AUTHOR: Julia TITLE: The Other Pantry (Recipe: Celery Caesar) DATE: 11/06/2009 09:31:00 AM ----- BODY:

I planted celery this summer, not because I love celery as a side vegetable or even eaten as a snack with peanut butter (I’m allergic to nuts), but because it’s a staple in so many recipes. Celery is a key component in the French “mirepoix”, the mix of aromatic vegetables that give flavor to soups, broths and stews. The Chinese also add celery to stir-fries. And I regularly use a stalk or two in chicken or tuna salad.  I always have celery in the pantry -- whether it's the crisper drawer of the fridge or the garden outside.

But for all of celery’s uses, I never need more than a stalk or two at a time. With celery in the garden, I can cut off what I need without harming the plant. Instead of a buying whole head at the supermarket, and watching it wilt in the vegetable draw, I can preserve the plant through the entire summer. I bought 6 plants for about $2.50. And I still have 3 full heads.

Growing Celery
This is the third year I’ve grown celery, and by far this was the most successful. As an experiment, I planted 3 seedlings in the garden and 3 in a planter box on the deck. Neither reached “supermarket” size, but the plants on the deck were decidedly smaller and slightly anemic despite the extra sun in its location.

The celery in the garden had proper spacing… at least 18 inches between plants. They grew larger than any other year… and height-wise, they looked good. The ribs were thin with brown streaks. I attribute the brown stalks to the excess rain we had this summer. Also the celery was not in a particularly sunny spot, which probably contributed to its stunted growth.

When I harvested a plant this morning it looked like 10 small heads had sprouted from the one plant. I wonder if I should have harvested a “mini-head” at a time instead of a stalk at a time. I’ll have to experiment with that next year.


In the meantime, winter is looming. We’ve already had our first snow-fall, and who knows when we’ll get the next. I’ve become more aggressive about using celery, not just as an aromatic in cooking but as a featured ingredient.

Buried deep in my files of recipes, I found a recipe for “Celery Caesar” from Daniele Baliani, a chef I knew in Boston a long time ago…


A Very Celery Caesar… Shavings of Pecorino and Celery Dressing
adapted from Daniele Baliani

Salad
4 large stalks of celery, sliced thin
2 cups of mixed lettuce leaves – including romaine, arugula and/or mesclun mix
1 small bulb of celeriac, peeled, julienned and blanched
¼ cup grated Pecorino Romano
salt and pepper to taste

Dressing
2 stalks celery
½ bunch parsley
½ bunch basil
3 tbs. extra virgin olive oil
½ lemon, juiced
¼ cup warm water
1 tbs. fresh chopped garlic
1 tbs. Dijon mustard
6 inner hearts of celery with the leaves
2 oz. Pecorino shavings
4 slices white bread for croutons

1. Heat a large pot of water to a boil. Season with salt. While waiting for the water to boil, set aside an ice bath. When the water boils, Add from the dressing ingredient list the celery, parsley and basil. Cook for 30 seconds, remove from heat, and soak in an ice water bath to stop the cooking. Drain well.

2. To make the dressing: place the blanched celery, parsley, basil, olive oil, water garlic, mustard and lemon juice in a blender. Over medium speed, puree until smooth and bright green.

3. In a large salad bowl, combine the thin slices of celery, lettuces and julienne of celeriac. Add the grated Pecorino and toss the dressing. Adjust seasoning.

4. Cut the white bread into triangles and brush with a little oil and Pecorino and bake at 350 for 15 minutes or until crispy and nutty brown.

5. To assemble: Divide the salad onto small plates and garnish with croutons. Top it all off with dressed celery leaves and drizzle more of the green dressing for a dramatic finish








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----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger T.W. Barritt at Culinary Types DATE:11/06/2009 12:34:00 PM How great to have celery "for the picking" right in the garden! I, too, struggle with the fact that it adds a nice crunch to so many recipes, but when you buy it at the supermarket most of it goes to waste. I like the option for one stalk at a time. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger My Chef Regina DATE:11/06/2009 09:29:00 PM I want to try celery in the garden. I never see it at the local farmers market (not a very adventurous one), and wonder if it's fussy to grow in this area. I'm in Maryland ... do you know if your friends at Even' Star grow it? ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous Lydia (The Perfect Pantry) DATE:11/06/2009 10:08:00 PM Because celery has such a high water content, it's hard to find a way to preserve it, other than making and freezing celery soup. I'm sure I compost as much celery as I actually use; it often goes bad in the crisper drawer after I've taken the first few stalks off. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Julia DATE:11/07/2009 06:56:00 AM T.W. -- Sometimes I see individual stalks of celery available at the market...

Regina -- I don't think it's fussy, but I also don't think Brett grows it. Alas, it doesn't have the same market-appeal as basil or tomatoes.

Lydia -- I like the idea of freezing celery juice, but to T.W.'s point, part of the appeal of celery is the crunch.

You give me an idea -- I wonder if I can freeze celery packed in water/ice. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger adele DATE:11/07/2009 11:01:00 PM I don't particularly like celery as anything but a seasoning (can't stand it in stir-fry, much to my mother's dismay), but this sounds pretty good! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Heather DATE:11/07/2009 11:14:00 PM i don't love celery's taste, but i do love it's crunch. it's such a nice addition to so many things - including this recipe. mmm :) ----- -------- AUTHOR: Julia TITLE: The Staples of Life (Recipes: Panzanella and Strata) DATE: 9/08/2009 10:06:00 AM ----- BODY:
By some strange miracle, the blight never struck my tiny patch of soil. In fact, I have more tomatoes than in any other year before. This year, when I transplanted the tomatoes in the spring, I recalled a friend's advice: Prune the bottom two leaves and bury the root mound deeper than usual to allow for extra root growth and stability. Could this have made the difference? Thankfully, friends are quite enthusiastic about relieving me of my bounty.

Every meal this week has a variation of tomatoes, basil, bread and mozzarella. Who knew you could make so many different variations with the same four ingredients.

Panzanella...

Bruschetta...

Strata...

Panzanella
Recipes abound for panzanella. Most suggest that stale bread needs to be soaked in water and then squeezed out. I don't fully understand the purpose of this step -- obviously, the bread needs to soften up. But why not soften it in tomato juice?

2 cups cubed bread -- stale or toasted
1 large cucumber
1 tsp. salt
2 tomatoes
8 oz. fresh mozzarella
fresh basil, chopped
2 tbs. extra virgin olive oil
salt and pepper to taste

1. Slice cucumbers. Toss with salt and let sit for 30 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, cube tomatoes and set aside in a small bowl. Cube mozzarella.
3. Drain excess water off of the cucumbers.
4. The tomatoes should start to give off water after 15 minutes of sitting. Take this liquid and toss with bread cubes.
5. Mix the remaining ingredients together just before serving. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper to taste.

Tomato Mozzarella Strata
Strata is a breakfast dish, similar to a quiche or frittata.

3 tbs. butter
4 slices bread
3 eggs
1 cup milk
1/2 tsp salt
3 tbs. fresh herbs: basil, scallions, tarragon and/or parsley
1 tbs. finely diced celery
2 tomatoes, sliced
8 oz. ball fresh mozzarella, sliced

1. Melt butter in a 9" x 9" pyrex dish. Lay bread slices on top of melted butter.
2. In a mixing bowl, combine eggs, milk, herbs and celery. Season salt.
3. Pour egg mix over the bread.
4. Layer tomatoes and basil on top. Sprinkle with a little extra salt and pepper for seasoning.
5. Bake at 350 for 45 minutes or until eggs are set. Serving immediately.

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----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger T.W. Barritt at Culinary Types DATE:9/08/2009 08:45:00 PM I love the look of the strata - beautiful! And, so glad somebody had good luck with tomatoes. I was at the green market the other day, and there are some there, but they looked pretty spotty. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous noble pig DATE:9/09/2009 01:14:00 PM I've been reading about blight everywhere. Glad you survived it to make this lovely dish. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger adele DATE:9/10/2009 09:03:00 AM Oooh. I had a wonderful strata with sausage and green chiles a few months ago, and I've been wondering if I could do a vegetarian version with tomatoes. This looks great! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous we are never full DATE:9/13/2009 10:49:00 AM OH

my

GOD.

THAT STRATA!! gimme a piece...now!

our first batch of tomatoes had the blight and the second batch we got didn't - it was a weird summer all around. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger PG DATE:9/16/2009 04:24:00 PM "Prune the bottom two leaves and bury the root mound deeper than usual to allow for extra root growth and stability"...I'm having a hard time visualizing this.

I think I should change up my usual Caprese salad and try the Panzanella instead. Would you squeeze the tomato sauce out of the bread afterwards? Maybe that's a silly question...but I'm just wondering if you treat the tomato sauce like water. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Julia DATE:9/17/2009 09:14:00 AM T.W. -- literally, spotty? My end of season tomatoes definitely have a few spots on them.

noble pig -- me too! I think I had some blight, but managed to contain it.

adele -- that sounds delicious too!

WANF -- that's great you had time to plant a second round.

Psychgrad -- Have you noticed on tomato stems little hairs/fuzz. The deeper you plant the seedling, the more of the fuzz that turns into roots. More roots, greater ability to absorb nutrients from the soil.

And I didn't squeeze the tomato water out. Truthfully, I don't understand the purpose of that step at all. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger PG DATE:9/20/2009 08:46:00 PM Sorta get the idea...I'll probably be emailing you with questions when it comes time to plant my garden. ----- -------- AUTHOR: Julia TITLE: The First Tomato (Recipe: Israeli Salad) DATE: 7/24/2009 09:06:00 AM ----- BODY:
Some people mark the start of summer at Memorial Day, others on June 21st. For me, summer officially begins with the first tomato from the garden.

Though the first tomato appeared in early June, the miserable rains and cool weather that followed thwarted any chance of an early July first harvest. A few weeks off “schedule,” I’m picking the first tomato.

Of course, one tomato does not make a salad, much less a meal. Thankfully, on the same day the first cucumber is large enough to pick also.

With a few scallions and fresh dill, I have all the fixings for a favorite summertime salad, and enough to serve as a side for dinner.

Israeli Salad
In Israel, this salad of chopped tomatoes and cucumbers is usually served at breakfast with smoked, cured or pickled fish. It’s also a great condiment for falafel, or tossed with Israeli Cous Cous for a refreshing side salad. This recipe is also featured in Even’ Star Organic Farm’s Summer Cookbook.

2 of your favorite heirloom tomatoes
1 small cucumbers
3 scallions
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 ½ teaspoon fresh dill or lemon basil
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper


1. Coarsely chop tomatoes. Toss with salt and pepper. Let sit for 5 minutes

2. Meanwhile, coarsely chop cucumbers (unpeeled).

3. Drain excess liquid from tomatoes. Toss with remaining ingredients.

4. Adjust seasoning to taste with salt, pepper, lemon and/or olive oil.

Garden to Table: 10 minutes

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----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Katie DATE:7/24/2009 03:43:00 PM I like the idea for the salad, and I definitely agree that summer hasn't arrived until the tomatoes do. Mine are nowhere near ripe (but are very cute!) due to the cold weather we've had for the last few months. I'm trying to be patient, but at this rate I may not get any until the leaves start changing! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Karen DATE:7/24/2009 06:16:00 PM I love the "garden to table" metric!

There'a a lone tomato haning onto one of my plants, but with this weather I doubt it'll ever ripen. I do have a cuke, though, and some scallions...so if I can snag a local tomato this weekend, this salad will be on the menu! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger T.W. Barritt at Culinary Types DATE:7/24/2009 10:29:00 PM You've got your first tomatoes! How wonderful - I can't wait! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous noble pig DATE:7/25/2009 10:43:00 AM I love breakfast salads like this and from the garden...even better. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger adele DATE:7/26/2009 04:32:00 AM How have I never seen this salad before? I love the combination of tomatoes and dill... I am definitely trying this once I'm back in the Northern Hemisphere! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous Lydia (The Perfect Pantry) DATE:7/28/2009 11:07:00 PM I have tomatoes, but not a single ripe one yet. This summer has been tough on the garden here in RI; your little gem of a garden is way ahead of mine. The salad looks wonderful, and nothing tastes better than the first salad of the year. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger giz DATE:7/29/2009 08:48:00 AM I so remember this salad as breakfast fare on the kibbutz and still make it to this day - such a fresh salad. ----- -------- AUTHOR: Julia TITLE: Harvesting Lettuce DATE: 5/14/2009 09:20:00 AM ----- BODY:
I planted lettuce seeds on March 5th (or so) and harvested my first salad less than 60 days later. The lettuce patch is now in full production, and I’m cutting about a gallon of lettuce every other day – a mix of arugula, mizuna, tatsoi and green leaf.

I grow lettuces for many reasons, but the big one is the yield I get for the square footage. Lettuce falls into the category of “cut and come again.” Meaning, after I harvest a salad, the lettuce will sprout new leaves. By contrast, plants like broccoli yield one head per plant. Better still, I can plant 6 – 12 “heads” of lettuce in the same area that a single head of broccoli would require. To harvest: cut about 1 ½ inches above the root base, leaving the smallest leaves intact. Immediately put the lettuce in water to keep it from wilting irreparably. I usually take a large bowl with some water out to the garden -- as I cut the lettuce, I toss it with the water.

A friend made an interesting commentary about growing lettuce – it’s one of the few crops that can’t be preserved for the colder months. With so much lettuce, I’ve been able to share with my neighbors – for Tommy and Paul, and for the neighbors that snow-blow my driveway in the winter.

Despite the profusion of lettuce, I’m not ready to drown out the flavors with an intense dressing. I simply season with olive oil and lemon juice, and perhaps freshly shaved Parmigiano-reggiano and prosciutto.

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----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous Anonymous DATE:5/14/2009 11:09:00 AM Looking forward to seeing you later. I'd love some of your lettuce. love, Mom ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous noble pig DATE:5/14/2009 12:38:00 PM It sounds delicious and such a treat to have in the yard! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous Stephanie DATE:5/14/2009 03:55:00 PM We've only just put our garden bed together, so lettuce seeds will go in quite late. BUT I'm definitely looking forward to it.

I just wanted to comment on broccoli--if you don't cut it all down, but just cut off the head and some stem, you'll get tons of mini broccoli's for the rest of the summer. They are delicious! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous Lydia (The Perfect Pantry) DATE:5/14/2009 04:38:00 PM Lucky neighbors! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Julia DATE:5/14/2009 05:33:00 PM Mom -- me too!

noble pig -- it really is!

Stephanie -- thanks for the tips about broccoli. Maybe I'll give it another chance.

Lydia -- I share with friends too -- happy to give you some next time you're in town. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Heather DATE:5/14/2009 07:11:00 PM love all these fresh veggies you're coming out with. freshly harvested lettuce must be wonderful! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Karen DATE:5/15/2009 09:56:00 PM I second Stephanie's comment re: broccoli. Last year I harvested the side shoots from 5 plants all summer long, until there were too many too keep up with and some of them flowered (it got a little bitter after that). Broccoli does really well in my Malden garden! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Julia DATE:5/16/2009 06:55:00 AM Heather -- do you have room to grow veggies?

Karen -- Okay, you've convinced me! I'll try broccoli again. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous Foodiemommy\ DATE:5/18/2009 04:43:00 PM Your blog has such great photos and stories that I have become a devoted reader. Is it still too late to plant lettuce seeds and can you do it in pots? My sons and I are creating our first "garden!" ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Julia DATE:5/19/2009 06:51:00 AM Foodie Mommie -- So glad you're enjoying the blog!

You could plant lettuce, but it's getting a little late. It takes about 60 days and will be too hot then. I'd suggest going for the cucumbers -- which kids LOVE to pick, and tomatoes. You can start lettuce again in August. ----- -------- AUTHOR: Julia TITLE: Rejuvenating Salad DATE: 4/27/2009 03:33:00 AM ----- BODY:
Once a year, I retreat to Kripalu in the Berkshires of Western, MA for a weekend of yoga, relaxing and cleansing. The tranquil setting offers a respite from all the toxins of my urban lifestyle – noise, pollution, decadent eating and drinking.

I make no pretense that I would embrace this lifestyle in its entirety on a regular basis -- though I very much enjoy the elements. But every once in a while, it feels great to refresh my body. I relinquish wine and red meat in favor of the light cuisine they offer in the cafeteria. Honestly, it’s the quintessential “granola-crunchy-health” food. I never cook this way at home, but it tastes great, and I feel refreshed after eating like I never do after a meal of foie gras and truffles.

I have no plans for visiting Kripalu in the near future, but definitely need a little detoxing – especially after Taste of the Nation and Foie Gras Three-Ways. A friend just unearthed the recipe their famous salad dressing. I made a salad full of virtuous ingredients. After this meal, I feel light and rejuvenated.

Salad
(Serves 2 an invigorating lunch)

2 cups arugula or baby spinach
1 small can tuna fish, drained
½ cup cooked chickpeas
2 tablespoons sunflower seeds
2 tablespoons dried cranberries
1 cup steamed broccoli.

Kripalu Dressing
1 cup sunflower oil or grape seed oil
2 tablespoons toasted sesame oil
¼ cup soy sauce
½ cup lemon juice
⅓ cup sesame tahini
2 cloves garlic
½ tablespoon dry mustard powder
½ teaspoon salt
½ tablespoon chili powder
pinch cayenne
½ cup water

Combine all ingredients and puree in a blender until smooth. Makes about 2 1/2 cups and lasts for a week in the fridge.

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----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger ChristyACB DATE:4/27/2009 06:22:00 AM The dressing sounds yummy..love those ingredients! Thanks. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger T.W. Barritt at Culinary Types DATE:4/27/2009 08:38:00 AM It was so warm this weekend, that I immediately went for the salad as well - there is something renewing about welcoming the nice weather with beautiful greens! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous noble pig DATE:4/27/2009 12:36:00 PM I love the sunflower seeds and cranberries in here. I'm sure they give it the perfect texture and crunch. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous Lydia (The Perfect Pantry) DATE:4/27/2009 08:25:00 PM After two solid days of making and baking cookies (which I don't even eat), I had to have a salad for dinner tonight. I do feel lighter and refreshed! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Heather DATE:4/27/2009 08:57:00 PM a weekend of yoga and relaxing sounds wonderful! as does this salad!! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Melissa DATE:4/28/2009 04:26:00 PM I remember when I came back from Vegas last year and could not WAIT to eat lean, homemade food. I love the rejuvenation it brings. Lovely salad! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger adele DATE:4/28/2009 09:21:00 PM I've been thinking lately that I need to branch out from basic mustard-oil-vinegar dressings. This seems like a good place to start. :) ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger PG DATE:5/02/2009 05:09:00 PM I could handle a weekend like that. Well...maybe a weekend to sleep first and then a retreat weekend. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger amycaseycooks DATE:5/03/2009 08:24:00 PM I have a huge container of tahini that I only use for hummus. So glad I stumbled upon your recipe for dressing with tahini. I can't wait to make this recipe. ----- -------- AUTHOR: Julia TITLE: Kitchen Tales - Watercress Salad DATE: 11/29/2008 10:44:00 PM ----- BODY:
As a line-cook working in restaurants, I can tell you Saturday nights are ugly. As my old boss, Lydia Shire always said, this one’s for the house. With the majority of the restaurants’ business on one night, we worked at break-neck speed to serve as many dinners as possible. The specials were designed for speed not creativity. By contrast, Sunday nights were for the kitchen. With the head chefs taking the night off, this was my opportunity to try out my menu ideas as specials. It was also a chance to have fun with the staff. The spirit in the kitchen was lively and jovial, unwinding from the craziness of the previous night. Sunday nights we also got a little lazy.

On one Sunday night, I ran out of watercress on my station. I raced to the walk-in refrigerator to get another bunch. And as I ran back to my station, I tried to untwist the rubber-band that held the bunch together. I dressed the watercress, mounded it on the plate and put it in the window. Michael Murphy grabbed the plate to bring to the table. Not five minutes later, Michael returned with the plate and a rubber-band on top. Whoops! Apparently, I had not effectively untwisted the rubber band from the watercress.

To have a little fun, I ran back to the walk-in and pulled the rubber bands off of everything I could find: watercress, scallions, leeks and celery. I mounded them on a plate and garnished it with a sprig of watercress. Into the window, I called Michael back to the kitchen. With my apologies, I said, this is how the salad had meant to be presented.

Michael one-upped me, and served the “salad” to his customers. His guests were very good natured, and we all had a good laugh!

Braised Endive with Watercress and Apple Salad

2 large endive, cut in half lengthwise, or 4 small endive
1 bunch watercress
1 red apple
3/4 cup grated gruyere cheese
2 lemons, juiced
2 tbs. sugar
1 shallot, diced
1 tbs. cider vinegar
3 tbs. extra virgin olive oil
salt and pepper to tastea


1. Put endive in pot with sugar and lemon juice. Cover with water. Season water to taste with salt and pepper, and additional lemon juice or sugar as necessary. Bring water to a boil, reduce heat to simmer. Let endive simmer for 30 minutes, or until tender.

2. Meanwhile, Core and slice apple (do not peel). Toss apples and watercress with vinegar, olive oil and shallots. Season to taste with salt and pepper (and fresh thyme if you’d like).

3. When the endive is tender, remove from liquid. Put endive in an oven-proof dish. Cover with cheese. Melt cheese in oven (350) for 5 minutes.

4. Serve half a large endive, or 1 whole small endive with a small watercress and apple salad.

Watercress Picture comes from Mochachocolatarita.

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----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Heather DATE:11/29/2008 11:22:00 PM cute story :) i'll have to dine out on sundays more - sounds like there's a lot of creativity going on on that day! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous Anonymous DATE:11/30/2008 07:53:00 AM I'm giggling -- and if someone had served a rubber band salad to me, there would have been an extra large tip left at the end of the meal, for a sense of humor! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Julia DATE:12/01/2008 06:22:00 PM Thanks, Heather. I think now, more and more chefs are working Sundays and taking mid-week nights off.

Lydia, I'm sure Michael would have appreciated it! ----- -------- AUTHOR: Julia TITLE: Farmers' Market Report, Part 2: The Beet Goes On DATE: 7/02/2008 08:44:00 AM ----- BODY:
Beets get a bad rap, though I’m not sure where it comes from. Perhaps it’s a hold-over from the days when the only variety available were canned, leaving them mushy, salty and bland. To me, they are a perfect balance of firm, refreshing texture with a sweet, earthy flavor. Best of all, they are nutritious, so I feel downright virtuous when I consume a bowlful like candy.
Last week, beets appeared at the market. They were shamefully small, and I couldn’t imagine there’d be much left after peeling.

As much as I love beets, it seemed the farmers were rushing the process. This week, however, they were decidedly larger. With the greens still attached I know they are freshly harvested -- beets that have been in storage have the tops cut off as they wither in a few days. Like tomatoes, beets come in a variety of colors, shapes and sizes – candy striped with white rings, golden, pink and red. They range in sweetness, the red sometimes cloying by comparison to the lighter colors.


Roasting beets intensifies the flavors and the sweetness. It also makes peeling easier. Before roasting, be sure to scrub the beets well to remove all the dirt. Toss them in some olive oil, wrap in foil, and bake in a 350 oven for an hour or so. Lately, my favorite preparation has been roasted with bacon and onions. While the beets are roasting, I sauté bacon and onions together until the bacon is crisp and the onions are caramelized. When the beets are cooked, I peel and slice them and toss them in the bacon-onion mix. Seasoned with a little lemon juice or mint, they are the perfect accompaniment to salmon (Crusted with pistachios and horseradish) or a pasta carbonara with peas or asparagus. Pureed with a little olive oil or chicken stock, it makes a delightful sauce for just about anything.

Beets with goat cheese are a classic combination. The tart, creaminess of the cheese balances with the sweet, firm texture of the beets. Though, I don’t eat nuts, walnuts add both texture and flavor that some say is the perfect compliment.
Of course, beets stain exceptionally well – hands, cutting boards and clothing. The best remedy is to wash with a paste of cold water and baking soda. Not only does it remove the red from your hands, it leaves them soft as well.




Beets and Goat Cheese Napolean with Buttered Walnuts

1 lb. red beets
2 tbs. olive oil
1 red onion, finely diced
1 tbs. red wine vinegar
1-2 tbs. fresh chopped thyme
4 oz. creamy goat cheese
salt and pepper to taste

1. Put beets in a pot and cover in cold water. Season water with salt. Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat to a simmer. Continue cooking for 30 minutes, or until skins easily peel off.

2. When beets are cooked, cool under cold running water. Peel beets. Slice. Toss beets with red onions, vinegar, olive oil and thyme.

3. Put beets on a plate, and dollop goat cheese on top. Garnish with mesclun and buttered walnuts

Balsamic Mesclun
1 pound mesclun
3 tbs. balsamic vinegar
1 tsp. shallots
1 tsp. thyme
1 tsp. mustard
½ cup + extra virgin olive oil
pinch sugar
salt and pepper to taste

Put balsamic, shallots, thyme and mustard in a blender. Puree. With the motor running, slowly drizzle in the oil. Season to taste with salt, pepper and sugar

Buttered Walnuts
1 cup walnuts
2 or more tbs. butter
salt and pepper

Melt butter in skillet. Toss in walnuts and toast until lightly browned and fragrant. Season with salt and pepper.

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----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Geeky Mama DATE:7/02/2008 10:11:00 AM Thanks for the beets and squash recipes. I love beets, but my husband won't touch them. The bacon might be just the nudge he needs. I've found myself with more seasonal veggies than I know what to do with since getting half a farm share this year. Your site is a great resource for me. Keep the seasonal recipes coming! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Julia DATE:7/02/2008 01:37:00 PM Glad you liked the recipes, Kelly. Bacon does make everything better, so I'm sure you'll be able to entice your husband into trying them. What did you get in your farm share box this week? ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Lydia (The Perfect Pantry) DATE:7/02/2008 02:01:00 PM My husband is a beet fanatic, so it's very possible these napoleons will find their way to my kitchen one of these days. Lovely! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Geeky Mama DATE:7/02/2008 02:35:00 PM My pick-up was last Saturday. We got kale, pretty yellow chard, arugula, spinach, Boston lettuce, Chioggia beets, 1 zucchini, radishes, strawberries, and shell peas. We're barely going to make it through it all before we have another pick-up on Saturday.

I love having fresh veggies, but I really can't handle many more bitter greens. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Julia DATE:7/02/2008 09:54:00 PM Lydia, maybe you can get your husband to talk with Kelly's husband to explain the virtues of beets.

Kelly, good luck finishing your box. Maybe you just need to have more dinner parties? I just had quinoa risotto with wilted greens last night which was fan-tastic! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous Anonymous DATE:7/03/2008 10:16:00 PM I just got some fresh beets from the farmer's market, and used the greens as saag in an indian dish.

I disagree with you on the matter of roasting in foil - I find that merely steams the beets. I prefer roasting them in their own skins, they get gloriously nutty, and the taste mellows quite nicely. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous Anonymous DATE:7/03/2008 10:31:00 PM Nothing beats a good beet, but I've switched to golden (orange?) beets most of the time to cut down on the purple stains all over the house. Although its still fun to use a little red beet to turn an entire pot of rice pink. Do you think they taste the same? ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Julia DATE:7/04/2008 09:47:00 AM bishop22, Your saag sounds great, and I'm sure it was a lovely hue. I have not encountered the steaming problem you suggest with wrapping them in foil.

David, I don't think the beets taste the same. To me the yellow is a little less sweet and more "mellow." ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Geeky Mama DATE:7/08/2008 09:11:00 AM So beets with bacon and onion were a big success with the husband. My only mistake -- running an oven for an hour yesterday (it's very hot and humid here). It was a day that was perhaps better suited to a cold beet salad. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Julia DATE:7/08/2008 10:47:00 AM Kelly, glad to hear the beets were such a success! It was hot yesterday, and cooking on the grill didn't feel much better though the house did stay cool. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous Anonymous DATE:7/11/2009 01:37:00 PM I just returned to my home in Washington, D.C., from a visit with Julia, my (lovely) daughter. For the occasion Julia invited over several other good friends and relatives, and prepared before-dinner "snacks"--her word--to die for: Beets she had grown, and prepared into a beet salad and ricotta she had made, were the stars.

Julia also served crudites with green goddess dressing and marinated mushrooms.
The carrots finely diced and mixed with mushrooms are for me an example of her knife skills. When I say finely diced, I mean little cubes, maybe 3/16ths inch on each side. ----- -------- AUTHOR: Julia TITLE: Garden Updates and Micro Climates DATE: 6/09/2008 09:50:00 AM ----- BODY:
With the record temperatures of this past weekend, I eagerly inspected the garden for transformations from a spring garden to a summer garden. The arugula and mizuna decidedly prefer cooler weather. In this heat, they feverishly bolt and go to seed. Unlike basil, in which you can trim the flowers to prevent this process, lettuces develop thick stalks that are impossible to retract. At the top of the stalks are the buds and flowers that are the precursor to the seeds. Leaves continue to grow, but they become bitter as the season continues. I decided to harvest as much lettuce as possible – the lettuce at this stage will keep longer and better in my refrigerator than in the ground. In the off-chance that I have a few more salads to come from these plants, I harvest in the “cut-and-come-again” method. That is, I cut the leaves just above the smallest leafette – about 2 inches above the soil line. The smallest leaves are spared and given the chance to mature.

The first of the tomato plants started to flower last week. I’m guessing that I have to wait another 4 weeks until the first fruit is ripe. The biggest curiosity of the garden is the basil. Four weeks ago, I purchased a six-pack of basil plants. Since the garden has various degrees of sun and shade, I decided to hedge my bets and plant in different locations. Some plants get more morning sun, others afternoon sun.


Here are two of the plants:












I had heard rumors that morning sun is better than afternoon sun. But intuition told me that afternoon sun would be better for “full-sun” plants like tomatoes and basil because the light is more intense. Given the huge disparity in these two plants, I decided to do a little research.

In the pro-morning sun column: The morning sun is better as it evaporates the morning dew and prevents leaf rot. Afternoon sun can be too intense and burn the plants. In the pro-afternoon sun column: plants that like full sun do better with the intensity of afternoon sun. The best sun is between 11am and 2pm.

More important, I discovered, are the micro-climates. Believe it or not, in my little swatch of land in Central Cambridge, there are at least 10 micro-climates. The variations and sun and temperature come from the obvious: shade providing trees and structures such as houses and fences, and the position in the garden. The bit of garden on the side of the house where the lettuces grow have 4 regions. As witnessed by the vigor of the plants, the center path gets the most sun. On the right side, closest to my house, gets slightly less sun. On the left side, closest to my neighbors gets the least. The front portion gets more than the back.

Less obvious are the reflections from windows. My neighbor behind me has windows that act like mirror to the sun onto my garden. Especially the morning sun hits at just an angle that the plants along the back fence get double duty – direct natural sunlight and the reflection from the windows. The plants in the “afternoon sun” section only get a single dose.

Determining the micro-climates of your garden is a matter of trial and error. Another option is to plant and see what happens. Based on what thrives and dies, you can figure out what works best where. In case you didn’t figure it out, the sickly looking basil was in the afternoon sun section, and the thriving basil was in the morning sun section.

Over the weekend I moved the smaller plants to what I hope to be a better location in the morning sun section.

Balsamic Vinaigrette
All this salad is great to ensure that I get my 5 recommend daily servings of fruits and vegetables. But salad dressing quickly cancels out the benefit with all the fat and calories. Here’s a reduced fat version of the classic balsamic vinaigrette (unlike bottled dressings, this is all natural).

2 shallots
½ cup olive oil
1 tbs. fresh thyme
½ cup balsamic vinegar
½ tsp. sugar
¼ tsp. pepper

1. Peel shallots. Mix with ¼ cup olive oil and wrap in tin foil. Bake for 20-30 minutes, until soft, and nicely roasted

2. In a blender, puree shallots, thyme and vinegar together. If it’s too thick, add a few tablespoons of water. Slowly drizzle in remaining olive oil. Season taste with salt and pepper.

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