered in a small cultural center outside the center of town. The class is led by a lovely woman (An) who learned how to cook from her mother and learned beautiful English from an Austrialian in university.

The program begins with an informal discussion of Vietnamese food culture and a video that shows how the locals cook -- with a small burner and a cutting board. No fancy equipment.

I chose the street food menu, which included the Bun Cha and Spring Rolls. In the kitchen, all the vegetables were washed, but nothing had been chopped. We chopped all the vegetables, seasoned all the meats, and rolled all the spring rolls. We started on the cooking of the spring rolls and the meatballs, and An had the assistants finish these tasks for us so we could move on. We also made roses out of tomato skins.

At the end of the class we received the recipes, beautifully wrapped in rice paper with a bow and cooking chopsticks in a little bamboo souvenir purse.

My thoughts
While An is a lovely and articulate woman, her cooking experience is limited. Her recipes, which are quite good, came from her mother. As such, if you have a lot of experience cooking, you may find her lessons a bit remedial. I would have preferred that we chopped less so that we'd have more time to prepare additional recipes. At $40/person, it offered mediocre value: the recipes are great and the gifts were lovely, but did not get added value from the personalized instruction.

Red Bridge Cooking School

This cooking school is located on the outskirts of Hoi An. I enrolled in the Classic Half Day Tour. The program meets at a restaurant in town, and begins with a market tour. Our group of 16 divided into smaller groups so that as we navigated the central market we could gather close enough to our tour guide. He identified many vegetables and gave us opportunities to taste some of the fresh, local fruit. We looked at the fish and fresh noodles. We were introduced to a vendor selling traditional vietnamese knives, and given a sales pitch.

After the tour, we boarded a boat to cruise down the scenic river to the cooking school.

When we arrived at the cooking school we were given a tour of the herb garden and then seated in an open air classroom around a cooking island. A large mirror was strategically placed so we could all see what was happening on the counter. The instructor was the chef at the adjoining restaurant. Behind the demonstration area were 16 cooking stations, so each participant could cook their own dish.

On the menu were 4 dishes: Seafood Salad, Fresh Rice Paper Rolls of Shrimp, Hoi An Pancakes (Banh Xeo) and Vietnamese Eggplant in Claypot. The demonstration was rapid fire, we had an opportunity to try our hand at making the fresh rice paper, the rice pancake and the eggplant. Much of the ingredients and sauces were prepared in advance, so the class focused on the highlights of each recipe.

We sampled the spring rolls and Banh Xeo as we cooked them. At the end of the lesson, we retired to the tastefully appointed, open air dining room. We each enjoyed our individually prepared eggplant. The staff served family style the seafood salad and a behind-the-scenes prepared steam fished.

My thoughts
This was an action packed afternoon, hitting all the key points, but not delving too deeply into any one. Unlike the Hidden Hanoi class, so much of the prep was done in advance that we missed learning how to make the batters for the rice paper and pancakes, as well as all the dipping sauces. But with the recipe hand-outs, I would likely be able to recreate them on my own. The chef was well versed culinarily, but did not allow opportunities for questions.

One of my top goals on this trip was to learn how to make rice paper. I had my opportunity to steam one sheet, remove it from the cotton sheet and roll my own spring roll. I would have liked to practice at least once more, but the pace of the class did not allow for it.

At $22USD per person, this class offered great value - a full meal, a boat tour, a market tour and cooking demonstration. The recipes were deceptively simple because all the prep work was done in advance; they were good, but not great. Some of my classmates commented that they were not likely to recreate the recipes because of all the chopping. I especially enjoyed meeting other travelers, and we had plenty of time to talk to each other.

Labels: vietnam

----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:

PG DATE:1/16/2009 11:13:00 AM That would be an amazing experience. Good reviews. It sounds like the 2nd school would have been better as a full day so the everything could move more slowly and allow for more experience preparing the dishes. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:

Peter M DATE:1/16/2009 12:36:00 PM Sounds wonderful. I think to learn any cuisine, you have to go to the source, eat what the locals are eating and get a sense of their tastes and diet. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:

Anonymous DATE:1/16/2009 06:05:00 PM What an experience you've had. It's the only way to learn. Good for you. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:

Anonymous DATE:1/16/2009 07:54:00 PM i really enjoyed this synopsis. i've always wanted to do a course abroad but worry about some of the things you mentioned in your post. but thank you for this - very thought provoking. i'm sure it was a great experience/trip with delicious food. i'd love to learn to make rice paper! you totally should post that one when you do it! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:

Anonymous DATE:1/16/2009 10:59:00 PM What a great time. Thanks for the thorough overview.

--Marc ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:

Anonymous DATE:1/17/2009 06:21:00 PM I could have spent a month in Hoi An, exploring the market, learning how to cook, wandering the streets, sitting by the river. What a magical place! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:

Julia DATE:1/18/2009 11:00:00 AM Psychgrad, To your point, he second school did offer a full day program, but I felt I didn't want to commit that much time -- as there are some many other things to do and see when traveling.

Peter - Yes! Eating what the locals is key too! Perhaps more important?

Cathy -- It really was great! I highly recommend it.

WANF -- I just tried recreating the rice paper at home and so far have been unsuccessful. I will post something about it as soon as I can figure out what I'm doing wrong :)

Marc - It really was fun!

Lydia -- Did you take any cooking classes on your travels? What was your experience? ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:

Anonymous DATE:1/24/2009 02:30:00 AM Sorry to hear that the classes didn't give you exactly what you were looking for. I think most of them are set up for a quick, synopsis of Viet cuisine and culture.
I think with your extensive experience and skills, you could have almost given the classes!
But the Red Bridge is definitely a deal for $22 especially with such an extensive tour.

Thank for sharing your experience! Your valuable write up will be helpful to many. I'm going to use it as a reference for folks who want to know what it's like first hand to take a cooking class in VN. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:

Mary Bergfeld DATE:3/23/2009 10:52:00 AM Julia, you've done a great job with your review of the two schools. One thing I've found as we traveled through Asia is there is a great deal of repetition in the dishes that are prepared in cooking schools. The only way to avoid it is to schedule private lessons that can be tailored to your needs. That gets to be expensive very quickly. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:

Unknown DATE:3/23/2013 10:27:00 AM Hi
It is very right Common about almost the cooking school in Vietnam But If you have been in Ho Chi Minh City and Enjoy HCM Cooking Class in Cu Chi .You will be very exciting with great healthy Food .The School has been on Big Agricultural Villages where you can see and learning anythings from food and listening the Master Chef with Pharmacist and Biologist explaining so many helpful things .Then we will pick everything that we need for cooking then chopping up and Prepare and Cooking following Master Chef .He has excellent cooking skills and great knowledge about Nutrition .All the food is So delicious and We can cook it at home as well for sure .That I love it so much .I highly recommend this Places for everyone when you visit Vietnam ----- -------- AUTHOR: Julia TITLE: Vietnamese Street Food (Recipe: Bun Cha) DATE: 1/14/2009 09:28:00 AM ----- BODY:

If you want to eat authentic Vietnamese, you must eat the street food, whether it's a food cart attached to a bicycle or just outside a store front. While the tour books will recommend gourmet, “authentic” restaurants, you will rarely see a native Vietnamese. Why, you ask? Because most Vietnamese don’t eat this way, except on very special occasions. Their culture is to eat street food or at home. To me, this inherently makes an upscale restaurant lacking in the full authenticity -- while the flavors of the food may be right, the atmosphere is not. The locals are accustomed to paying $2 or less for a meal. The price of a restaurant (which to many of us still seems cheap) is astronomical. The average annual salary in Vietnam is just over $1,000 USD. [[To be fair, I ate many meals at the "gourmet" restaurants when I was craving a little serenity (and a glass of wine) within the hecticness of the crazy metropolis]]

When I say street food, I really mean sidewalk food. Food vendors set up shop on the sidewalks. They will cart out a propane tank to fuel their wok or stock pot, a bucket of water to rinse dishes (and another soapy bucket) and a few plastic chairs and tables. They may have a glass display for their herbs and meats. It’s unlikely that they have any refrigeration. Some vendors have store fronts, and others just transport their cart on the back of their bicycles.

Most people will caution you against eating the street food. In developing countries like Vietnam, the water sources are questionable at best, and drinking the water can make the uninitiated sick. You’ll be advised to only eat foods/vegetables that have been cooked or peeled. A good approach is to slowly ease your way into the questionable territory. Our systems aren’t used to the bacteria, so we need to slowly introduce it into our systems. On my first day in Vietnam, I even brushed my teeth with bottled water. On the second day, I ate a slice of raw cucumber. By the third day, I was brushing my teeth with tap water. And by the end of the trip I was eating with abandon and never got sick!

The best way to discover new dishes is to follow your nose. When wandering the streets of Hanoi, I smelled some incredibly delicious grilling meat the sign on the cart said, “Bun Cha.”

I watched for a few minutes, decided everything looked fresh and healthy, and plunked my big, American bum into the tiny Vietnamese chair. I held up my index finger, “One, please.” I wasn’t sure what I ordered, but there was a lovely woman to guide me through.

They brought me a bowl of broth with the grilled pork meat balls and floating slices of green papaya and carrot. On the side was a plate of fresh herbs, rice vermicelli and spring rolls. The condiment dish had fresh sliced garlic and chilies. With a combination of Vietnamese and sign language, she told me to put garlic and chilies in the broth. Dip the noodles in and eat with the meat balls. The spring rolls are wrapped in the lettuce and herbs, and eaten on the side.

Much to my delight, I learned this recipe in my first cooking class.

Bun Cha (adapted from Hidden Hanoi)
(serves 4)

1 pound fresh rice vermicelli or rehydrated noodles.
1 head boston lettuce
1 bunch mint
1 bunch cilantro
1 pound ground pork
1 large shallot, peeled and diced
2 stalks lemongrass
2 garlic cloves
1 small red chili
2 tablespoons honey
2 tablespoons plain oil
1 tablespoon fish sauce
2 tablespoons coconut caramel (or palm sugar or brown sugar)
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper.
Dipping Sauce/Broth

1. Wash lettuce, mint and cilantro. Soak in salt water for 5 minutes. Drain and set aside on a serving plate.

2. Finely chop lemon grass, garlic, shallots and chilies (or grind with a mortar and pestle). Mix with ground pork. Add remaining ingredients and mix to combine. Let marinate for 10 minutes.

3. Form meat into meatballs about 1 inch in diameter. Put on a grill-rack.

4. Cook meatballs over a charcoal fire until caramelized on the outside and cooked through, about 10 minutes depending on the fire.

Dipping Sauce
1 cup water
6 garlic cloves, chopped
1/2 small kohlrabi or or green papaya
1 small carrot, peeled
1 small chili, seeds removed and sliced
2 tablespoons fish sauce
1 tablespoon rice vinegar
1 tablespoon lime juice
3 teaspoons sugar
1 teaspoon salt

1. Thinly slice kohlrabi adn carrot. Toss with salt and let stand for 5 minutes. Rinse.

2. Heat water to a boil. Add garlic, chilies, fish sauce, vinegar, and sugar. Stir until sugar dissolves. Remove from heat and add kohlrabi, carrots and lime juice.

Labels: pork, recipes, vietnam

----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:

Anonymous DATE:1/15/2009 02:16:00 AM How yummy, street food is always a treat. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:

PG DATE:1/15/2009 02:23:00 PM Wow - so you just got back? Did you go for fun, work, cooking class? I'd be nervous about street food in a foreign country (particularly without refrigeration). I brushed my teeth with bottle water for the entire time in the Dominican. But I think even the locals don't drink the water there.

At the same time, I find it funny how cautious everyone is in North America. Between driving habits, food standards, etc., it becomes pretty obvious how much society is driven by fear here.

Can't wait to hear more about your cooking class!

Also - thanks for the fish tip. Are you going to post your recipe? The mackerel sounds like it would be good! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:

Julia DATE:1/15/2009 03:32:00 PM Noble Pig, Have you been to Vietnam?

Psychgrad, Yeah, just got back... fighting off the jetlag. I went on vacation, but I did take a cooking class...details coming soon. And I agree about North Americans - probably one of the reasons I love traveling so much. I'll post the mackerel soon. Stay tuned :) ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:

Anonymous DATE:1/24/2009 02:24:00 AM Another great dish to make Julia! I'm so glad you learned this in your cooking class. It's one of our favorites and Anthony Bourdains too!

The street food is amazing, isn't it? I can't wait to go back again. Your descriptions are making me homesick. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:

Anonymous DATE:1/26/2009 01:18:00 PM I think you are very brave to go Vietnam on your own. I like to travel but usually with a group. I did travelto Australia with a friend but I guess because they are Western and speak English I wasn't afraid. I also like the experience of tasting the local cusine but I think I'd hesitate at vietnamese street food. Glad you didn't get sick. ----- -------- AUTHOR: Julia TITLE: Good Morning Vietnam DATE: 1/12/2009 08:32:00 AM ----- BODY:

My favorite part of traveling is exploring other cultures’ cuisine, especially breakfast! I’ve never been a fan of American breakfasts – for me, eggs, pancakes and bacon induce naps within 30 minutes despite copious amounts of coffee. But breakfast abroad… Fried Rice in Bali, Congee with Meatball in Thailand, Salads and Cured Fish in Israel….. is a treat.

In Vietnam, the traditional breakfast is Pho: hot, steaming rice noodle soup with meat and onions, topped with lots of fresh herbs. And despite the hot climate – last week it was hazy, hot and humid – Vietnamese will slurp this dish throughout the day.

On my first morning in Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City as it’s formally called), I scouted out places for breakfast. I wanted to find a café/restaurant that seemed busy with locals (I wasn’t quite ready to order straight from a street vendor) – an indication that the food was fresh and tasty. I had been told that the side condiments of hoisin and sriracha were an American invention, and indeed we did not see any on the table. Instead we saw fresh sliced chilies and garlic soaking in fish sauce. With each bowl is served a side plate of more herbs: a combination of basil, cilantro, recao (or long cilantro) and bean sprouts. We also had fried crullers, which we saw people dipping into their soup. They tasted stale to me, and to my taste did not add to the experience. On the first morning I was hesitant to add the fresh herbs (I am leery of eating anything that isn't peeled or cooked, especially on the first day). I enjoyed my soup that had slivers of ginger. Most shops sell pho for 20,000 Dong (about $1.25 USD)
Each noodle shop has its own secret recipe for the broth, and variation on the herbs. But you can count on the bowl being a balance of Yin and Yang – hot and cold foods. The broth, with its meat, onions and ginger are hot (yang) and the fresh herbs, sprouts and lime are cool (yin). The noodles are balanced, and all together this dish is in harmony.

Perhaps the best bowl of Pho was in the outskirts of Hanoi. This version was laced with slivers of kaffir lime leaves which gave the broth brightness. And by this time, I was less hesitant of adding plenty fresh herbs. A few places served hoisin and chili sauce on the side… had this been a Western transplant?

How to eat Pho

The soup is served with a plate of garnishes so you can season the soup just as you like it. I prefer extra scallions, basil, bean sprouts, chilies and a good squeeze of lime. Some people add extra fish sauce and cilantro. In some places you will see dishes of hoisin and sriracha. Add these to your taste. Whatever you like, just stir it in with your chopsticks.

Pho is a two handed meal. With your dominant hand (for me, it's left), hold the chopsticks and in your other hand a spoon. Pull up the noodles with your chopsticks and slurp (or shovel). Eat a spoon of broth. Alternatively, pull up the noodles with your chopsticks and use the spoon to help guide the noodles into your mouth. I try to alternative between bites of noodles and slurps of broth so that I keep everything balanced throughout the bowl.

During the second week of my trip, I ventured into Banh Mi Pate – another popular breakfast treat. [[ This is very much street food, in that the vegetables are raw and unpeeled and the meats are not refrigerated. If you have a weak traveler’s stomach you may want to avoid this.]] I had enjoyed this sandwich in the US, but always assumed it was a lunch treat. One of the few dishes that’s a holdover from the French occupation, this sandwich combines pork pates and cured hams with pickled carrots and daikon. With sprigs of cilantro and slices of chilies, this sandwich has a decidedly Vietnamese feel. To give it an extra Vietnamese touch, the pates are wrapped in lotus leaves before they are cooked. If you thought Pho was a deal, this is a scream – only 10,000 Dong - about 60 cents!

Labels: breakfast, vietnam

----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:

jesse DATE:1/12/2009 10:46:00 AM Mmm, pho has got to be one of my favourite dishes!! I am so jealous that you're in Vietnam and get to eat pho for breakfast! =D Take more pictures of the food so I can pretend I'm there eating with you! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:

PG DATE:1/12/2009 02:03:00 PM Are you in Vietnam now or are you recalling a previous trip? Pho for breakfast would be a bit of a shift for me. I like the standard North American-style breakfast, although I do question whether R puts sleeping pills in my food when he makes a big breakfast.

Thank you for the information about how to eat Pho. I'm always a bit unsure about how to deal with all of the sides they give with the soup. I like my soup boiling hot, yet don't want to miss out on the flavours the cold ingredients bring. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:

Wandering Chopsticks DATE:1/12/2009 05:02:00 PM Maybe it's a west coast thing? Most VNese pho restaurants are open early for breakfast. We even have 24-hour pho restaurants in SoCal. :) ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:

Anonymous DATE:1/12/2009 11:03:00 PM This post reminds me of many bowls of pho eaten on the streets of Saigon, Hoi An, Hue and Hanoi. Sadly, soon after returning to the US, I was back to bowls of cereal for breakfast. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:

Anonymous DATE:1/24/2009 02:21:00 AM Yes, PHO!!! Thank you for telling everyone that it's a two handed affair. We made a video of how to eat pho and that's the first thing we cover, how to eat it with two hands!

Yes, hoisin and sriracha is a Westernized invention. When I go back home and visit my family (all throughout VN) they laugh at hoisin and sriracha. The Vietnamese expats that go back to VN ask for it, but locals don't have it! ----- -------- AUTHOR: Julia TITLE: Tales from Vietnam - The Friends and Family Verison DATE: 1/10/2009 03:15:00 AM ----- BODY:

I don't normally post non-food related pieces on my blog, but this seems the best way to share my travel-log and photos with friends and family. Be forewarned... it's long. Links will lead you to more food-related blog posts. Text by Julia, Photos by Emily.

The trip was off to a good start. After Emily and I checked in at JFK, we stood back finishing our bottled water before going through the security line. As we gulped, the ticket agent approached us with new boarding passes -- we had been upgraded to business class! What a wonderful present and way to begin the journey -- with a seat that reclines flat for the 15 hour flight. When we landed in Saigon, we were met by a Mercedes Limo provided by the hotel. The refined experienced halted as soon as we hit the streets. In Saigon -- a city of 8 million people and 4 million motorbikes (and if you figure that on each bike there's usually an extra passenger or 3, it really amounts to one bike per person) -- the traffic is insane.

As we snaked between cars, motorcycles and bicycles, we spent 30 minutes traversing the 8KM ride from the airport to the hotel. Saigon (or Ho Chi Minh City as it's technically called) is the largest city in Vietnam. During the dry/cold season, highs are in the 90's - just like the DC summers: hazy hot and humid. We arrived on 26 December -- and the Christmas decorations were still up in full force -- a light spectacle that lined the streets, hip-swaying, blow-up Santa’s, and light festooned Christmas trees. The kitschy Christmas music blared through shop doors onto the streets. Saigon can be a bombardment on the senses on a basic day, and the Christmas spirit added a whole new dimension.

On the first night, we took a walk to get a basic lay of the land. Our hotel was in District 1, the central business district -- with lots of shops -- both high end such as Versace and Louis Vitton, and typical street vendors -- and lots of food stalls. We found a food stall along a small side street and made our first foray into Vietnamese cuisine. We ordered the fried spring rolls and traditional pancake (Banh Xeo) made with rice flour and stuffed with mung beans, sprouts, pork and shrimp. All is served with the ever present nuoc mam -- a dipping sauce based with fish sauce and spiked with garlic and chilies. With 2 beers and a side of sautéed morning glory -- our first meal was just over $4 USD.

Our first morning -- Emily went to the gym and I began to scout out places for breakfast. We knew that the traditional breakfast is pho - a noodle soup with beef or chicken, lots of fresh herbs and onions. I wanted to find a spot that seemed busy with locals (a sign of particularly good pho?). When we sat down, we ordered two bowls, Pho Bo (with Beef) for me and Pho Ga (with Chicken) for Emily. I had been told that the side condiments of hoisin and sriracha were an American invention, and indeed we did not see any on the table. Instead we saw fresh sliced chilies and garlic soaking in fish sauce. On the side is a plate of more herbs: a combination of basil, roucal and cilantro. We also had fried crullers, which we saw people dipping into their soup. They tasted stale to me, and to my taste did not add to the experience. On the first morning I was hesitant to add the fresh herbs (I am leery of eating anything that isn't peeled or cooked, especially on the first day). I enjoyed my soup that had slivers of ginger.

We walked the streets, learning the art of inching across 4 lanes of traffic. Though there are street lights, lanes and crosswalks, these are merely suggestions -- and usually ignored. Motorcycles will go into the lane of opposing traffic if they want to turn or just get where they want to go faster. Everyone honks -- I think just as a way to say, "Hey, I'm here" more than "get out of my f*#&@# way!" But sometimes, it is "get out of my f*#&@# way!" I'm starting to get a feel for the different horn blares. It's loud and begins grating on ones senses after just a few hours. To get across the street, you inch one moped at a time. As you start to make your way into the middle of intersection, the bikes will go behind you to make way for you to start moving forward. Within all the chaos there seems to be an organized system.

We wandered the markets -- big, loud, smelly (mainly from the durian) and crowded -- with anything you could possibly want for sale -- kitchen supplies, fabrics, clothes, fruits, meat, etc... We wandered through the markets in Chinatown and through the crowded streets. We bought rambutams and dragon fruit.

Every once in a while we'd see a respite in a small park or a pagoda.

More often, we'd see, streams of mopeds with everything imaginable strapped to their bikes: chicken cages, 100's of pounds of onions, bouquets and baskets of flowers, 5 gallon water jugs.

After a long day of sightseeing and walking the streets, our feet were tired. So we ducked into a foot massage place recommended by the Lonely Planet. After soaking our feet for 5 minutes in a warm mineral bath, they massaged our feet and legs for 45 minutes. And though the place advertised itself as a foot massage, we got a full body massage (fully clothed, of the back, neck, arms and head) for the last 20 minutes. Probably the best $12 spent on the trip.

Most mornings we eat pho. For lunch, we'd find a little shop for dumplings or stir-fried banana blossoms. One day, we ordered a Vietnamese pancake (banh xeo) in the central market.

Overall, Saigon was hot and draining. We spent an afternoon at the hotel pool on the roof deck and ate evening meals at more upscale restaurants. We knew we were not getting the "real" Vietnamese experience, but we needed the respite from the chaos. Our best "refined" meals were at restaurants recommended by the NYTimes in a recent article about things to do if you have 36 hours in Saigon. The first was a Quan an Ngon, across the street from the Reunification Palace (which some say is the best site in Saigon, we thought, "if this is the best, then Saigon's sites are probably not worth much.") We had more spring rolls and banh cha --grilled meat on rice vermicelli. And more sautéed morning glory -- our best attempt at getting vegetables into our diet without risking health. The other meal was at the Temple Club - a beautiful colonial style dining room. The food was traditional Vietnamese. We ordered more spring rolls - that came in 4 varieties the traditional fresh, fried, wrapped in batal leaves and, and... I can't remember.

Yes, we did see a few sights. Since much of Vietnam's history is entrenched in war and occupation, the sights reflect this. We visited the Reunification Palace and the Cu Chi Tunnels just outside the city. During the 1960s the Viet Cong maintained control of the rural areas: They created a network of tunnels 10 meters underground in which they lived for 20 years. The created all sorts of decoys and booby traps to keep the enemy from discovering this underground hide out. We crawled through just a small passage -- extremely claustrophobic -- I could barely handle 5 minutes, I can't imagine living there for 20 years!

Hanoi is the capital but a much smaller city. I would liken the difference of Hanoi and Saigon as Boston to New York. It is still very much a city with a hectic downtown, but the buildings are smaller and the architecture is far more interesting. The weather is more pleasant too, which makes sightseeing more enjoyable. We walked through the crowded streets of the Old Quarter. The sidewalks are narrow, and most people park their bikes on them, forcing pedestrians to walk in the streets, dodging motorcycles and cars.

Several lakes dot the city making for pleasant walks and we have enjoyed them... one has a lovely building in the center, another has an interesting pagoda complex, and another is lined with interesting cafes. Today, New Years Day was an exception --there was a festival along the banks of one lake creating such density it was nearly impossible to traverse the neighborhood. In fact, one woman had to carry her bike over head in order to pass through a particularly dense section.

Our hotel is outside the central district which at first seemed like a bad thing. In fact, it is far better to be on the outskirts of town. To be sure, it's more quiet (though this is relative). But more importantly, there are hardly any tourists. As we wandered the streets of our new neighborhood, we felt we could really get a sense of Vietnamese life. We spent one day just walking in one direction and then the other... One street was lined with Orange Trees. The only time we ran into other tourists was when we passed a pagoda or the Ho Chi Minh Palace Complex.

Ho Chi Minh was a revered ruler in Vietnam's history. He is recognized for freeing Vietnam from French Rule. His body is embalmed in a tomb in the center of the Palace Complex. The entire complex is beautiful with manicured gardens, lakes, a palace and a few other buildings. What is truly fascinating is that people line up to take a look at HCM's body. He looks like a wax figure.

In Hanoi, I've been more adventurous into the street food. My new favorite dish is Bun Cha: Grilled Meatballs served in a light fish sauce/dipping sauce/broth. It's garnished with carrots and green Papaya. The woman at the cafe guided us to adding the rice noodles, fresh chilies and garlic to the broth.

Our first bowl of Pho was laced with Kaffir Lime Leaves.

Today, I had my cooking lesson. This one was particularly interesting since it was my first since before I started working at Sebastians. She ran her program just as I did... with all the prep done ahead, enough work to keep the clients interested and plenty of staff to take over the tasks that became monotonous or not interesting. We even received a little present at the end with the recipes. I have mixed feelings in that regard. Maybe I can articulate later. In any case, we made my new favorite dish, the Bun Cha, and spring rolls. I definitely learned a few little techniques -- such as frying the rice paper wrapped rolls slowly, so they crisp better. Overall, it was a bit remedial for me.

After the class, I walked through the local meat and produce market. Unlike the markets that I walked through in Saigon, this was less crowded, and I was the only tourist. I was able to watch more of the action without feeling in the way. One curious transaction -- a woman was buying a live fish to cook for dinner that night (all the seafood is sold live). The saleswoman started to kill the fish by cutting the head off... a debate ensued, and the fish was killed instead by whacking at its head a few times. I thought, perhaps, the woman wanted to serve the fish whole, with the head attached. But then as I watched longer, the fishmonger scaled the fish, cut off the head and filets it. All parts went into the bag and given to the woman. Perhaps, she felt this method would yield better tasting fish. I would tend to disagree.

Also of note in the market -- one woman was selling pates and bologna-type products. Clearly they were homemade. They were wrapped in lotus leaves before they were steamed/poached/cooked

In Hanoi, I experienced my first food defeat in a long time. I was told that the Vietnamese really know how to cook snails... but I couldn't eat them. When the bowl arrived, the snails were at least an inch and half big. I scooped out the first one with a long toothpick and popped it in my mouth. With the first bite, the juice squirted down the back of my throat and down the wrong pipe. It made me gag, but I tried again anyways. Oy. After two, I just couldn't do it. They were too big and chewy. The flavor of the broth was nice...

Halong Bay is a three hour drive east from Hanoi. The bay has thousands of outcroppings (or little islands) that create a dramatic landscape. Caves and tunnels with stalagmites and stalactites formed from hundreds of years sea water rising and falling within them.

The best way to experience the bay is by kayak. This allows the opportunity to explore the caves and other lagoons which are only accessed through the narrow tunnels. We opted for a 3 day, 2 night tour. We stayed on a “junk.” It was hardly junky, but rather a yacht with 8 cabins, a dining room and a full crew of stewards, cooks and a captain. The boat reminded me of river boats of the early 1920s that would cruise down the Mississippi River.

Upon arrival in Halong City, we boarded the junk and immediately began cruising into the bay. We were seated in the elegant dining room – Each table, flanked with wicker settees and white cushions, was set with linen and china. We were served an incredibly fresh (and light) seafood lunch in six courses: steamed shrimp, steamed clams with lemongrass and chilies, steamed crab, Whole fish with a lemongrass-tomato sauce, vegetables and fresh fruit for dessert. Other meals were equally elaborate but none as elegant and delicious in its simplicity as the first lunch.

On our first day, we kayaked en masse with the other tour groups within the bay – there were probably 20 other boats anchored in the same place as us. Unlike most tourists who only booked a single night, we were able to venture out farther into the bay on our second day – and for the most part we did not see other kayaks. We had a peaceful day exploring the bay and the caves, and navigating through tunnels with our tour guide Hai. We kayaked for about 3 hours before lunch with only one misadventure: One of the tunnels is about 40 meters – making a sharp turn after the first 3 meters which blocks all outside light – demands a light to navigate. We did not have any lights but our tour guide was convinced we could make it through. I was hesitant, but didn’t want to be the party-pooper… Emily seemed okay and I knew that Hai had been leading tours in the bay for over 3 years and knew each tunnel like the back of his hand. After about 20 meters in, in pitch black darkness (I’m recalling my first experience with pitch black in Hezekiah’s tunnel with my Dad), after a few head bonks on the ceiling of the tunnel, it became clear that Hai didn’t know his way around the tunnel as well as I had hoped. Our saving grace was the two cell phones Hai was carrying. No, we couldn’t make any calls for help. But we were able to generate enough light from the display screens to determine our location and begin to navigate out. We fumbled for about 20 minutes before we saw the light at the end of our tunnel.

In the afternoon, we kayaked through a floating village. These villages started to appear 3 generations ago when fishermen began building sleeping accommodation for their stints at sea. About 200 families now live in houses built on barges in the bay. They have little canoes to traverse the bay to each others’ homes, the school, temple or tavern. The school only goes for 5 years. For these fishing families, they value of education is not appreciated. Why should it? They live happily amidst the outcroppings with a simple lifestyle. Their main sources of income are seafood and selling snacks and water to the tourists.

On our third day, we cruised back to the mainland and made our way down to Hoi An. Hoi An is a quaint, “ancient” village flanked by the South China Sea and Hoi An River. It is one of the few places in Vietnam that has not been destroyed by war. As such, many of the homes and buildings are several hundreds of years old, and make for interesting exploring. The central part of town is blocked off to cars so the town is infinitely more pleasant to walk around than Saigon on Hanoi.

We stayed at the Victoria Resort and Spa, about 5 kilometers outside of town. We enjoyed morning walks along China Beach and afternoons sunning by the pool.

We took a morning excursion to My Son – the ruins of a Champa Center that thrived between the 4th and 13th centuries. The culture blended Hinduism and Buddhism, which is illustrated in the remains. While much of the ruin have been preserved or restored, there have been, by my interpretation, some “excavation mishaps.” The brick that the Champa used to build their temples had a special resin that held it all together and resisted moss, even over 800 years later. Archaeologists have not been able to recreate this – the restored bricks are covered with moss after just a few years and have begun to crumble. Other structures were covered by aluminum hangers for the excavation and restoration. They discovered that when the old bricks dried, they began to irreparably crumble. Uncovering them, exposing them again to the elements, was not enough to reverse the erosion. Two major structures whither under their protective roofs.

In Hoi An, I took a second cooking class which was far and away better than the class in Hanoi. The class included a market tour, a river boat ride to the school which was several kilometers from the center of town, the cooking demonstration, followed by a sit down dinner. I already knew how to make the fresh spring/salad rolls and the bahn xeo, but I really wanted to learn how to make the rice paper. Finally, I had my opportunity. The batter is made by pureeing raw (soaked) rice with water. Cotton is stretch across a pot of boiling water and is the cooking surface for the paper. A ladle of batter is spread on the cotton and steamed for one minute. The rice paper can be rolled immediately into spring rolls, cut into noodles or stuffed with a savory stuffing (like my breakfast noodles in Hanoi). Alternatively, the rice paper can be dried on bamboo to be used another time.

Just beyond the hotel, in the delta of the Hoi An river are coconut groves. The coconut palms create a maze of canals within the river. During the “American” war (as the Vietnamese call it), the Viet Cong would hide in the groves, underwater, using hallowed bamboo to breathe. A fishing village lines the river. On a afternoon tour of the groves and river, we paddled in a round bamboo basket boat, and got a lesson in “industrial” fishing. We cast smaller nets and used a mechanical pulley to reel in the larger nets. At the end of our tour, we feasted on a meal of fresh seafood prepared by our boat’s captain – another star meal: Fried Shrimp Spring Rolls, Stuffed Squid with a Tamarind, Peanut Sauce, and an excellent Banh Xeo.

Hoi An was a great town to walk and explore. The central market is manageably mellow; you can even find women with a Karaoke machine… The fish market is on the shores of the river, on the southern edge of the market. And there are plenty of clothes, sundries and tchotchke shopping. Most people have cloths custom made in Hoi An, but I passed on this experience.

After Hoi An, we returned to Saigon to catch our flight back to the states. But not before we detoured to the Mekong Delta, 3 hours west of the city. The shores of the delta are dense with homes, stores and factories. Floating markets drift along the waterways – boats selling produce wholesale. The fertile soil and mild climate allow its inhabitants to grow a plethora of fruits and vegetables year-round. They make coconut candies and rice paper to export throughout the country. They use the coconut shells to carve spoons and other cooking utensils. The left-over rice husks and coconut shells feed the flames used to cook the candies and rice papers. The left over rice from making the rice paper is fermented into chest-hair-inducing rice wine. While this water-way was not as aesthetically beautiful like Halong Bay or the Coconut Groves in Hoi An, it oozed plenty of charm and intrigue.

Other random thoughts:
The street food was the best food we ate and also the cheapest. A breakfast bowl of pho or ban cha was $1.50 USD. The banh mi pate – a satisfying sandwich on crusty French bread with pate, mayonnaise, pickled vegetables, cilantro and chilies – only $.60

Restaurant meals were less consistent, we had some great meals, and some mediocre. And they typically cost closer to $40 USD for the two of us.

Miraculously and gratefully, we managed to stay healthy despite a heavy dose of street food and raw vegetables.

Labels: personal, vietnam

----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:

Anonymous DATE:1/25/2009 08:16:00 PM Your photos and notes bring back many memories of our travels in Vietnam 12 years ago. The heat, traffic, noise, craziness of Saigon; the wonderful small scale of Hoi An; the relative cool and calm of Hanoi... all places I'm glad to have visited, though Saigon left me feeling glad to have survived it. I hope to revisit Hoi An and Hanoi again some day. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:

PG DATE:1/25/2009 11:45:00 PM Great trip report! Nice to put a face to the blog too. Your days kayaking around the bay sound amazing. I would be completely freaked out about being in a pitch dark cave though - overactive imagination issues. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:

Unknown DATE:1/26/2009 08:21:00 AM Sounds like you had a terrific time! I'm looking forward to our debate on how to kill a fish (I'm a fan of slamming it in the fridge door) ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:

Unknown DATE:2/06/2009 05:16:00 PM I really enjoyed "revisiting" Saigon and Hanoi through your writings! We want to go back along the coast to the other places you visited so now we have tips! I would add that we enjoyed the colonial atmosphere (those French really have a special flair!) of the Saigon Saigon Bar on top of the 5th floor in the Caravelle Hotel (open air) and the Metropole Hotel in Hanoi - I would go back just to see that lovely place!

Jill Ernst - New Canaan CT ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:

Unknown DATE:1/18/2010 07:29:00 PM Thank you for sharing your travel adventures to Viet Name here. I haven't been back to visit since my family left in 1975 and I'm very excited to go next spring. ----- --------