AUTHOR: Julia TITLE: Fish Tacos in Paradise DATE: 1/10/2010 07:58:00 PM ----- BODY:


A cross-country road-trip often requires stopping in places one otherwise might not visit. As I drove from DC to San Francisco in 1994, El Paso became an intermediate destination. I pulled into a seemingly clean motel with cheap rooms, and immediately began a quest for dinner. The hotel clerk recommended Lucy’s Restaurant just a few doors down. This suited me just fine since I could walk.

I was traveling alone. And perhaps it was the way I people-watched, or wrote in my journal; the manager decided I was a restaurant critic from the New York Times. He took great interest in what I ate, and brought me sample sizes of many different dishes. I recall my intrigue as he presented the soft tacos filled with cubed meat instead of the American taco bastardization of crispy shells filled with ground meat. This was a revelation.

Several years later, the discovery of crispy fish tacos was less unexpected, but more satisfying. The taco shells were still prepared of soft corn flour, but instead the filling was crispy fish chunks topped with shredded cabbage, onions and thinned, seasoned sour cream, with nary a hint of cheese. This style of tacos made their way north into the US from Baja California via San Diego.

On the other side of Mexico, on the Yucatan Peninsula in the Caribbean Sea, a different style of fish taco has evolved… the fish is cubed and marinated, more like a ceviche, and grilled in banana leaf or griddled plain.

With visions of turquoise waters and azure blue skies, these tacos are paradise on a plate. Equally authentic, but a distant relative of the tacos from Lucy’s.

Fish Tacos a la Maya Tulum

Fish
1 lb. grouper fillets, cut into 1 inch cubes
2 tbs. soy sauce
2 tbs. lime juice
1 chipotle pepper (packed in adobo), minced
1 tbs. oil

Papaya Salsa
1 ½ cups ripe papaya diced
¼ cup red onion, diced
2 tbs. cilantro
1 tbs. rice wine vinegar

Cilantro “Aioli”
1 cup mayonnaise
¼ cup cilantro leaves (and stems)

Corn tortillas and romaine lettuce

1. For the fish: combine fish with soy, lime and chipotle. Let marinade for 1 hour.
2. Meanwhile, combine ingredients for papaya salsa. Set aside.
3. In a food processor, combine cilantro and mayonnaise. Process until the mayo is bright green and smooth.
4. Turn oven to 400. Put corn tortillas on a sheet tray. Cover with a damp kitchen towel. Warm in oven until warm, soft and pliable, approximately 5 minutes. Set aside in a warm spot
5. While tortillas are warming, Heat a large skillet over medium high heat. Add the oil. Add the fish and cook for 3 minutes.
6. Put two tortillas on a plate. Top with fish cubes, papaya salsa and cilantro aioli. Garnish with lettuce.

I'm submitting this recipe to Joan of Foodalouge's Culinary Tour of South America. To see a round-up of Mexican recipes, click on her blog.






Labels: , ,

----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Fresh Local and Best DATE:1/10/2010 08:42:00 PM The fish tacos looks so refreshing! I like the papaya salsa. It must be wonderful mix of sweet, tangy and spicy flavors! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous noble pig DATE:1/10/2010 09:42:00 PM With that salsa, how wonderful they sound. I do love fish tacos. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger FOODalogue DATE:1/10/2010 10:37:00 PM So glad to have you on the 'tour'. Your fish tacos sound wonderful and I particularly like that you added a cilantro flavored aioli as well as a salsa. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger T.W. Barritt at Culinary Types DATE:1/11/2010 06:41:00 AM A lovely recipe. And, I had to laugh about the experience in the restaurant. I have been amazed at how attentive the staff are when you bring a notebook to the table! Go figure! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Ravenous Couple DATE:1/11/2010 06:28:00 PM we love fish tacos and had a blast when we went to the mexican riviera and tulum area. had plenty of ceviche but don't seem to remember this version...but this sounds great! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Lori Lynn DATE:1/12/2010 09:32:00 AM Both varieties of fish tacos sound muy bien to me!
LL ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Julia DATE:1/13/2010 08:49:00 AM Fresh Local and Best - The balance of flavors really made the dish sing!

noble pig - I was surprised how much I liked the salsa with the tacos, because I usually don't like papaya.

Joan Nova -- it's all about the layering of flavors ;)

T.W. - The funny thing is -- when I ate with an actual food critic, he was very careful to hide his notebook.

Ravenous Couple -- Maybe it was just the specialty of the resort I stayed in?

Lori Lynn -- True that. I would never refuse either one. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger The Hired Pen DATE:1/13/2010 02:07:00 PM Another wonderful recipe from the most creative and innovative chef I know! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Valerie Harrison (bellini) DATE:1/13/2010 04:46:00 PM This is so refreshing and with the backdrop of the palm trees and ocean in the background I am ready to hop on a plane. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Sam Hoffer / My Carolina Kitchen DATE:1/13/2010 04:56:00 PM Beautiful with the backdrop of palm trees. I love the story of their thinking you were a food critic. How cool is that. I'll have to try takine a notebook with me.

I saw your tacos on Joan's Foodalogue blog and had to pop over and say hello.
Sam ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger A.C. DATE:1/13/2010 07:45:00 PM look and sounds SO delicious! pretty much like the rest of your recipes. :-)
definitely is going to be on my menu this weekend... ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous Kitchen Butterfly DATE:1/15/2010 02:49:00 PM Love the fact that I can 'taste' the fish and see hints of the ocean....refreshing ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Julia DATE:1/16/2010 02:37:00 PM Bruce -- Thanks! I'll make it for you and Heather the next time you come over.

Bellini Valli and Kitchen Butterfly -- Palm trees and Caribbean breezes make everything taste better.

Sam -- thanks for stopping by and saying hello!

Andrea -- I hope you like it. You'll have to let me know how it turns out for you. ----- -------- AUTHOR: Julia TITLE: Chicken Enchiladas DATE: 5/22/2009 08:08:00 AM ----- BODY:

Rick Bayless’s recipe for mole (pronounced mo-LAY) cautions the reader that it will require 26 different ingredients. The first time I made this Mexican chili and chocolate sauce it took me three hours. The second time, only 1 ½. Now, I can make it in a half hour.

Of course, I take short-cuts. Mr. Bayless recommends giving each ingredient individual attention: dry roast, fry, and then soak 4 kinds of chilies. Toast each spice separately and then grind. Blacken the tomato. Fry onions, garlic, stale bread, tortillas, almonds and raisins. Did I forget anything? I had intended to take a photo of all the mise-en-place, but after the photo, I realized I forgot half the ingredients.

Mole originates from Oaxaca (pronounced wha-HA-ka) Mexico. What we know in the US is only one of the seven varieties available. Mole is the Mexican version of curry… “The original Nahuatl word molli means 'mixture.'” And like curry (whether it’s Thai, Japanese or Indian), it’s a mix of spices and aromatics that blend together into an intoxicating sauce.

I made the “mole coloradito oaxaqueno” version – which is the variety most commonly seen in the US. There’s also green, yellow, black, red (and obviously a few others whose names I can’t find). It pairs perfectly with enchiladas, pupusas or other Mexican dishes with a masa harina base.

I use the mole for enchiladas. It freezes beautifully. So if you take the time to make it, make lots! Then you will more easily enjoy it on future occasions.

Chicken Enchiladas with Mole Sauce

Filling
1 lb. boneless, skinless chicken thighs
¼ cup balsamic vinegar
1tsp. dried oregano
½ tsp. cumin
3 scallions
Salt and pepper to taste

Combine chicken with remaining ingredients, except scallions. Bake in a 350 oven for 20 minutes or until chicken is cooked through. Cool. Shred meat and toss with scallions.

Mole
(the lazy approach --- for a more authentic recipe, see Rick Bayless’s “Authentic Mexican”)
1/2 lb. dried chilies (pasilla, mulato, poblano or any other combination), seeded and soaked in boiling water for 1 hour.
1/4 cup sesame seeds
1 tsp. coriander
1 oz. chocolate
1/8 tsp. clove
1/2 tsp. fennel seed
1 tsp. cinnamon
1 tomato
1/2 onion
1 garlic clove
1 corn tortilla
1 slice stale bread
1 qt. chicken stock.
1/3 cup almonds
1/3 cup raisins
1/4 cup oil
salt, sugar and red wine vinegar to taste

1. Heat a large sauté pan. Add 1/2 of the oil, nuts, raisins and tortillas. Fry until they begin to turn golden. Toast the bread.

2. In a blender, puree everything together, except remaining oil. Thin with chicken stock or water as needed.

3. Heat a large sauce pot. Add oil. Fry the sauce and continue to simmer for 30 minutes. Season to taste with sugar, salt, and vinegar.


For assembly:
8 – 8” tortillas
1 cup plain oil
Shredded Monterey jack cheese
Sliced scallions
Sour cream

1. Dip each tortilla in mole sauce.
2. Heat oil over medium high flame. Fry mole-coated tortillas, one at a time, in oil until soft, about 1 minute
3. Lay the fried tortillas down on a board. Fill with ½ cup of shredded chicken and roll. Put in a baking sheet. Continue until all tortillas are filled and rolled.
4. Drizzle extra mole on top. Sprinkle cheese on top.
5. Bake at 400F until cheese is melted and sizzling.
6. Remove from oven and garnish with scallions.

I served the enchiladas with black beans and red cabbage slaw

Labels: ,

----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Dewi DATE:5/22/2009 10:58:00 AM Oh Julia, what a nice post to end the week, I always like Enchiladas, sometimes I am to lazy to make my own. This look really delicious! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Reeni DATE:5/22/2009 02:48:00 PM I bet they tasted awesome! Love the combo of different chilies! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous Lydia (The Perfect Pantry) DATE:5/25/2009 05:41:00 PM I'm glad you said that about Rick Bayless' recipe, because I often find that chefs who are used to having someone do the mise en place for them construct overly-wrought recipes. Shortcuts are most welcome, especially for moles! ----- --------