AUTHOR: Julia TITLE: Taramasalta: Greek Mayo? DATE: 2/22/2009 08:40:00 AM ----- BODY:
Don't forget about the giveaway of Even’ Star Organic Farm Seeds. These heirloom seeds are of the highest quality, and are cultivated to yield the most flavorful, hardiest plants. All you need to do is leave a comment on my blog between now and Friday, February 27th at 5pm EST.

Who doesn’t love mayo? I use it in everything, though mostly as a base for something else. I’ll mix it with chipotles to make a dip for corn fritters or with herbs for green goddess salad dressing. Rarely do I just eat it on its own. Which is probably why I like taramsalata so much. It’s essentially mayo that is served with crackers. This Greek dip blends carp roe (fish eggs) with olive oil. Tarama, the actual carp roe, are bright orange and salted. Both the roe and the dip are sold in jars, usually in the cheese case.

The basic technique of making taramasalta is the same as mayonnaise, but the fish eggs are used in place of the chicken eggs. Starting with a spoon of tarama in the food processor, slowly drizzle in olive oil, until it becomes thick and pale orange. The flavor benefits from the addition of raw onions and lots of lemon juice. Most recipes will advise on blending in a slice of water-soaked bread (don’t ask me, I just do as I’m told). And Peter M. suggests also using a touch of smoked onion or liquid smoke. Since he is the authority on Greek food, I accept this as gospel.
Taramasalata
1 slice bread
1 heaping tablespoon tarama
1 1/2 cups oil - all olive oil or a 50-50 blend of olive and canola
1/2 small onion
1/4 cup lemon juice

1. Soak bread in water. Squeeze it out.

2. Put bread and tarama in the basin of a food processor. Turn motor on and let run for 30 seconds.

3. Slowly, slowly drizzle in the oil. When it starts to thicken, add the lemon juice and onions. Continue processing until all the oil is added.

4. Let sit overnight.

5. Serve with crackers or crusty bread.

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----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Heather DATE:2/22/2009 11:08:00 AM mmmm. that sounds delicious and looks beautiful! i've never heard of it before! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous Anonymous DATE:2/22/2009 11:28:00 AM Wow, I've never heard of this, sounds interesting ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Peter M DATE:2/22/2009 11:41:00 AM Julia, I use a dash of liquid smoke (no mention of smoked onion)because some Taramas in Greece have that hint of smoke that I love.

Your tarama looks dreamy and I can't wait to make a batch this upcoming Lent.

Thanks for the link-luv.;) ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous Anonymous DATE:2/22/2009 10:28:00 PM So delicious, and so simple to make. Who knew? ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous Anonymous DATE:2/23/2009 01:16:00 AM I don't like mayo. I know a whole bunch of people who don't touch it, just like me :-) ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Julia DATE:2/23/2009 06:29:00 AM Heather and Cathy, You can also buy it pre-made, though homemade is much better!

Peter, aha! Thanks for the explanation.

Lydia, Indeed... though it still isn't Miracle Whip ;)

Bishop22, I promise I won't make you or any of your friends eat it. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Laurie Constantino DATE:2/24/2009 04:01:00 AM no, no, no on the liquid smoke (sorry Peter) - for me, at least, the dominant flavor of liquid smoke would overwhelm the tarama. then again, i've never tried it so maybe peter's right that it would be good! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Julia DATE:2/24/2009 06:39:00 AM Laurie, even before you posted your comment, I was thinking about the smoky tasting tarama. It reminds me of bonito - the dried tuna that's served shaved on so many Japanese dishes. To me, that also tastes smoky. I wonder if it's something in the drying/curing process. Any thoughts? ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous Anonymous DATE:2/24/2009 07:35:00 AM i've gotta say, i often pass that exact glass jar of tarama and now i may just have to pick one up. i love the idea of this as a "dip". i'm also thinking of other ways to use it as a topping for something. are the fish eggs very salty and very fishy or very fishy? ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Julia DATE:3/01/2009 01:08:00 PM WANF -- the eggs are definitely salty but not fishy. Briny maybe. ----- -------- AUTHOR: Julia TITLE: Reduce, Reuse, Recycle: Black Bean Dip DATE: 12/16/2008 09:48:00 AM ----- BODY:
It was only in the past few months, as I’ve been reading about sustainability and participating in the Cambridge Recycling Committee, that I finally understood the dictum, “Reduce, Reuse, Recycle.” You can see it on grocery bags at Whole Foods, or any sort of green initiative. Reuse and recycle are obvious – for example, the plastic water bottle you purchased – reuse it by refilling it with filtered water, instead of purchasing a new bottle, and when you are done with it, recycle it. People often justify wasteful behavior by explaining that they will recycle. “Yes, I took more paper napkins than I need, but I will recycle them, so it’s okay.” Reduce was a harder concept for me to grasp. Reduce means only taking as many paper napkins as you need. Sure, it’s great that you’ll recycle, but we must also consider the energy expended and the chemicals used to create the napkins – the tree that was cut down, the plant that processed the paper and packaged it, the truck that shipped the napkin to the supermarket, etc.

When it comes to food and entertaining, the mantra would be “Reduce, Reuse, Recycle, Compost.” With cooking, I find it much more challenging to reduce. In terms of shopping, the stores often dictate the quantities I purchase: I must buy a 1 cup container of sour cream, even though I will only use 2 tablespoons. I’ll admit it’s getting better: I can now buy chicken broth in one cup packages instead of one quart. Most grains are sold in bulk bins. Even celery is sold by the stalk. Most challenging is gauging what quantity to prepare for dinner parties, especially buffets.

So it happened when Dina and I hosted Mole cannoli – a feast of two of our favorite foods. The final guest count was a moving target – between the quest for finding a babysitter or the new boyfriend we didn’t realize would be coming. And we wanted a nice variety of moles, salads and garnishes. Needless to say, we did not do a very good job of reducing – there were ample leftovers. The best I could do was reuse and recycle. We ate leftovers for a few days, and the excess of black beans and mole sauces went into the freezer.

Last week, inspired by Lydia’s black bean dip post, I pulled the black beans out of the freezer. I intended to make the dip for a friend’s party, but as I set out to make the recipe, I realized I didn’t have most of the ingredients on hand. But! I did have ½ cup of leftover green mole from that same evening that generated the black beans. I pureed the two together and, Voila! Black Bean dip. (P.S. The sour cream on top was leftover from another dinner the previous week)

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----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous Anonymous DATE:12/17/2008 12:05:00 AM ...and sometimes it's very expensive to buy the smaller quantity. Meal planning has to be carefully planned to use up larger sized ingredients...but that can also be fun! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous Anonymous DATE:12/17/2008 01:21:00 AM I'm becoming quite adept at reusing -- today's effort, which also involved black beans (I love them!) was leftover bean and sweet potato stew combined with some chopped onion and roasted butternut squash, cooked down with orange juice and pureed into soup. Now if only I could get my photos to look as appetizing as the soup tasted... ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous Anonymous DATE:12/17/2008 08:45:00 AM I'd say that "Reduce, Reuse, Recycle" is stated in order of preference. If you don't use it in the first place, that's best. If you used it, then REusing it is better (cheaper and more environmentally sound) than recycling, which is sometimes nearly as expensive and dirty as making a new one. In fact, I knew a guy who insisted that recycling paper was actually dirtier and more expensive than making new paper.

And while I'm soapboxing, I think you should consider locavorism a form of "reduce" -- you don't reduce the *amount* of food necessarily, but you reduce the total cost and environmental footprint by *reducing* food miles. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger PG DATE:12/17/2008 05:48:00 PM Good post. I get quite frustrated with non-rsvping habits these days, but I won't go on about that.

Even better for water is drinking from the tap. Buy a bottle (e.g., Nalgene, metal container, etc.) and drink from the tap. I can't wait to start composting. At the moment, my apartment living makes all options unrealistic. But, as soon as I get a backyard, I'm going to buy a composter. I can just imagine how much garbage that would cut down. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Dewi DATE:12/18/2008 10:05:00 AM Black bean dip sounds really delicious.

I like the concept of reduce,reuse, and recycle. And this will be a great give for our future generation. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Julia DATE:12/18/2008 01:02:00 PM Noble Pig, indeed it's a carefully woven plan.

Lydia, I certainly know that challenge, and your soup does sound delicious!

limeduck, I like the notion of reducing food miles. Good point.

Pyschgrad, Good reminder about *reducing* the number of water bottles we use.

Elra, exactly! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous Anonymous DATE:12/18/2008 09:57:00 PM I love black beans so much! What a great idea to be creative with this one. ----- -------- AUTHOR: Julia TITLE: Guacamole DATE: 11/01/2008 10:26:00 PM ----- BODY:
The strangest thing happened at the market the other day: I found perfectly ripe avocados! Lots of them! And they weren’t bruised or overripe.

Purchasing avocados can be a dicey proposition at best. I typically plan my shopping so that I purchase avocados 4 days before I need them. I buy them obviously under-ripe and leave them on my counter at home to gently ripen. Too often, “ripe” avocados at the market are mushy from other shoppers pressing them to test for ripeness. After several days of this, the avocados aren’t so much ripe as they are bruised. With guests coming for cocktails that night, I instantly filled my basket with 3 of them to make guacamole.

This was an unexpected addition to my Italian themed menu. With that in mind, I made the guacamole with a European accent… seasoning with basil and lemon instead of the typical cilantro and lime. For texture and a nuanced flavor, I added finely diced celery and scallions.

3 avocadoes
3 tbs. finely diced celery
¼ cup chopped basil
3 scallions, cut into rounds
1 tbs. lemon juice
1 large tomato, diced
Salt and pepper to taste

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----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Lydia (The Perfect Pantry) DATE:11/02/2008 12:56:00 AM I make all of my guacamole in my lava rock molcajete that I lugged back from Guadalajara many years ago. It's a rare three-headed grinder, and I believe that's why it makes the best guac! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous Anonymous DATE:11/03/2008 06:59:00 PM very interesting and creative twist on guac. it's one of my favorite things on earth to eat, so it's hard to imagine it without my beloved cilantro and lime!

but you are SO right about having to plan your avocado-based meal days before. I just did that today! I guess I'll have to wait till Thursday to enjoy it. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Melissa DATE:11/05/2008 07:07:00 PM You know, it never occurred to me that other shoppers were mushing up my avocados. Huh.

Like WANF said, this is an interesting and tasty spin on guacamole. Very nice. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Julia DATE:11/07/2008 09:07:00 AM Lydia, We should do a taste test sometime with your molcajete and plain ole mashed guacamole.

WANF, How was your guac?

Melissa, When I finally realized the secret to good avocados, it changed my world! ----- -------- AUTHOR: Julia TITLE: Spicy Mayo DATE: 10/29/2008 01:15:00 PM ----- BODY:

When I make sushi at home, I usually shop at the Kotobukiya Market. The fish is reliably fresh and the selection is great. The problem is, when I decide to make sushi, I’m usually already hungry, so I need a little snack. They have little rice balls with savory toppings wrapped in seaweed. For $1.50, it’s a great tie-me-over. Toppings include: miso, spicy tuna, nuto, and salmon. After trying them all, I decided I like the tuna best.

So much so, that I’ll make it at home for myself all the time as a go-to lunch. Maybe it sounds strange to serve tuna salad with rice, but think about a spicy tuna maki roll.

Spicy Mayonnaise
1 teaspoon Lan Chi chili-garlic paste (more or less, to taste)
2 tablespoons Hellman’s (sorry, Lydia… no Miracle Whip here)

Mix the spicy mayo with drained, canned tuna. Serve over steamed rice with nori sheets.

The Spicy Mayo also makes a great rub for grilled corn.

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----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Lydia (The Perfect Pantry) DATE:10/29/2008 03:46:00 PM Ah, but you are using my very favorite chili paste with garlic! I'm never without two or three jars in my pantry. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger giz DATE:10/31/2008 10:48:00 AM Why haven't I seen this chili paste? I love the spicy mayo idea - I could use it as a whole sandwich filling - hold the rest :). I think I'll try this with the Korean paste I usually use and maybe add some garlic. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Julia DATE:10/31/2008 03:38:00 PM Lydia, I knew we could find common ground!

Giz, Sounds like a great alternative. I'm thinking of just making a big batch of chili mayo and keeping it in the fridge. ----- -------- AUTHOR: Julia TITLE: More Adventures in Smoking: Bluefish DATE: 10/11/2008 02:45:00 PM ----- BODY:

There are several truths in my culinary world: everything fried tastes better and everything smoked tastes better. Obviously, there are exceptions to the rule – thinking about all the fresh vegetables coming out of the garden and about that smoked oil.

Bluefish fits perfectly into that rule. Some people enjoy it fresh, but with a strong, oily flavor it’s better suited to smoking and more universally liked that way. I love having little snacks in the fridge for when unexpected guests come over, and smoked bluefish is a great option. Whole Foods sells smoked bluefish pâté but I was wholly disappointed to discover it contains high fructose corn syrup. The only solution is to make my own.

Smoked Bluefish Pâté
To smoke bluefish: Season ½ pound filet with salt, pepper and a little sugar. Start a charcoal fire on the grill. Meanwhile, soak wood chips in water. When charcoal fire starts to fade, prepare to smoke and move quickly: Drain wood chips and toss on top of the embers. Replace the grate on top of the grill and put the bluefish on the grate… away from the fire. Close the grill and the vents on top – leave the vents on the bottom open. Let fish smoke for 30 minutes or more.

In a food processor fitted with a plastic blade, combine bluefish with 4 ounces cream cheese, 1 tablespoon brandy, 1 teaspoon lemon juice, salt and black pepper. Pulse to combine. Stir in chopped scallions. Serve with crackers.

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----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Lydia (The Perfect Pantry) DATE:10/12/2008 07:05:00 AM My first taste of smoked bluefish pate was from Legal Seafoods, soon after we moved to Boston 30 years ago. I found it completely addictive, and we used to buy it at their fish market all the time. I haven't had it for years, but now I'm craving... ----- -------- AUTHOR: Julia TITLE: All Purpose Summer DATE: 8/04/2008 09:20:00 AM ----- BODY:
I always have a stash of Green Goddess in the fridge. It’s a terrific, all-purpose summer (and really, anytime) condiment:

- a salad dressing with cherry tomatoes, romaine and cucumbers
- a sauce for grilled salmon.
- A sauce for grilled steak
- With corn cakes, cherry tomatoes and soft shell crabs.
- A dressing for pasta salad with lobster and corn.
- A dip for crudités
- Instead of ketchup for hamburgers
- A dressing for Cobb salad with bacon, avocadoes, grilled chicken and lettuce.
- A spread for smoked salmon canapés.



Now that my garden is in full force, I have plenty of parsley, tarragon and scallions. If I had lettuces, I would add arugula or spinach, too.

>Dreamy Green Goddess
1 tbs. capers
1 cup spinach or arugula, washed and picked over
2 bunches scallions, washed, slice green only in 1/2 inch lengths
1 bunch flat parsley, washed, leaves picked from the stem
1 bunch tarragon leaves picked from the stem
1/2 cup sour cream
2 cup mayonnaise
2 tbs. white wine vinegar
2 tsp. kosher salt
1 tsp. cracked black pepper

1. Puree capers, spinach, scallions, herbs, and sour cream in a food processor
2. Fold in mayonnaise, and season with vinegar, salt and pepper

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----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Lydia (The Perfect Pantry) DATE:8/05/2008 06:08:00 AM I know it's not quite the same, but because I don't eat raw onions, I always either saute the scallions or (gasp!) leave them out. This is a great all-purpose dressing for all those summer vegetable salads. ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Julia DATE:8/05/2008 08:24:00 AM Lydia, I don't like raw onions either, but scallions don't seem to bother me. To me, the tarragon is the essential part. ----- -------- AUTHOR: Julia TITLE: Digging for Gold DATE: 7/16/2008 12:06:00 PM ----- BODY:
I love experimenting with Asian cuisine, especially Chinese recipes. I try to keep my pantry stocked with all sorts of spices and condiments so that when the mood strikes, I’m prepared to follow any direction. Friends have often commented that my refrigerator looks like it belongs to a Chinese grandmother and not a Jewish thirty-something. In the summer, my “pantry” is further supplied by growing scallions, cilantro and ginger in my garden. Yes, ginger.

We’ve all experienced this… we go to the market and buy a knob of ginger knowing that we only need an inch of it for any given recipe. The rest gets buried in the bottom of the vegetable crisper. And while it’s not so much waste that we should feel guilty, we still hope to use it up before it turns shriveled and mold. Some have suggested freezing ginger, but this sufficiently alters the composition that when eventually cooking with it, the aromas are a little more difficult to coax out.

During the summer, the best storage method is in the ground. I take a regular, ole supermarket hand of ginger and bury it in the garden. Invariably, I forget the exact location. The next time a recipe calls for ginger, I forage in the dirt until I find it. Fortunately, after a few weeks, the ginger as it continues to grow, shoots out sprouts to announce its location. After I break off what I need, I re-bury it in the ground again. This resilient rhizome continues to grow despite the multiple disruptions.

You can see the sprouts are attached to young ginger. The skin is thinner than "older" ginger, the flavor is more mild and the ginger itself is less fiberous.


A note of caution: One winter, I experimented with growing ginger in a pot indoors, and leaving a hand outside, buried. The ginger inside turned mushy, fiberous and hollow: a disaster. The wintered-over ginger was equally disastrous. If you've had success growing ginger in the winter in a snowy climate, I'd love to hear about it.

For more insight on fresh ginger, visit Lydia's blogs: The Perfect Pantry and Nine Cooks.

Thanks, Lydia, for taking great photos!

Peanut Dipping Sauce

This is great for an Asian style crudités or Chicken Satay.

5 tbs. fresh ginger, chopped
3 tbs. lemon grass, chopped
3 tbs. garlic, chopped
3 tbs. shallots, chopped
1 tbs peanut oil
chicken stock
10 oz. raw peanuts, toasted
1 tbs. mirin
½ lime, juiced
2 tbs. rice wine vinegar
3 tbs. soy sauce
2 tbs fresh cilantro chopped

1. Sweat 3 tbs. of ginger with lemon grass, garlic and shallots in peanut oil

2. Puree above in a food processor with peanuts, remaining ginger, and chicken stock to thin.

3. Season with lime juice, rice vinegar, mirin and soy sauce. Adjust seasoning to taste.

4. Stir in fresh cilantro

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----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Lydia (The Perfect Pantry) DATE:7/16/2008 04:23:00 PM Thanks for showing me your ginger technique -- I've shared this with many gardening friends, and I suspect there will be a run on "hands" of ginger at our local Whole Foods this week! ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Anonymous Anonymous DATE:7/16/2008 09:57:00 PM Clearly you're not using ginger daily ;) ----- COMMENT: AUTHOR:Blogger Julia DATE:7/18/2008 08:06:00 AM Lydia, have you planted the ginger yet? I've been told that they get a beautiful bloom too.

Bishop22, tis true. I'm not cooking anything daily. I would probably still plant ginger because it regenerates itself. ----- --------