AUTHOR: Julia TITLE: The Staples of Life (Recipes: Panzanella and Strata) DATE: 9/08/2009 10:06:00 AM ----- BODY:

By some strange miracle, the blight never struck my tiny patch of soil. In fact, I have more tomatoes than in any other year before. This year, when I transplanted the tomatoes in the spring, I recalled a friend's advice: Prune the bottom two leaves and bury the root mound deeper than usual to allow for extra root growth and stability. Could this have made the difference? Thankfully, friends are quite enthusiastic about relieving me of my bounty.

Every meal this week has a variation of tomatoes, basil, bread and mozzarella. Who knew you could make so many different variations with the same four ingredients.

Panzanella...

Bruschetta...

Strata...

Panzanella
Recipes abound for panzanella. Most suggest that stale bread needs to be soaked in water and then squeezed out. I don't fully understand the purpose of this step -- obviously, the bread needs to soften up. But why not soften it in tomato juice?

2 cups cubed bread -- stale or toasted
1 large cucumber
1 tsp. salt
2 tomatoes
8 oz. fresh mozzarella
fresh basil, chopped
2 tbs. extra virgin olive oil
salt and pepper to taste

1. Slice cucumbers. Toss with salt and let sit for 30 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, cube tomatoes and set aside in a small bowl. Cube mozzarella.
3. Drain excess water off of the cucumbers.
4. The tomatoes should start to give off water after 15 minutes of sitting. Take this liquid and toss with bread cubes.
5. Mix the remaining ingredients together just before serving. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper to taste.

Tomato Mozzarella Strata
Strata is a breakfast dish, similar to a quiche or frittata.

3 tbs. butter
4 slices bread
3 eggs
1 cup milk
1/2 tsp salt
3 tbs. fresh herbs: basil, scallions, tarragon and/or parsley
1 tbs. finely diced celery
2 tomatoes, sliced
8 oz. ball fresh mozzarella, sliced

1. Melt butter in a 9" x 9" pyrex dish. Lay bread slices on top of melted butter.
2. In a mixing bowl, combine eggs, milk, herbs and celery. Season salt.
3. Pour egg mix over the bread.
4. Layer tomatoes and basil on top. Sprinkle with a little extra salt and pepper for seasoning.
5. Bake at 350 for 45 minutes or until eggs are set. Serving immediately.

Labels: breakfast, salad, tomatoes

----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:

T.W. Barritt at Culinary Types DATE:9/08/2009 08:45:00 PM I love the look of the strata - beautiful! And, so glad somebody had good luck with tomatoes. I was at the green market the other day, and there are some there, but they looked pretty spotty. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:

noble pig DATE:9/09/2009 01:14:00 PM I've been reading about blight everywhere. Glad you survived it to make this lovely dish. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:

adele DATE:9/10/2009 09:03:00 AM Oooh. I had a wonderful strata with sausage and green chiles a few months ago, and I've been wondering if I could do a vegetarian version with tomatoes. This looks great! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:

we are never full DATE:9/13/2009 10:49:00 AM OH

my

GOD.

THAT STRATA!! gimme a piece...now!

our first batch of tomatoes had the blight and the second batch we got didn't - it was a weird summer all around. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:

PG DATE:9/16/2009 04:24:00 PM "Prune the bottom two leaves and bury the root mound deeper than usual to allow for extra root growth and stability"...I'm having a hard time visualizing this.

I think I should change up my usual Caprese salad and try the Panzanella instead. Would you squeeze the tomato sauce out of the bread afterwards? Maybe that's a silly question...but I'm just wondering if you treat the tomato sauce like water. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:

Julia DATE:9/17/2009 09:14:00 AM T.W. -- literally, spotty? My end of season tomatoes definitely have a few spots on them.

noble pig -- me too! I think I had some blight, but managed to contain it.

adele -- that sounds delicious too!

WANF -- that's great you had time to plant a second round.

Psychgrad -- Have you noticed on tomato stems little hairs/fuzz. The deeper you plant the seedling, the more of the fuzz that turns into roots. More roots, greater ability to absorb nutrients from the soil.

And I didn't squeeze the tomato water out. Truthfully, I don't understand the purpose of that step at all. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:

PG DATE:9/20/2009 08:46:00 PM Sorta get the idea...I'll probably be emailing you with questions when it comes time to plant my garden. ----- -------- AUTHOR: Julia TITLE: Camel-Chini (Recipe: Zucchini Bread) DATE: 9/04/2009 09:08:00 AM ----- BODY:

I have few memories of the year my family lived in Israel when I was 3-years old. But I remember the memories, and they have tinted the stories of my childhood when we were back in the States. The Passover story, recited every year at the Seders around the globe, tells of the Jews’ exodus from Egypt during the time of Pharoh. For most of my youth, I thought we were actually part of that exodus – and that’s why we were in Israel. And when my father served us camel-chini at dinner, instead of the usual zoo-chini, it made sense that we would eat that because we used to live in the Middle East.

When I returned to my garden after a week on the farm, I didn’t know what to expect. I forgot to follow the weather to see if it rained, though I believe the temperatures were a scorching 90+ for several days. Would the tomatoes wither from the blight? Would I finally have zucchini? And would my tiny little lettuce seedlings that I planted the week before survive?

I had two zucchinis the size of baseball bats. Maybe these were the storied camel-chini of my youth? I immediately sliced up the first for that night’s dinner. It was tough and woody – not pleasing at all. With all sorts of zucchini bread recipes popping up all over the blog-o-sphere, I realized that grating was the only way to combat the texture.

Yesterday, I tore out the zucchini plant. While I had hopes of a bumper crop, I only harvested those two overgrown specimens. And I’ve come to realize this happens because of where I planted the seeds. I’m so concerned about overgrown plants, peddling zucchini plants on my street, that I plant them in the least sunny patch of the garden. And with the torrential rains this summer, I discovered that location also gets the most run-off. If I’m to plant zucchini again, I need to commit to a sunnier location.

Zucchini Bread
from Morning Glory Farm Cookbook, via Dine and Dish

2 to 2 1/2 cups shredded zucchini
1 cup vegetable oil
3 eggs
1 tsp vanilla
2 cups sugar
3 cups all purpose flour
1 tsp baking soda
1/4 tsp baking powder
1 tsp salt
1 tsp cinnamon

Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Spray two 9″ x 5″ bread pans with nonstick spray.

In a large mixing bowl, combine zucchini, oil, eggs, and vanilla. Mix thoroughly.
Beat sugar into mix until it is thoroughly creamed.

Once liquids and sugar are well mixed, add flour, baking soda, baking powder, salt, and cinnamon. Mix until batter is well blended and even in texture. The batter should be smooth, outside the zucchini shreds. If it’s not, add a little juice from the zucchini.
Pour batter evenly into pans.

Bake for approximately 1 hour, or until bread is brown and springs back when gently pressed in the middle.

Labels: bread, breakfast, Jewish

----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:

noble pig DATE:9/04/2009 10:17:00 AM Thanks for the story, and Camel-chini he-he. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:

T.W. Barritt at Culinary Types DATE:9/04/2009 11:31:00 AM Great story, and interesting learning on the zucchini harvest. I have a similar recipe that uses one cup of whole wheat flower along with the touch of cinnamon. It's really addicting! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:

Steve DATE:9/05/2009 03:40:00 PM I had the same problem with my zoo- chini this year. The skin was like leather, the seeds as big and tough as pumpkin seeds. Not sure whether it was the weather, my picking them too late, or the variety I planted. Very frustrating. This recipe will provide a nice use for the few I have left in the garden. Thanks. ----- -------- AUTHOR: Julia TITLE: Good Morning Vietnam DATE: 1/12/2009 08:32:00 AM ----- BODY:

My favorite part of traveling is exploring other cultures’ cuisine, especially breakfast! I’ve never been a fan of American breakfasts – for me, eggs, pancakes and bacon induce naps within 30 minutes despite copious amounts of coffee. But breakfast abroad… Fried Rice in Bali, Congee with Meatball in Thailand, Salads and Cured Fish in Israel….. is a treat.

In Vietnam, the traditional breakfast is Pho: hot, steaming rice noodle soup with meat and onions, topped with lots of fresh herbs. And despite the hot climate – last week it was hazy, hot and humid – Vietnamese will slurp this dish throughout the day.

On my first morning in Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City as it’s formally called), I scouted out places for breakfast. I wanted to find a café/restaurant that seemed busy with locals (I wasn’t quite ready to order straight from a street vendor) – an indication that the food was fresh and tasty. I had been told that the side condiments of hoisin and sriracha were an American invention, and indeed we did not see any on the table. Instead we saw fresh sliced chilies and garlic soaking in fish sauce. With each bowl is served a side plate of more herbs: a combination of basil, cilantro, recao (or long cilantro) and bean sprouts. We also had fried crullers, which we saw people dipping into their soup. They tasted stale to me, and to my taste did not add to the experience. On the first morning I was hesitant to add the fresh herbs (I am leery of eating anything that isn't peeled or cooked, especially on the first day). I enjoyed my soup that had slivers of ginger. Most shops sell pho for 20,000 Dong (about $1.25 USD)
Each noodle shop has its own secret recipe for the broth, and variation on the herbs. But you can count on the bowl being a balance of Yin and Yang – hot and cold foods. The broth, with its meat, onions and ginger are hot (yang) and the fresh herbs, sprouts and lime are cool (yin). The noodles are balanced, and all together this dish is in harmony.

Perhaps the best bowl of Pho was in the outskirts of Hanoi. This version was laced with slivers of kaffir lime leaves which gave the broth brightness. And by this time, I was less hesitant of adding plenty fresh herbs. A few places served hoisin and chili sauce on the side… had this been a Western transplant?

How to eat Pho

The soup is served with a plate of garnishes so you can season the soup just as you like it. I prefer extra scallions, basil, bean sprouts, chilies and a good squeeze of lime. Some people add extra fish sauce and cilantro. In some places you will see dishes of hoisin and sriracha. Add these to your taste. Whatever you like, just stir it in with your chopsticks.

Pho is a two handed meal. With your dominant hand (for me, it's left), hold the chopsticks and in your other hand a spoon. Pull up the noodles with your chopsticks and slurp (or shovel). Eat a spoon of broth. Alternatively, pull up the noodles with your chopsticks and use the spoon to help guide the noodles into your mouth. I try to alternative between bites of noodles and slurps of broth so that I keep everything balanced throughout the bowl.

During the second week of my trip, I ventured into Banh Mi Pate – another popular breakfast treat. [[ This is very much street food, in that the vegetables are raw and unpeeled and the meats are not refrigerated. If you have a weak traveler’s stomach you may want to avoid this.]] I had enjoyed this sandwich in the US, but always assumed it was a lunch treat. One of the few dishes that’s a holdover from the French occupation, this sandwich combines pork pates and cured hams with pickled carrots and daikon. With sprigs of cilantro and slices of chilies, this sandwich has a decidedly Vietnamese feel. To give it an extra Vietnamese touch, the pates are wrapped in lotus leaves before they are cooked. If you thought Pho was a deal, this is a scream – only 10,000 Dong - about 60 cents!

Labels: breakfast, vietnam

----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:

jesse DATE:1/12/2009 10:46:00 AM Mmm, pho has got to be one of my favourite dishes!! I am so jealous that you're in Vietnam and get to eat pho for breakfast! =D Take more pictures of the food so I can pretend I'm there eating with you! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:

PG DATE:1/12/2009 02:03:00 PM Are you in Vietnam now or are you recalling a previous trip? Pho for breakfast would be a bit of a shift for me. I like the standard North American-style breakfast, although I do question whether R puts sleeping pills in my food when he makes a big breakfast.

Thank you for the information about how to eat Pho. I'm always a bit unsure about how to deal with all of the sides they give with the soup. I like my soup boiling hot, yet don't want to miss out on the flavours the cold ingredients bring. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:

Wandering Chopsticks DATE:1/12/2009 05:02:00 PM Maybe it's a west coast thing? Most VNese pho restaurants are open early for breakfast. We even have 24-hour pho restaurants in SoCal. :) ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:

Anonymous DATE:1/12/2009 11:03:00 PM This post reminds me of many bowls of pho eaten on the streets of Saigon, Hoi An, Hue and Hanoi. Sadly, soon after returning to the US, I was back to bowls of cereal for breakfast. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:

Anonymous DATE:1/24/2009 02:21:00 AM Yes, PHO!!! Thank you for telling everyone that it's a two handed affair. We made a video of how to eat pho and that's the first thing we cover, how to eat it with two hands!

Yes, hoisin and sriracha is a Westernized invention. When I go back home and visit my family (all throughout VN) they laugh at hoisin and sriracha. The Vietnamese expats that go back to VN ask for it, but locals don't have it! ----- -------- AUTHOR: Julia TITLE: Garden to Table: Raspberries DATE: 7/18/2008 01:09:00 PM ----- BODY:

The raspberries are starting to kick into high gear. I’m yet not harvesting enough in any given two day period – which is as long as I can keep them before I start snacking on them -- to make a pie or other berry-laden dessert. I do have enough to significantly embellish muffins or pancakes, which is what I did this morning.

Raspberries grow on thorny sprays of branches. Ripe ones hide under the foliage. To make sure I find all the ripe ones before they mold or rot, I have to inspect the plant from many angles: pushing away branches, lifting leaves and getting behind the plant. With careful inspection, I filled a 6 ounce ramekin with berries in 5 minutes.

I only wash the berries just before using them; otherwise the rotting process is hastened.

My favorite pancake recipe comes from The Joy of Cooking.

1 1/2 cups flour
1 tsp. salt
3 tbs. sugar
1 tbs. baking powder
1 ½ cup milk
2 eggs, lightly beaten
3 tbs. melted butter
Butter for cooking as needed.

1. Sift dry ingredients together into a bowl and make a well in the center.

2. Mix wet ingredients. Pour into well of dry ingredients. Mix until just incorporated.

3. Heat pan over medium heat. Add butter. Ladle in about 2 oz. of batter per pancake. Cook for about 3 minutes. Flip, continue cooking. Serve immediately, or keep warm in a 200 oven until ready to serve.

For the raspberry pancakes, I dot each spoon of batter with berries.