AUTHOR: Julia TITLE: The Stars Aligned (Recipe: Pompano with Clementine Ginger Relish) DATE: 2/02/2010 09:03:00 PM ----- BODY:
Picture Credit: Land Big Fish
Now that I’m a food blogger, I view meal-time differently – no longer is it about nourishing myself nor gathering with friends for an engaging repast; it’s an occasion to tell a story. And as I prepare my dinner, I think about what that story might be, whether it’s the vegetables from the garden, a trip to Asia or the fish I’m cooking.

Dinner the other night was brimming with stories.

I was driving home my milking experience and stopped en route at my favorite fish store. As I scanned the case, I noticed whole pompano. It’s a fish I’ve only eaten once, and probably 25 years ago. The recipe I prepared came from the Time-Life Cookbooks; I served it with kiwi and Jerusalem artichoke. The memory is etched in my mind of one of my favorite fish, though I’ve never eaten it since. I had to purchase it and remind myself what so enticed me.

When I got home, the ground had thawed again, allowing me to harvest more Brussels sprouts. These prized jewels would make a lovely accompaniment to the fish. Trying to get out of my bacon-rut, I opted instead for a relish of clementines and ginger. I still had a few citrus left in the case I bought, and they were on the verge of rotting… a relish would be a quick and easy way to use them up.

And, of course, I had to use the milk – fresh from the cow, only hours old. The dairy manifested itself into wonderfully light and butter spaetzle.

The story of my dinner may be incoherent, but the meal was eloquent and divine!

Broiled Pompano with Clementine Relish and Roasted Brussels Sprouts
(spaetzle recipe coming soon.......)
1 whole pompano, filleted
3 clementines
1 shallot, peeled and diced fine
1 tbs. minced ginger
1/4 cup Chinese Rice Wine
2 tbs. butter
1 sprig fresh tarragon, or 1/2 tsp. dried
olive oil
canola oil

salt and pepper to taste

1.  Cut Brussels sprouts in half.  Toss with olive oil, salt and pepper.  Place them on a cookie sheet in a single layer, cut side down.  Roast in a 400F oven for 20 minutes, or until crusty brown on the bottom.
2.  Meanwhile, section the clementines, removing the white membrane.
3.  Heat a large skillet over high heat.  Season fish with salt and pepper.  Add a thin layer of canola oil to the pan.  Gently place fish in the pan, skin side up.  Cook over high heat for 5 minutes, or until brown edges are visible around the fillets.  Flip the fillets, and cook for two minutes more.  Remove fish from pan, and set aside in a warm place.
4.  To the fish pan, add the shallots and ginger, and cook for 2 minutes or until they soften.  Deglaze the pan with the wine, and reduce.  Remove from heat and swirl in butter.  Stir in the clementines and tarrgagon.

Serve fish with Brussels sprouts and clementines drizzled on top. 


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----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous noble pig DATE:2/02/2010 10:59:00 PM Wow that turned out beautiful especially with the citrus relish...love it. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous Lydia (The Perfect Pantry) DATE:2/03/2010 08:08:00 PM You're still harvesting those Brussels sprouts? Amazing! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger T.W. Barritt at Culinary Types DATE:2/04/2010 05:46:00 AM Eventually, you'll start to spot the chapters and the pages of your story! :-) ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Melissa DATE:2/07/2010 12:46:00 PM On the contrary, it's a lovely example of all the elements you had at your disposal, coming together to form a great meal.

I love whole pompano - had it once at a Thai place. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous Cayman Scuba and Snorkeling Journal DATE:3/03/2010 12:14:00 PM Can't wait to try this recipe. I've seen a few pompano swimming around while I was snorkeling in Grand Cayman ----- -------- AUTHOR: Julia TITLE: Fish Tacos in Paradise DATE: 1/10/2010 07:58:00 PM ----- BODY:


A cross-country road-trip often requires stopping in places one otherwise might not visit. As I drove from DC to San Francisco in 1994, El Paso became an intermediate destination. I pulled into a seemingly clean motel with cheap rooms, and immediately began a quest for dinner. The hotel clerk recommended Lucy’s Restaurant just a few doors down. This suited me just fine since I could walk.

I was traveling alone. And perhaps it was the way I people-watched, or wrote in my journal; the manager decided I was a restaurant critic from the New York Times. He took great interest in what I ate, and brought me sample sizes of many different dishes. I recall my intrigue as he presented the soft tacos filled with cubed meat instead of the American taco bastardization of crispy shells filled with ground meat. This was a revelation.

Several years later, the discovery of crispy fish tacos was less unexpected, but more satisfying. The taco shells were still prepared of soft corn flour, but instead the filling was crispy fish chunks topped with shredded cabbage, onions and thinned, seasoned sour cream, with nary a hint of cheese. This style of tacos made their way north into the US from Baja California via San Diego.

On the other side of Mexico, on the Yucatan Peninsula in the Caribbean Sea, a different style of fish taco has evolved… the fish is cubed and marinated, more like a ceviche, and grilled in banana leaf or griddled plain.

With visions of turquoise waters and azure blue skies, these tacos are paradise on a plate. Equally authentic, but a distant relative of the tacos from Lucy’s.

Fish Tacos a la Maya Tulum

Fish
1 lb. grouper fillets, cut into 1 inch cubes
2 tbs. soy sauce
2 tbs. lime juice
1 chipotle pepper (packed in adobo), minced
1 tbs. oil

Papaya Salsa
1 ½ cups ripe papaya diced
¼ cup red onion, diced
2 tbs. cilantro
1 tbs. rice wine vinegar

Cilantro “Aioli”
1 cup mayonnaise
¼ cup cilantro leaves (and stems)

Corn tortillas and romaine lettuce

1. For the fish: combine fish with soy, lime and chipotle. Let marinade for 1 hour.
2. Meanwhile, combine ingredients for papaya salsa. Set aside.
3. In a food processor, combine cilantro and mayonnaise. Process until the mayo is bright green and smooth.
4. Turn oven to 400. Put corn tortillas on a sheet tray. Cover with a damp kitchen towel. Warm in oven until warm, soft and pliable, approximately 5 minutes. Set aside in a warm spot
5. While tortillas are warming, Heat a large skillet over medium high heat. Add the oil. Add the fish and cook for 3 minutes.
6. Put two tortillas on a plate. Top with fish cubes, papaya salsa and cilantro aioli. Garnish with lettuce.

I'm submitting this recipe to Joan of Foodalouge's Culinary Tour of South America. To see a round-up of Mexican recipes, click on her blog.






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----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Fresh Local and Best DATE:1/10/2010 08:42:00 PM The fish tacos looks so refreshing! I like the papaya salsa. It must be wonderful mix of sweet, tangy and spicy flavors! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous noble pig DATE:1/10/2010 09:42:00 PM With that salsa, how wonderful they sound. I do love fish tacos. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger FOODalogue DATE:1/10/2010 10:37:00 PM So glad to have you on the 'tour'. Your fish tacos sound wonderful and I particularly like that you added a cilantro flavored aioli as well as a salsa. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger T.W. Barritt at Culinary Types DATE:1/11/2010 06:41:00 AM A lovely recipe. And, I had to laugh about the experience in the restaurant. I have been amazed at how attentive the staff are when you bring a notebook to the table! Go figure! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Ravenous Couple DATE:1/11/2010 06:28:00 PM we love fish tacos and had a blast when we went to the mexican riviera and tulum area. had plenty of ceviche but don't seem to remember this version...but this sounds great! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Lori Lynn DATE:1/12/2010 09:32:00 AM Both varieties of fish tacos sound muy bien to me!
LL ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Julia DATE:1/13/2010 08:49:00 AM Fresh Local and Best - The balance of flavors really made the dish sing!

noble pig - I was surprised how much I liked the salsa with the tacos, because I usually don't like papaya.

Joan Nova -- it's all about the layering of flavors ;)

T.W. - The funny thing is -- when I ate with an actual food critic, he was very careful to hide his notebook.

Ravenous Couple -- Maybe it was just the specialty of the resort I stayed in?

Lori Lynn -- True that. I would never refuse either one. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger The Hired Pen DATE:1/13/2010 02:07:00 PM Another wonderful recipe from the most creative and innovative chef I know! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Valerie Harrison (bellini) DATE:1/13/2010 04:46:00 PM This is so refreshing and with the backdrop of the palm trees and ocean in the background I am ready to hop on a plane. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Sam Hoffer / My Carolina Kitchen DATE:1/13/2010 04:56:00 PM Beautiful with the backdrop of palm trees. I love the story of their thinking you were a food critic. How cool is that. I'll have to try takine a notebook with me.

I saw your tacos on Joan's Foodalogue blog and had to pop over and say hello.
Sam ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger A.C. DATE:1/13/2010 07:45:00 PM look and sounds SO delicious! pretty much like the rest of your recipes. :-)
definitely is going to be on my menu this weekend... ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous Kitchen Butterfly DATE:1/15/2010 02:49:00 PM Love the fact that I can 'taste' the fish and see hints of the ocean....refreshing ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Julia DATE:1/16/2010 02:37:00 PM Bruce -- Thanks! I'll make it for you and Heather the next time you come over.

Bellini Valli and Kitchen Butterfly -- Palm trees and Caribbean breezes make everything taste better.

Sam -- thanks for stopping by and saying hello!

Andrea -- I hope you like it. You'll have to let me know how it turns out for you. ----- -------- AUTHOR: Julia TITLE: Taste-Driving Boyfriends DATE: 1/02/2010 03:43:00 AM ----- BODY:

This weekend, The Boston Globe published a story about my dating trials and tribulations. Yes, it’s more amusing than Fred Flintstone. And all true. I don’t want to give away the punch-line, you should read the story.

Due to space limitations, they could not publish the accompanying recipes.

Dinner for Boyfriend No. 2
Perhaps this dish should be a litmus test for future boyfriends. I don’t think any of the old boyfriends would eat this as it was served in the story… The original recipe, which was written for elk loin, is quite adaptable. I’ve substituted tuna, duck and beef with equal success.

Chamomile Scented Tuna with Blackberry Sage Chutney and Crispy Polenta

Spice Rub:


1 tsp. black peppercorns
1/8 teaspoon star anise
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 tsp. cumin seed, roasted
1 tbs. chamomile, whole
1 tsp. orange zest
1/2 teaspoon paprika

Polenta
½ onion, diced
1 small shallot, diced
1 tbs. butter
3 cups liquid (any combination of chicken broth, milk or water)
3/4 cup polenta,
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
1/4 teaspoon black pepper
Plain oil

Blackberry-Sage Chutney:
3/4 cup diced shallots
2 strips smoked bacon, finely chopped
4 tbs. black- or raspberry liqueur
3/4 cup blackberries, frozen
1 tbs. fresh sage, chopped
2 tbs. brown sugar
4 tablespoons red wine vinegar

To prepare the Tuna:
3 lbs. tuna loin
¼ cup pomegranate molasses


For the Spice rub: In food processor, grind peppercorns and star anise until completely powdered. Add cumin seed and chamomile; grind until smooth and then add remaining ingredients. Set aside.

For the Polenta: Melt butter in a sauce pan. Add onions and saute until soft. Add milk, and bring to a boil. Season with salt and pepper. When polenta is thick, pour onto a 9”x13” pan and bake for 15 minutes. Cool at least 2 hours (preferably overnight) then cut into fry shape. Heat plain oil in a large skillet. Cook polenta fries until crispy on all sides.

For the Blackberry Sage Chutney: Saute bacon in a skillet until lightly brown. Add shallots and cook until soft. Add liqueur and deglaze the pan. Add all remaining ingredients. Cook for 2-3 minutes, just to soften blackberries.

To prepare the tuna: Coat the tuna with the molasses. Dredge in spice mix and place in a very hot cast iron skillet. Sear tuna on both sides until dark in color, about 3 minutes per side.  At this point it should be medium rare.  If you like your fish more well done, continue cooking in a 400F oven.    Slice and serve with polenta and chutney.


Up next: Dinner for Ken..................




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----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger PG DATE:1/03/2010 01:51:00 AM Which story is it? There is a list of about 12 at the link. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous Peter Franklin DATE:1/03/2010 08:03:00 AM So true! So true! Nice article, Julia...I very much like your "voice" in this. If there is not a connection on a food level, then what is there?

Happy New Year...

PF ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Julia DATE:1/03/2010 08:30:00 AM PG - Sorry about that. I´ve updated the link. The story is entitled ¨Recipe for Romance¨ ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger T.W. Barritt at Culinary Types DATE:1/03/2010 09:17:00 AM Isn't dating more complicated than ever? When I'm told she doesn't like vegetables, that's a major red flag! Someday I'll learn to cut it off right then! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Andrea DATE:1/03/2010 12:56:00 PM Congrats on the column! I agree that an interest in food can be a meaningful tie that binds within romantic relationships and families. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous Ben Margolis DATE:1/03/2010 09:06:00 PM Hey, I'm sure you have SOMETHING you won't eat! But seriously, that was an entertaining read that I can definitely relate to. Food is so important to me. I just got this cookbook that gives a little bit of recipes for all the latin countries. It's pushing me outside of my comfort zone in terms of ingredients (bacon I have never cooked at home since it's the last vestige I have of being kosher for the first 10 years of my life, but excited for starfruit and hearts of palm). Do you have a process for shopping for a bunch of recipes at once? I'm using a google doc and spreadsheet for 10 recipes. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous Lydia (The Perfect Pantry) DATE:1/03/2010 11:32:00 PM Food compatibility is almost as important as political compatibility. Almost. Loved the Globe piece. It's so you. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous Julia DATE:1/04/2010 08:34:00 AM Chris - my weakness is popeyes fried chicken.

Peter - nice to see you here. Hope you and the family are well! Dim Sum sometime soon?

T.W. - No vegetables? Yikes! Total deal-breaker.

Andrea - I agree. Food is all about sharing.

Ben - I do the same thing. I go through the recipes and write out the ingredients, creating columns by store (or grocery store aisle). There is software out there that can simplify, but you need to have all your recipes in a database.

Lydia - Oh, that´s a tough call which is more important, food compatibility or political. I guess it depends on how divergent the couple is on either issue. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous noble pig DATE:1/04/2010 07:26:00 PM Lovely article, how can people not be interested in food!! Happy New Year my friend. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Melissa DATE:1/04/2010 10:22:00 PM I read the article as well. I also find that food compatibility is important to me - to a point. Steve is being dragged along with me into a whole new world of spices and flavors, whether he likes it or not HA!, but he is still slow to adapt to Asian cuisines. So I go out to eat on my own or with a girlfriend for those things.

But as for flat out food issues, I think that may be a dealbreaker. It would be like any other life passion that someone cannot get on board with.

Great recipe(s) by the way! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Nate @ House of Annie DATE:1/04/2010 11:24:00 PM Congratulations on being published!

The love of food and cooking is part of what brought me and Annie together. And now we're doing a food blog together! So fun.

Hey, if you cook something out of your garden this month, I'd love to have you participate in our Grow Your Own roundup again! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous Julia DATE:1/05/2010 08:26:00 AM noble pig -- I agree! Food is so wonderful!

Melissa - You make good points... and there's definitely room for compromise. You have an interesting situation because when you and Steve met (and got married) you really didn't cook. It sounds like you've navigated well your evolving interest (passion?) in food.

Nate -- I've got lots in the freezer from my garden, so I'm sure I can come up with something. My garden is buried under snow right now... ----- -------- AUTHOR: Julia TITLE: Here's Looking at You, Kid! (Recipe: Thai Whole Fish) DATE: 11/15/2009 02:39:00 PM ----- BODY:


(Don’t forget about the chocolate giveaway. Leave a comment before midnight, Tuesday, November 17th) 

When I was in Chinatown last week, stocking up on supplies, I decided to buy fish for dinner.  I scanned the fish display - a vast array of whole fish and fillets, from mackeral to salmon to monkfish.  The fillets didn’t look great (I look for a moist sheen and firmness to the flesh).  Nor did the whole fish: the eyes were cloudy, a sure sign of age,  or perhaps just because they were packed on ice.  I didn't want to chance it.   But then I looked down, and saw fish tanks under the counter with live fish squirming around.  It doesn’t get any fresher than that!

The man in front of the fish tanks scooped a striped bass out of the tank with a net and pointed to the counter, as if to ask, “Do you want that killed and cleaned.” I nodded. Another man scaled the fish and cleaned out the innards. Before I had a chance to request that I’d like it filleted, it was in a bag with a UPC sticker.

I could have easily filleted it at home, but I decided to cook it whole – for better flavor and for ease of handling. The bones will keep the fish moist and give extra flavor. Leaving the fish whole also makes it easier to fillet the fish with less waste and  test for doneness – the fillets will pull away from the bones easily with a fork or spoon when it’s cooked. 

Digging deep into the archives of my recipes, I found this recipe for Whole Thai Fish with Chilies. WOW! Was it delicious! The sweet and sour flavor is bright from the addition of kaffir lime leaves. And the sauce stays light since it’s thickened only from the sugar. It’s definitely going to make a more regular appearance at the dinner table.

The presentation is impressive, but if you’re squeamish about whole fish, you can also filet it in the kitchen before serving.

From the Garden: Green chilies and scallions.





Whole Fish with Garlic and Chilies


2 whole 1 - 2 lb. fish, like striped bass.
1 cup flour
oil for frying

3 garlic cloves, chopped
2 green jalapenos, sliced thin
2 red jalapeno or 1/2 red bell pepper, slice thin
1/2 cup scallions, sliced thin or cut into rounds
1/2 cup cilantro

2 tbs. oil
1/3 cup fish sauce
6 tbs. sugar
6 tbs. lime juice
12 kaffir lime leaves


1. Cut three slashes to the bone on both sides of fish.


2. Heat oil. Add peppers and garlic. Cook for 3 minutes or until garlic is lightly brown.  Remove from heat, and stir in fish sauce, sugar and lime juice.  Set aside.


3.  Coat fish with flour.  Heat a large skillet over high heat and add oil.  Gently place in fish and cook for 5 minutes on each side.

4.  Put fish on a serving platter.  Stir kaffir lime leaves into sauce and pour over fish.  Garnish with cilantro





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----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Melissa DATE:11/15/2009 07:02:00 PM So beautiful Julia!! What a wonderful meal, made even more lovely to me because of the freshness and spontaneity of it.

I don't know if you know that Thai is my favorite cuisine. I only just started cooking it at home though and have mastered just one dish (ground chicken with basil and chiles, Gai Pad Gra Pow). I'm so motivated by your post to do more. If I remember correctly, you have a great pad thai recipe in your archives too. :) ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous Lydia (The Perfect Pantry) DATE:11/15/2009 10:21:00 PM While I order whole fish (especially when it's cooked with garlic, ginger and chiles) in Thai restaurants, I never cook whole fish at home. I'm not sure why not. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger adele DATE:11/16/2009 11:25:00 AM Mmm. Like Lydia, I love to order whole fish in restaurants, but don't prepare it at home. This might need to change. :) ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous noble pig DATE:11/16/2009 07:40:00 PM I have never cooked a whole fish,,,I clearly need to do this. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Julia DATE:11/16/2009 07:45:00 PM Melissa -- I remember! The pad thai is good, and I've also posted some other really easy/good thai recipes since then.

Lydia, Adele and noble pig -- It's surprisingly easy! And so tasty. ----- -------- AUTHOR: Julia TITLE: Know Thyself (Recipe: Potato Crusted Black Bass with Leeks and Red Wine) DATE: 11/04/2009 10:47:00 AM ----- BODY:


In the past few years, since started my urban garden, I’ve learned so much by trial-and-error. I’ve learned about micro-climates and properly spacing vegetables. I discovered how to spur Brussels sprouts to grow larger, and that my raspberry bush has two fruiting cycles a year – once in the early summer and again in the autumn. And I’ve learned that I can’t start seeds indoors.

When I began gardening, I tried starting tomatoes, basil and peppers indoors in early March with hopes of transplanting them outside as soon as the soil warmed up. I know that starting plants from seeds is far more economical than buying seedlings. I get more options in what varieties I want to grow. And I have less concern about an unsuspecting blight. Unfortunately, I’ve never succeeded in getting a single plant into the ground that was started indoors.

I’m not sure what my problem is…. Did they not get enough sun or too much? Did they get enough fertilizer? Or too much? Some years they did get enough water. I’ve given up.

So I only plant vegetables that can be direct-sowed or purchased as seedlings ready to transplant. This year, that included leeks – a surprise find at a random nursery.

I was a little suspect of the plant – dozens of threads shot out of the 2” pot. Given my propensity to sow seeds too densely, I sensed this would be a problem. When I got home, I tried to tease apart the seedlings, but the root structure was already a tangled mess. I managed to gently pull apart enough to plant 3 rows. The seedlings drooped and flopped, and were still too close together. I propped them up with mounds of soil and gave them plenty of water.


By some miracle, they survived. Still too densely planted, the leeks didn’t grow as large as they should.   As I harvest, I try to cut out the larger ones without disturbing the smaller one – hoping to give them a little more room to grow. So far, I’ve cut out over a dozen leeks, and the remaining still look strong.

Try as I might to get out of my rut of simply cooking leeks in butter, I just can’t do it. They are too delicious. I changed it up a little the other night by using them as a base for potato crusted black bass with a red wine reduction. It’s a riff on a recipe from Daniel Boulud.

Potato Crusted Black Bass with Leeks and Red Wine
2 russet potatoes
5 leeks
2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons flour
4 black bass filets
¼ cup plain oil
1 ½ cups red wine
1 cup rich chicken stock.
¼ cup heavy cream

Salt, pepper and lemon juice to taste

1. Shred potatoes. Soak in cold water for 10 minutes to remove excess starch. This will also prevent the potatoes from turning black.
2. Trim the leeks: cut off the dark green and set aside for another use. Cut the leek in half lengthwise, then into 1/2” slices. Soak in cold water to remove the dirt. Lift the leeks out of the water
3. Heat a large skillet over medium heat. Add the butter and the leeks. Cook, stirring occasionally until the leeks are soft. Set aside.
4. Drain potatoes from the water. Season with salt and pepper and toss in flour.
5. On a clean work surface, lay out some potato in a thin layer. Place the fish on top, season with salt and pepper. Wrap the potato shreds around the fish. Repeat with remaining fish and potatoes.
6. Heat a large skillet over high heat. Add the oil. Gently place the fish in the oil, and cook until potato is golden brown and crispy. Gently flip the fish over, and cook for 2 minutes more.
7. Remove fish from pan and set aside. Working quickly to hold onto the heat in the pan, drain off all the excess oil. Add a spoonful of the leeks (and a few mushrooms if you happen to have a few wilting in the fridge like I did). Add the wine and chicken stock and reduce by half over high heat.
8. Stir in the cream into the sauce. Adjust seasoning with salt, pepper and lemon juice
9. Put a mound of leeks on the bottom of each plate. Lay the fish on top. Spoon sauce around the fish.



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----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous noble pig DATE:11/04/2009 05:54:00 PM Seeds have never worked for me either. The bass sounds wonderful. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous jo DATE:11/04/2009 08:26:00 PM this morning as I left I checked the Brussel(s) sprouts and their were little baby ones! Need to remove top leaves as you recommend, cross fingers and pray for late snow.
Still plugging away, but terribly distracted by day to day...... ----- -------- AUTHOR: Julia TITLE: An Exercise in Love (Recipe: Pan Seared Halibut with Cider Reduction and Roasted Vegetables) DATE: 10/30/2009 09:19:00 AM ----- BODY:

My sister and her family came to visit last week. They don’t make the trip often – flying up four people (from Richmond) is downright expensive. And because they are orthodox Jews, finding a time that does not interfere with school, work and Shabbat can be most challenging.

When they do visit, I try to accommodate their religious lifestyle. The biggest challenge is kashering my kitchen (the act of making my kitchen kosher). The Jewish dietary laws require the separation of milk and meat (which translates into separate dishes for milk meals and for meat meals) and a prohibition on pork and shellfish. Because I don’t cook kosher, I cannot cook for them in my kitchen as is, even if I buy all kosher ingredients. I need to go through a ritual process that cleanses my kitchen of traces of "treyf." Obviously, my kitchen is regularly cleaned and sanitized, so there aren’t really remnants of pork or lobster on the counters or even in the dishes. But that’s not the point.

I have separate dishes in the basement that I use when they visit, as well as a few pots and pans.  I even have a dish-drainer just for them (we can't use my dishwasher since it can't be ritually kashered). I also need to take care of the oven, counters, stovetop, sink and a few miscellaneous pieces of equipment (tongs, my fish spatula) that I don't have extra. The process takes me about two hours. Sometimes I think I’ll just pretend, and tell my sister I actually did it for her. But it’s so important to her, that I can’t deceive her like that.

This is what I do:

1. Turn the oven on self-cleaning. I think I only need to do this for one hour, but my oven requires a minimum of 4, so that’s what I do.
2. Boil a cup of water in the microwave until it has evaporated.
3. Turn all burners on high for an hour.

And then it gets a little complicated….

4. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. I do this while I’m doing step 3. The pot has to be really big – because it is into this pot that I’ll dip anything that’s not kosher that I’m trying to make kosher. I’ll put in some extra pots and pans, some cooking utensils and even a cookie sheet or two. It also has to be really full so that when I drop a rock into it, the water will overflow. This is to mimic free flowing water.

I could also take everything to a body of free flowing water (like a river or ocean) and dip it in there. Perhaps that would be easier.

5. So when the water boils (and I have to make sure I’m done with step 3 by this point), I drop a rock into the water so it overflows.

This is the part I hate the most. I stare at the pot, wondering if when I drop the rock in, the water will overflow. If it does, I’m following ritual, but I know it will create a huge mess.

6. I then take cup fulls of water and pour it all over the counters and sink.

7. Once the sink is kosher, I can start kashering all the utensils and pots. I submerge them into the water and then run them under cold water.

And that’s it! Seven easy steps to make your Jewish friends feel welcome in your home.

My cooking simplifies when I'm cooking kosher, mainly because I don't have the little tools like a blender, cuissinart or kitchen aid.

Pan Seared Halibut with Cider Reduction and Roasted Vegetables
2 cups fresh pressed apple cider
1 pound brussels sprouts
2 tbs. olive oil
2 pounds parsnips
2 sprigs fresh thyme
1 butternut squash
1 onion
1 apple
1 tsp. curry powder

1 stick butter
1 cup cream
4 pounds halibut, cut into 8 portions
1/4 flour
salt and pepper to taste

  1. Pre-heat oven to 400F 
  2. Put apple cider in a pot over high heat and reduce by half.
  3. While the cider is reducing, prepare the vegetables:  Cut the Brussels sprouts in half.  Toss with olive oil, salt and pepper. Place them on a baking sheet, cut side down and roast for 20 minutes, or until browned on the bottom side.
  4. Peel the parsnips.  Cut into wedges.  Melt 2 tbs. of butter.  Toss parsnips in melted butter, salt, pepper and 1 sprig of thyme.  Put on a cookie sheet and roast until carmalized brown on the bottom side, about 30 minutes.
  5. Peel the butternut squash and apple.  Cut into a small dice.  Peel and dice the onion.  Heat a large skillet over high heat.  Melt the butter.  Add onions, apple and squash.  Cook, without stirring, until they start to brown.  Stir occasionally.  Add curry powder, salt and pepper to taste.  Continue cooking until squash is tender.
  6. When cider is reduced, add cream, and continue to reduce by half again.
  7. Heat a large skillet over high heat.  Season fish with salt and pepper.  Dust with flour.  Add oil and thyme sprig to pan.  Cook halibut until browned.  Flip over and cook for 2 minutes more.
  8. Serve halibut with sauce and roasted vegetables.



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----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger giz DATE:10/30/2009 10:46:00 AM You landed on one fish I actually like. I'm just curious about how sweet the parsnips make the fish. Glad I could help you solve your stats dilema - my job is done for the day :) ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Tall Kate DATE:10/30/2009 07:13:00 PM Not only does this sound *delicious*, I just wanted to say how much I admire you for doing this for your sister and her family! What a gift you're giving them. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Lori Lynn DATE:10/30/2009 07:24:00 PM That was very interesting! We've never kept Kosher, so I did not know how that was done.

The dish sounds perfect, especially the sauce.
LL ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous Sylvie, Rappahannock Cook & Kitchen Gardener DATE:10/31/2009 12:26:00 PM I have heard that one could kosher pots and spoons etc by burying them for a while (instead of boiling them)... but then, you would want to wash them anyway, so may as well go with the boiling!

This is indeed a demonstration of love... bravo to you! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous Anonymous DATE:10/31/2009 01:12:00 PM What a sister! It was all delicious. love, Mommy ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous Anonymous DATE:10/31/2009 02:05:00 PM I worked with a girl once that was Orthodox Jewish, and I bought all new utencils, bowls, etc. to be kosher.

When I brought in her birthday cake she said "did you cook that in your oven?" Of course I said yes, but explained that all the things I used were new, but she couldn't eat it because I cooked it in my oven.

She loved the gesture though! :D ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous Lydia (The Perfect Pantry) DATE:10/31/2009 07:11:00 PM This brings back memories of hanging out in my grandmother's kosher kitchen. She had two of everything: two sinks, two refrigerators, two (or more) sets of dishes, pots, pans, silverware, etc. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Heather DATE:11/01/2009 10:40:00 AM i never knew how you started cooking kosher - so interesting! that cider reduction sounds amazing! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous noble pig DATE:11/01/2009 11:26:00 AM This is an amazing post, many people will find it so useful and it's wonderful you do this for your sister! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Julia DATE:11/01/2009 12:41:00 PM giz -- not too sweet. and the brussels sprouts balance the parsnips.

Tall Kate -- Thanks! I think they appreciated it too.

LL -- And if you ever need to make the change... you'll know what to do.

Slyvie -- I had heard that too, but it seems more laborious than what I currently do.

Mom -- So glad we could all be together!
biz -- Oh no! That's too funny... and frustrating, I'm sure.

Lydia -- I never knew you grew up in such a religious family! What did your grandmother do when she came to your house for meals?

Heather -- the cider reduction was the best part! And all the pectin in the cider made for an especially luscious sauce.

noble pig -- I do hope this can be a reference for others. It's really not that hard (albeit time consuming) and it's so appreciated. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger W(?)W DATE:1/29/2010 12:20:00 PM We keep kosher, and most of our friends and extended family do not, and I can attest to how wonderful and amazing and refreshing and sweet (I'll stop now) it is when people go out of their way to accomodate us. We know it's a lot to ask, and we know how to take care of our own food in all sorts of situations, but not to have to, especially when we know others are going out of their way for our benefit, means so, so much. I do want to caution you about immersing your dishes in free-flowing water... you might want to check with your sister, but according to what I've been taught this is a seperate, EXTRA step that you do not have to do in order for her to eat in your kitchen, and it cannot replace actually kashering (boiling). Shalom! ----- -------- AUTHOR: Julia TITLE: The Last Breath of Summer (Recipe: Tod Mun) DATE: 10/04/2009 01:00:00 PM ----- BODY:
Last week, a friend came over for dinner. Immediately when he walked in, he complained that the house was too cold, and could we please turn on the heat. He was right – the windows were wide open, outside temperatures were hovering in the low 50’s and inside wasn’t much warmer.

Normally, I’m more accommodating of friends’ requests, but on this evening I knew that closing the windows meant summer was over. And I wasn’t ready for that admission.

I acquiesced.

The garden has also succumbed to autumn. The blight finally overcame the tomatoes. And the cucumbers stopped growing just shy of being sweet.

With the last tomato, I indulged in a simple tomato-mayo sandwich.

With the last sweet cucumber, I made a relish to accompany spicy Thai Tod Mun. These fish cakes get their heat from red curry and brightness from kaffir lime leaves. They give warmth to summer’s last breath and welcome in the fall.

Thai Style Fish Cakes
1 lb. 2 oz. white fish filets, minced (use food processor if necessary)
5 tbs. red curry paste (more or less to taste)
4 tbs. fish sauce
1 egg, beaten
8 tbs. tapioca flour
2 tsp. baking powder
1 tbs. palm sugar or brown sugar
10 kaffir lime leaves, thinly sliced, stems discarded
8 Chinese long beans or string beans, thinly sliced

Oil for frying

Sauce
6 tbs. water
6 tbs. sugar
1 tbs. chilli powder
2 tbs. roasted peanuts – chopped
2 tbs. cucumber, thinly sliced
½ cup chopped cilantro

1. Make dipping sauce: put water, sugar and vinegar into a pan, bring to a boil, stirring until the sugar dissolves. Simmer for 5 minutes. Turn off heat and add chilli powder and cucumbers. Garnish with cilantro

2. Mix ingredients for fish cakes together in a bowl until thoroughly combined. Form into cakes.

3. Fry fish cakes in medium hot oil until golden brown on all sides. Drain on paper towel. Serve while still hot with sauce.

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----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous jo DATE:10/04/2009 06:30:00 PM I make those often for a quick dinner. I love them, husband - not so much. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Reeni DATE:10/04/2009 10:20:00 PM I've never had a spicy fish cake like this. They sound really good, loaded with flavor. My entire garden is dried up, and has been since the end of August. I had the worst harvest this year, it was quite sad. But I did get two small pumpkins - the prize of the year! Last year I didn't get any. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous noble pig DATE:10/05/2009 12:31:00 AM My heater has been on for a week, it's cold!! Spicy fish cake sounds yummy! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Heather DATE:10/05/2009 08:05:00 PM yum! these look lovely - so golden and brown! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous Lydia (The Perfect Pantry) DATE:10/05/2009 10:06:00 PM I always order these in Thai restaurants. What kind of fish do you use when you make them at home? ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Julia DATE:10/06/2009 08:39:00 AM jo -- is it the spice or does he not like fish?

Reeni -- great on the pumpkins! Sorry to hear about the rest. I think it was a tough summer for all of us.

noble pig -- that's crazy-talk!

heather -- thanks!

Lydia -- I use whitefish -- cod, tilapia, halibut.... whichever is cheapest. With all the spice, it's a shame to use expensive fish. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous Sylvie, Rappahannock Cook & Kitchen Gardener DATE:10/06/2009 08:18:00 PM how could I not like this? it features one of my favorite herbs, kaffir lime leaves (aka combava leaves) ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Karen DATE:10/08/2009 12:17:00 PM We eat a lot of fish and I'm always making fish cakes, but always the same way. I like the red curry in this - think I'll add some to my next batch of fish cakes! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Neen DATE:10/11/2009 07:29:00 PM Oh, fantastic, I'm always looking for a super flavorful-but fast dinner. And the best part of summer being over is that it marks the beginning of stew season. :) ----- -------- AUTHOR: Julia TITLE: Mint, Part Deux DATE: 5/10/2009 03:13:00 AM ----- BODY:
After the mojitos, which I accidentally made too strong, I needed dinner. With plenty more mint in the garden (and bacon in the fridge) I prepared another favorite, simple recipe...

Trout with Mint and Bacon
3 slices bacon, diced
4 rainbow trout fillets
1/4 cup flour
1 tablespoon canola oil (opt.)
1/4 cup mint, chiffonade
lemon
salt and pepper to taste.

1. In a large skillet, cook the bacon over medium heat until the fat renders and the bacon begins to crisp. Remove the bacon from the pan to drain on a paper towel, but save the fat.

2. Season the fish with salt and pepper. Dust with flour and spank off any excess.

3. Reheat the pan with the bacon fat over medium high flame. If you don't have enough fat you can add a little canola oil. Add the trout fillets, flesh side down, and cook for 5 minutes on the first side, until the flesh is lightly golden. Flip over and cook for 3 minutes on the skin side.

4. Place the fish on a serving platter. Sprinkle bacon and mint on top. Squeeze lemon over the whole thing.

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----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous Lydia (The Perfect Pantry) DATE:5/10/2009 09:53:00 AM I'm about to harvest my first mint from the garden today. I actually love the taste of the mint before the stems get woody later in the season. I don't know if there's such a thing as "young mint", but it's my favorite. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous noble pig DATE:5/10/2009 10:23:00 AM Okay I've never done mint and bacon, that sounds absolutely delicious....wow! I love it. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Dewi DATE:5/10/2009 11:33:00 AM I honestly like mint in everything. I put fresh mint, honey and lemon in my tea too (everyday). Recipe sounds great. I like the addition of bacon in there. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Katie DATE:5/10/2009 12:20:00 PM This sounds like another great fish recipe! I would have never thought of that combination, but I'll have to try it out. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Heather DATE:5/10/2009 06:06:00 PM ohhh, yum. i love the mint and bacon combo. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger T.W. Barritt at Culinary Types DATE:5/11/2009 12:18:00 AM The mint and the savory taste of bacon sounds great. I should just start a pot of mint outside. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger grace DATE:5/11/2009 06:18:00 AM minty fish, eh? maybe that's the secret to getting me to enjoy fish. if not that, perhaps the bacon will help. couldn't hurt, right? after all, it's bacon. :) ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Julia DATE:5/11/2009 07:24:00 AM Lydia -- I bet there is such a thing!

noble pig -- it's a great combo for salsa's too.

Katie -- If you liked the tilapia, then I think you'll definitely like this one! So so simple.

Heather -- it's unexpected, but so good.

T.W. -- a pot sounds great... easier to contain.

Grace -- Bacon makes everything taste better. But if you're squeamish about fish, best to start with super-duper fresh fish. Actually, I think this recipe, might be a good place. The trout is mild and the mint and bacon have such a wonderful flavor. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous Anonymous DATE:5/11/2009 05:54:00 PM Julia, you made everything sound so good, and easy. I bought halibut for tonight. I have a bourbon/soy marinade which I have put on top. I plan to bake at high temp. (450ish.)
Judith_deecee ----- -------- AUTHOR: Julia TITLE: Chile and Cilantro Stuffed Tilapia DATE: 5/03/2009 09:10:00 AM ----- BODY:

Delicious. Easy. Economical. Sustainable. Does it get any better than that?

I’ve noticed lately that I’ve been eating less fish. Not because I don’t love it… but because it’s generally so expensive. ($18 per pound for Tuna?? Are you kidding me ??) And in these tough times, I’m watching every penny. Tilipia costs less than $10/pound for boneless filets, and a 4 oz. portion is surprisingly generous. It has a mild flavor that’s enhanced by the seasoning. And Tilapia from the Americas (north, central or south) is on the safe list by the Monterrey Bay Seafood Watch.

Chile and Cilantro Stuffed Tilapia

serves 4 - 6

Seasoning: 2 tsp. each: chopped thyme (opt), parsley (opt), cilantro, jalapenos, scallions, chives (opt.), garlic, onions
6 tilapia filets, preferably red snapper, mahi-mahi or tilapia)
2 limes, juiced
1cup panko or plain bread crumbs
1 tbs. oil
salt and pepper to taste

1. Combine ingredients for seasoning mixture. In a separate bowl, mix bread crumbs and oil.

2. Put fish on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper.

3. Season fish with salt and pepper. Squeeze lime juice over the filets. Divide the seasoning across the filets and rub on top. Finally, sprinkle the bread crumbs on top.

4. Bake in 350 oven for 10 minutes, or until cooked through.

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----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger ChristyACB DATE:5/03/2009 12:32:00 PM Sounds like a great recipe and I'm making it a sticky to try soon.

Tilapia, as well as being on the safe list and not as expensive as some others now, is also an easy fish for home aquaculture.

A tilapia pool in a greenhouse is now a great green addition to the home food production. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Lori Lynn DATE:5/03/2009 12:47:00 PM Looks like a great way to perk up tilapia!

I saw swordfish at one of our gourmet markets for $27.99/lb !@#$%*!

LL

P.S. I didn't buy it. I wonder who would? ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Katie DATE:5/03/2009 02:32:00 PM I'm so happy that you posted this today! Just yesterday I was trying to figure out what to do with the tilapia that I have sitting in my freezer, and I never came up with any great ideas. Looks like you solved my problem! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Reeni DATE:5/03/2009 08:35:00 PM The crispy crust looks so delicious! Great flavors. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Melissa DATE:5/03/2009 09:21:00 PM I could eat fish every day. This sounds great to me, especially because of the jalapeno.

And I know what you mean about the fish prices. Harsh. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Julia DATE:5/04/2009 07:32:00 AM ChristyACB -- A fish pool at home? That sounds great!!

LL -- Probably people with more dollars than sense. Sounds CRAZY to me.

Katie -- Let me know how it turns out!

Reeni -- It's so versatile too!

melissa -- I posted this recipe thinking specifically of you and Psychgrad. I know you're both looking for more fish recipes, and I know you like your SPICY foods. :) ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger grace DATE:5/06/2009 09:07:00 AM i'm not a fish-eater so i had no idea tuna was so expensive--it's practically up there with filet mignon! so while i wouldn't particularly like the fishy part of this, the stuffing is right up my alley. cilantro is the best herb ever. :) ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous Lela DATE:5/12/2009 01:36:00 PM I am so excited about this recipe because I actually harvested my first sprigs of cilantro yesterday! Thanks, and you should consider entering this in Regal Spring's chef contest. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous Lela DATE:5/12/2009 01:37:00 PM PS - I'm featuring this on the Tilapia Blog next week! ----- -------- AUTHOR: Julia TITLE: Tuna Burger Makes Five DATE: 1/31/2009 01:27:00 PM ----- BODY:
When Four Burgers opened in Central Square last summer, they featured... you guessed it.... four burgers: beef, turkey, salmon and veggie. They had always intended for a feature fifth, seasonal burger. But with the hecticness of starting a new business, they had to delay that... until now!

Finally, with a little help from Julia Shanks Food Consulting , they have added that fifth burger to the menu.

Ahi Tuna, Nicoise Style -- with Roasted Tomatoes, Olive Tapenade
and Green Bean Slaw


Perhaps, I'm a little bias, but it's a great burger. Fresh herbs season the tuna. Can you see they cooked it beautifully to medium rare? It's topped with an olive tapenade and slow roasted tomatoes. The slaw on the side pulls in the green beans typical with a nicoise salad.

You can visit Four Burgers at 704 Massachusetts Avenue, Cambridge, MA.

They are also taking requests for other burger specials. Leave a comment here, or email: info@fourburgers.com

For those of you who don't live in the Cambridge area, you can make your own tuna burger at home:

Tuna Burgers
2 pounds fresh tuna, finely chopped
2 scallions, cut into rounds
1 tablespoons fresh tarragon, chopped
3/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon pepper

Tapenade
1 cup pitted nicoise olives
1 anchovy filet
1 teaspoon capers
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive

Green Bean Slaw
1/4 pound haricot verts or green beans
1 cup shredded cabbage
1 carrot, peeled and shredded
1/4 cup mayonnaise
1 teaspoon mustard
1 teaspoon tarragon, chopped
1 teaspoon capers, chopped
salt and pepper to taste

6 buns, toasted
6 slices tomatoes


1. Gently mix the tuna with remaining burger ingredients. Divide into 6 portions and form into patties, about 1 inch thick. Set aside.

2. Put tapenade ingredients in a food processor and blend until coarsely chopped.

3. Combine all ingredients for the slaw. Set aside.

4. Heat a grill pan over high heat. Sear tuna on one side for 3 minutes, or until golden brown. Cook on second side for 3 more minutes.

5. Serve burgers on a toasted bun with a smear of tapenade and a slice of tomato. Garnish the plate with the slaw.

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----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous Anonymous DATE:1/31/2009 03:55:00 PM On your recommendation we've been to Four Burgers several times. They do have fantastic burgers, and even better fries. Now we'll have to go again to try the tuna burger! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Heather DATE:2/01/2009 12:48:00 PM ohhh that sounds good. i love ahi tuna. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Melissa DATE:2/01/2009 08:08:00 PM Oh that's so awesome! It's your burger. :D ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Julia DATE:2/03/2009 06:07:00 PM Lydia, you'll have to let me know the next time you're in... :)

Heather, Thanks... and really how could you not love ahi?

Melissa, It is fun to see my recipes out there... ----- -------- AUTHOR: Julia TITLE: The Savant Project - Special Promotion DATE: 12/03/2008 09:32:00 AM ----- BODY:
My friend Benny opened The Savant Project in Mission Hill last year. We met in business school, both coming from the hospitality industry (he was a bartender, I was a chef), and became fast friends. Though I knew I didn't want to be in the restaurant business anymore, I was intrigued by his vision of restaurants and lounges (a "lounge empire" he modestly called it).

Benny has succeeded in creating a lounge: the vibe is hip and funky, blending perfectly with this fringe neighborhood -- on the edge of the prominent Longwood Medical Center and the up-and-coming Mission Hill. Hospital employees mingle with young hipsters. The tiny kitchen produces fun and funky dishes, variations on the typical bar food... a steak frite with yuca fries instead of the typical potato, quesadillas trios with homemade mango salsa, and a home-made veggie burger. They have received props from Boston Magazine (Where to Dine and Best of Boston Awards), the Phantom Gourmet, the Boston Globe and Chronicle.

When Benny asked if I could help streamline the menu, I had to say yes. How fun to be part of his exciting venture! Benny's two big challenges: the food costs were too high and the kitchen could not execute the menu fast enough on busy nights. We made a few adjustments with the current recipes (like slicing the pork tenderloins into medallions before cooking -- yielding more yummy 5-spice crust and cooking faster). We also removed some of the slow selling items and replaced them with new dishes that cook quickly and have a lower food cost - we were even able to reduce the prices on some of the menu items!

The general approach to the menu was to simplify. The menu consisted of numerous items some of which did not move as quickly as we would have liked. As opposed to having numerous options all the time (which kills labor costs from excessive prep, and food costs due to waste and spoilage) the menu is focusing on its strengths. Now, the menu will switch out about 30% of the items every two months in order to provide the clientele with the options they so desire!

The most popular addition: Beer Battered Fish Tacos with a Chipotle Slaw and Guacamole. Although intended for the dinner menu (where it thrives) it also does quite well on the lunch menu. Priced at $15 it is cheaper than the traditional dinner entrees. It is priced higher than the veggie burger or the stuffed burger, however. These were the two most popular (and most affordable) dinner entrees. When a customer switches to the fish tacos from the burger, that means an extra $1.50 of revenue per entree or an 11% increase in food sales!

This month Benny is going on an all out promotions spree with the new changes to the menu. With the new menu in place, the restaurant now does three full turns for dinner with comfort and ease, and Benny plans to fully take advantage of this! Some of the promotions include 2 entrees and a bottle of wine for $50 any Sunday, Monday. In addition there is a 3 course NYE Dinner with a champagne toast and a glass of wine for $33.09 (designed by my friend and former co-worker Estuart Rojas) and he is even beginning a late night menu Thursday through Saturday till close with all items under $5. Enjoy some music and get some quality grub....in Mission Hill! (who knew?)

He is also happy to offer anyone who says the code words "we love Hoolia" (his idea, not mine) a complementary tapa with your meal or even just a drink! And Benny insisted I add his little blurb, "If you read Julia's blog and come on in, please ask for me! I'm here all the time and Julia has helped out so much (often just for bottles of wine...) that I owe her friends and fans the best of times."

And for those of you not in Boston, here's the recipe for the famed Fish Tacos.

¼ cup mayonnaise
1/3 cup sour cream
½ tsp. ground cumin
1 chipotle (or more to taste)

½ cup shredded red cabbage or lettuce
2 ripe tomatoes, coarsely chopped
¼ cup finely sliced red onion
1 jalapeno, seeded and minced
1 clove garlic, peeled and minced
¼ cup chopped cilantro
salt and lime to taste

1 cup flour
1/3 cup cornmeal
1 tsp. salt, or more to taste
1 cup beer
1 egg
12 6-in soft, white corn tortillas
Canola for frying
1 lb. fluke, cod or any firm white fleshed fish, cut into strips 1 inch wide and 2 -3 inches long

2 limes, cut into wedges

1. In a large bowl, whisk together the mayonnaise, sour cream, cumin and chipotle salsa. Toss in cabbage, tomatoes, red onion, jalapeno, garlic and cilantro. Season to taste with salt and lime juice.
2. In a large bowl, make a beer batter: whisk together 2/3 cup flour, cornmeal, salt, egg and beer.
3. Preheat oven to warm, or its lowest setting. Spread tortillas on a baking sheet and cover with a damp towel. Place in oven.
4. Pour 1 inch of peanut oil into a deep saucepan and place over medium-high heat. When it is hot enough to brown a bread crumb, begin coating the fish. Dust fish with the flour, and then dip into the batter. Add the pieces, one by one, to the oil. Fry until golden brown, about 3 minutes. Adjust the heat as necessary. Drain on plate lined with paper towel. Repeat process with remaining fish.
5. Fill each warm tortilla with 2-3 pieces of fish, a generous spoon of the cabbage slaw. Squeeze a wedge of lime and sprinkle a little salt over the filled tortilla. Fold in half and serve.

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----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous Anonymous DATE:12/03/2008 12:46:00 PM oh I love those tacos! My favorite mexican restaurant in ny does them too, using mahi mahi, but sp's might be better. I'm excited for the new menu! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Heather DATE:12/03/2008 03:30:00 PM i've never tried fish tacos.. i don't know why, but they scare me. but this recipe sounds pretty good :D ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous Anonymous DATE:12/03/2008 11:17:00 PM When are we going??? ----- -------- AUTHOR: Julia TITLE: More Adventures in Smoking: Bluefish DATE: 10/11/2008 02:45:00 PM ----- BODY:

There are several truths in my culinary world: everything fried tastes better and everything smoked tastes better. Obviously, there are exceptions to the rule – thinking about all the fresh vegetables coming out of the garden and about that smoked oil.

Bluefish fits perfectly into that rule. Some people enjoy it fresh, but with a strong, oily flavor it’s better suited to smoking and more universally liked that way. I love having little snacks in the fridge for when unexpected guests come over, and smoked bluefish is a great option. Whole Foods sells smoked bluefish pâté but I was wholly disappointed to discover it contains high fructose corn syrup. The only solution is to make my own.

Smoked Bluefish Pâté
To smoke bluefish: Season ½ pound filet with salt, pepper and a little sugar. Start a charcoal fire on the grill. Meanwhile, soak wood chips in water. When charcoal fire starts to fade, prepare to smoke and move quickly: Drain wood chips and toss on top of the embers. Replace the grate on top of the grill and put the bluefish on the grate… away from the fire. Close the grill and the vents on top – leave the vents on the bottom open. Let fish smoke for 30 minutes or more.

In a food processor fitted with a plastic blade, combine bluefish with 4 ounces cream cheese, 1 tablespoon brandy, 1 teaspoon lemon juice, salt and black pepper. Pulse to combine. Stir in chopped scallions. Serve with crackers.

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----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Lydia (The Perfect Pantry) DATE:10/12/2008 07:05:00 AM My first taste of smoked bluefish pate was from Legal Seafoods, soon after we moved to Boston 30 years ago. I found it completely addictive, and we used to buy it at their fish market all the time. I haven't had it for years, but now I'm craving... ----- -------- AUTHOR: Julia TITLE: All Purpose Autumn - Squash Puree DATE: 10/06/2008 09:41:00 PM ----- BODY:

Acorn and butternut squashes are quintessential autumn. Not only are they delicious and nutritious, the burnt orange color beckons the crisp autumn air. My favorite preparation: pureed. In this form it is so versatile:
- Served as a side dish with pork, skate or duck.
- Thickened with parmesan and bread crumbs for a ravioli or cannelloni filling
- Thinned with chicken stock for a soup

Above, I served the squash puree with fried sage, seared skate, port wine sauce and the first of the season arugula and mizuna from the garden. As a soup, this recipe won second place at the locavore banquet last month. And it couldn’t be easier.

Squash puree
1 acorn squash
1 butternut squash
1 tablespoon butter
1 royal gala apple, cored and sliced
1 onion, peeled and sliced
1 teaspoon Madras curry powder
Salt, pepper and lemon juice to taste

1. Slice squash in half from the root to the stem. Put cut side down on a baking sheet with about ½ cup of water. Bake at 375F for 1 hour, or until squash are tender.
2. Meanwhile, heat a skillet over medium heat. Melt the butter and add the apples and onions. Saute until they start to soften and brown, about 5 minutes. Add the curry powder and cook for 2 minutes more.
3. Remove squash from oven, scoop out the seeds and discard. Scoop out the squash flesh and combine with apple/onion mix.
4. Puree in a food processor until smooth. Season to taste with salt, pepper and lemon juice.
5. Adapt as desired.

That Extra Loving Touch:

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----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Melissa DATE:10/07/2008 12:49:00 PM I have never done a puree or soup with squash and I really, really want to this year. Thanks for making it simple, it's very encouraging. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Lydia (The Perfect Pantry) DATE:10/07/2008 09:05:00 PM Love the combination of squash and sage, and I often use my abundant amount of sage in the garden (yes, I know you have lots, too!) as a fried garnish. What a great idea to have a versatile puree like this one on hand -- I'd mix it with some apples to make a soup. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Julia DATE:10/08/2008 06:12:00 AM melissa, you'll have to let me know if you try it!

lydia, I totally agree about the apples. And was I that obvious about the sage? :) ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous Anonymous DATE:10/09/2008 03:50:00 PM I've always scooped the seeds out of the squash before baking, does leaving them in retain moisture? ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Julia DATE:10/10/2008 09:26:00 AM Anon., I've heard that the squash is sweeter when you roast it with the seeds still there. I've never experimented with it, so I don't know this for fact. It definitely holds in more moisture. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous Anonymous DATE:10/10/2008 01:40:00 PM Is frying sage as easy as it sounds? Would you mind providing directions? ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Julia DATE:10/11/2008 05:36:00 PM Anon., Fried Sage is very easy... I fry it in about an inch of canola oil, over medium-high heat just until it turns bright green and translucent. Drain on a paper towel and season with salt. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger PG DATE:10/13/2008 01:55:00 PM I like the squash soup too - I keep walking by the squash in the market thinking that I need to find a good soup recipe. ----- --------